PLUMA INC
S-1/A, 1997-02-05
KNIT OUTERWEAR MILLS
Previous: DEFINED ASSET FDS GOVT SEC INC FD MON PYMT U S TREAS SER 5, 497, 1997-02-05
Next: SEAFIELD CAPITAL CORP, 8-K, 1997-02-05




<PAGE>
   
    AS FILED WITH THE SECURITIES AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION ON FEBRUARY 5, 1997
    
                                                      REGISTRATION NO. 333-18755
                       SECURITIES AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION
                              WASHINGTON, DC 20549
   
                                AMENDMENT NO. 1
                                       TO
    
                                    FORM S-1
 
                             REGISTRATION STATEMENT
                                     UNDER
                           THE SECURITIES ACT OF 1933
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
             (Exact name of Registrant as specified in its charter)
 
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
<S>                                   <C>                               <C>
          NORTH CAROLINA                           2253                       56-1541893
   (State or other jurisdiction        (Primary Standard Industrial        (I.R.S. employer
of incorporation or organization)      Classification Code Number)      identification number)
</TABLE>
 
                              801 FIELDCREST ROAD
                                 EDEN, NC 27288
                                 (910) 635-4000
         (Address, including zip code, and telephone number, including
            area code, of Registrant's principal executive offices)
                             FORREST H. TRUITT, II
                                  PLUMA, INC.
                              801 FIELDCREST ROAD
                                 EDEN, NC 27288
                                 (910) 635-4000
 (Name, address, including zip code, and telephone number, including area code,
                             of agent for service)
                                    COPIES TO:
 
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
<S>                                     <C>                                      <C>
      THOMAS T. CRUMPLER, ESQ.               ZEB E. BARNHARDT, JR., ESQ.          JAMES D. PHYFE, ESQ.
ALLMAN SPRY LEGGETT & CRUMPLER, P.A.    WOMBLE CARLYLE SANDRIDGE & RICE, PLLC    DAVIS POLK & WARDWELL
   380 KNOLLWOOD STREET, SUITE 700            1600 BB&T FINANCIAL CENTER          450 LEXINGTON AVENUE
       WINSTON-SALEM, NC 27103                   200 W. SECOND STREET              NEW YORK, NY 10017
         TEL: (910) 722-2300                   WINSTON-SALEM, NC 27101            TEL: (212) 450-4000
                                                 TEL: (910) 721-3505
</TABLE>
 
        APPROXIMATE DATE OF COMMENCEMENT OF PROPOSED SALE TO THE PUBLIC:
As soon as practicable after the effective date of this Registration Statement.
    If any of the securities being registered on this Form are to be offered on
a delayed or continuous basis pursuant to Rule 415 under the Securities Act of
1933, check the following box. [ ]
    If this Form is filed to register additional securities for an offering
pursuant to Rule 462(b) under the Securities Act, please check the following box
and list the Securities Act registration statement number of the earlier
effective registration statement for the same offering. [ ]__________
    If this Form is a post-effective amendment filed pursuant to Rule 462(c)
under the Securities Act, check the following box
and list the Securities Act registration statement number of the earlier
effective registration statement for the same
offering. [ ]___________
    If delivery of the prospectus is expected to be made pursuant to Rule 434,
please check the following box. [ ]
                       CALCULATION OF REGISTRATION FEE
 

   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
      TITLE OF CLASS OF                                       PROPOSED MAXIMUM          PROPOSED MAXIMUM
       SECURITIES TO BE               AMOUNT TO BE             OFFERING PRICE       AGGREGATE OFFERING PRICE
          REGISTERED                   REGISTERED                PER SHARE                    (1)
<S>                             <C>                       <C>                       <C>
Common Stock,
  no par value..............           3,565,000                   $14.00                 $49,910,000
 
<CAPTION>
      TITLE OF CLASS OF
       SECURITIES TO BE                AMOUNT OF
          REGISTERED              REGISTRATION FEE (2)
<S>                             <C>
Common Stock,
  no par value..............            $15,124
</TABLE>
    
 
(1) Estimated solely for the purpose of computing the registration fee.
   
(2) Calculated pursuant to Rule 457 promulgated under the Securities Act of
    1933.
    
    THE REGISTRANT HEREBY AMENDS THIS REGISTRATION STATEMENT ON SUCH DATE OR
DATES AS MAY BE NECESSARY TO DELAY ITS EFFECTIVE DATE UNTIL THE REGISTRANT SHALL
FILE A FURTHER AMENDMENT WHICH SPECIFICALLY STATES THAT THIS REGISTRATION
STATEMENT SHALL THEREAFTER BECOME EFFECTIVE IN ACCORDANCE WITH SECTION 8(A) OF
THE SECURITIES ACT OF 1933 OR UNTIL THE REGISTRATION STATEMENT SHALL BECOME
EFFECTIVE ON SUCH DATE AS THE COMMISSION, ACTING PURSUANT TO SAID SECTION 8(A),
MAY DETERMINE.
 
<PAGE>

(Redherring appears on the left side of page rotated. The language is 
as followed.)

INFORMATION CONTAINED HEREIN IS SUBJECT TO COMPLETION OR AMENDMENT. A
REGISTRATION STATEMENT RELATING TO THESE SECURITIES HAS BEEN FILED WITH THE
SECURITIES AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION. THESE SECURITIES MAY NOT BE SOLD NOR MAY
OFFERS TO BUY BE ACCEPTED PRIOR TO THE TIME THE REGISTRATION STATEMENT BECOMES
EFFECTIVE. THIS PROSPECTUS SHALL NOT CONSTITUTE AN OFFER TO SELL OR THE
SOLICITATION OF AN OFFER TO BUY NOR SHALL THERE BE ANY SALE OF THESE SECURITIES
IN ANY STATE IN WHICH SUCH OFFER, SOLICITATION OR SALE WOULD BE UNLAWFUL PRIOR
TO REGISTRATION OR QUALIFICATION UNDER THE SECURITIES LAWS OF ANY SUCH STATE.
 
   
PROSPECTUS                   SUBJECT TO COMPLETION
                             DATED FEBRUARY 5, 1997
    
   
3,100,000 SHARES
    
 
(Pluma Logo)

COMMON STOCK
(NO PAR VALUE)
 
   
Of the 3,100,000 shares of the Company's Common Stock (the "Common Stock")
offered hereby (the "Offering"), 2,500,000 shares are being issued and sold by
Pluma, Inc., a North Carolina corporation (the "Company" or "Pluma"), and
600,000 shares are being sold by certain of the Company's shareholders named
herein (the "Selling Shareholders"). The Company will not receive any of the
proceeds from the shares of Common Stock sold by the Selling Shareholders.
Following the Offering, certain officers and the directors of the Company will
own approximately 39.1% of the outstanding shares of Common Stock.
    
 
   
Prior to this Offering, there has been no public market for the Common Stock. It
is currently anticipated that the initial public offering price will be between
$12.00 and $14.00 per share. See "Underwriting" for information relating to the
factors to be considered in determining the initial public offering price of the
Common Stock.
    
 
   
Application has been made for listing of the Common Stock on the New York Stock
Exchange under the symbol "PLM."
    
 
SEE "RISK FACTORS" BEGINNING ON PAGE 8 FOR INFORMATION THAT SHOULD BE CONSIDERED
BY PROSPECTIVE INVESTORS.
 
THESE SECURITIES HAVE NOT BEEN APPROVED OR DISAPPROVED BY THE SECURITIES AND
EXCHANGE COMMISSION OR ANY STATE SECURITIES COMMISSION NOR HAS THE SECURITIES
AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION OR ANY STATE SECURITIES COMMISSION PASSED UPON THE
ACCURACY OR ADEQUACY OF THIS PROSPECTUS. ANY REPRESENTATION TO THE CONTRARY IS A
CRIMINAL OFFENSE.
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
<S>                             <C>                       <C>                       <C>
                                PRICE TO                  UNDERWRITING              PROCEEDS TO
                                PUBLIC                    DISCOUNT (1)              COMPANY (2)
Per Share                       $                         $                         $
Total (3)                       $                         $                         $
 
<CAPTION>
                                PROCEEDS TO
                                SELLING SHAREHOLDERS
Per Share                       $
Total (3)                       $
</TABLE>
 
   
(1) The Company and the Selling Shareholders have agreed to indemnify the
several Underwriters against certain liabilities, including liabilities under
the Securities Act of 1933, as amended. See "Underwriting."
(2) Before deducting expenses of the Offering payable by the Company estimated
at $860,000.
(3) The Company has granted an option to the Underwriters, exercisable within 30
days from the date of this Prospectus, to purchase up to 465,000 additional
shares of Common Stock on the same terms and conditions as set forth above,
solely to cover over-allotments, if any. If such option is exercised in full,
the total Price to Public, Underwriting Discount, Proceeds to Company and
Proceeds to Selling Shareholders will be $       , $       , $       and
$       , respectively. See "Underwriting."
    
 
   
The shares of Common Stock being offered by this Prospectus are offered by the
Underwriters, subject to prior sale, when, as and if delivered to and accepted
by the Underwriters, and subject to approval of certain legal matters by Davis
Polk & Wardwell, counsel for the Underwriters. It is expected that delivery of
the shares of Common Stock offered hereby will be made against payment therefor
on or about         , 1997, at the offices of J.P. Morgan Securities Inc., 60
Wall Street, New York, New York.
    
 
J.P. MORGAN & CO.
                  INTERSTATE/JOHNSON LANE
                             CORPORATION
                                                  WHEAT FIRST BUTCHER SINGER
 
   
         , 1997
    
 
<PAGE>

Front Inside Page

[A close-up photograph of the Company's "PLUMA" label which is sewn into 
a garment.]

Text reads as follows:

(label) Pluma, Made In U.S.A., Heavyweight Cotton, Pre-Shrunk, 100% Cotton,
        L, Care Over

        PLUMA
<PAGE>
Inside Fold-Out

[Photographs of various styles of the Company's products bordered by 
photographs of the Company's customer labels.]

Text includes label names including Starter, adidas, Guess, Santee, Reebok, 
Ruff Hewn, Anchor Blue, Hard Rock, Snowbank, Arizona, PM Sports, Busch 
Gardens, Galt Sand, Oarsman and designs on shirts bearing many of the same 
names in addition to Seattle Sea Hawks, Terps Maryland, The University of 
Alabama, Kansas City Chiefs, Nittany Lions, Wildlife, Grand Ole Opry.

<PAGE>
                                [artwork to come]
 
   
IN CONNECTION WITH THIS OFFERING, THE UNDERWRITERS MAY OVER-ALLOT OR EFFECT
TRANSACTIONS WHICH STABILIZE OR MAINTAIN THE MARKET PRICE OF THE COMMON STOCK AT
A LEVEL ABOVE THAT WHICH MIGHT OTHERWISE PREVAIL IN THE OPEN MARKET. SUCH
TRANSACTIONS MAY BE EFFECTED ON THE NEW YORK STOCK EXCHANGE, IN THE
OVER-THE-COUNTER MARKET OR OTHERWISE. SUCH STABILIZING, IF COMMENCED, MAY BE
DISCONTINUED AT ANY TIME.
    
 
                                       2
 
<PAGE>
No person is authorized to give any information or to make any representations
not contained in this Prospectus and, if given or made, such information or
representations must not be relied upon as having been authorized by the
Company, any Selling Shareholder or any Underwriter. This Prospectus does not
constitute an offer to sell, or a solicitation of an offer to buy, the Common
Stock in any jurisdiction to any person to whom it is unlawful to make such
offer or solicitation. Neither the delivery of this Prospectus nor any sale made
hereunder shall, under any circumstances, create any implication that there has
been no change in the affairs of the Company or any Selling Shareholder since
the date hereof or that information contained herein is correct as of any time
subsequent to the date hereof.
 
                               TABLE OF CONTENTS
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                         PAGE
 
<S>                                                      <C>
Prospectus Summary....................................     4
 
Risk Factors..........................................     8
 
Use of Proceeds.......................................    12
 
Dividend Policy.......................................    12
 
Dilution..............................................    13
 
Capitalization........................................    14
 
Selected Financial and Operating Data.................    15
 
Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial
  Condition and Results of Operations.................    17
 
Business..............................................    21
 
Management............................................    29
</TABLE>
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                         PAGE
 
<S>                                                      <C>
Certain Relationships and Related Transactions........    38
 
Principal Shareholders................................    40
 
Selling Shareholders..................................    42
 
Description of Capital Stock..........................    44
 
Shares Eligible for Future Sale.......................    47
 
Underwriting..........................................    48
 
Legal Matters.........................................    49
 
Experts...............................................    49
 
Available Information.................................    49
 
Index to Financial Statements.........................   F-1
</TABLE>
    
 
   
UNTIL                , 1997 (25 DAYS AFTER THE DATE OF THIS PROSPECTUS), ALL
DEALERS EFFECTING TRANSACTIONS IN THE COMMON STOCK, WHETHER OR NOT PARTICIPATING
IN THIS DISTRIBUTION, MAY BE REQUIRED TO DELIVER A PROSPECTUS. THIS IS IN
ADDITION TO THE OBLIGATION OF DEALERS TO DELIVER A PROSPECTUS WHEN ACTING AS
UNDERWRITERS AND WITH RESPECT TO THEIR UNSOLD ALLOTMENTS OR SUBSCRIPTIONS.
    
 
   
The Company intends to furnish its shareholders with annual reports containing
audited financial statements certified by an independent public accounting firm
and with quarterly reports containing unaudited financial information for the
first three quarters of each fiscal year.
    
 
                                       3
 
<PAGE>
                               PROSPECTUS SUMMARY
 
   
THE FOLLOWING SUMMARY IS QUALIFIED IN ITS ENTIRETY BY, AND SHOULD BE READ IN
CONJUNCTION WITH, THE MORE DETAILED INFORMATION AND FINANCIAL STATEMENTS,
INCLUDING THE NOTES THERETO, APPEARING ELSEWHERE IN THIS PROSPECTUS. EXCEPT AS
SET FORTH IN THE FINANCIAL STATEMENTS OR OTHERWISE NOTED HEREIN, THE INFORMATION
IN THIS PROSPECTUS ASSUMES THAT THERE WILL BE NO EXERCISE OF THE UNDERWRITERS'
OVER-ALLOTMENT OPTION AND CERTAIN STOCK OPTIONS HELD BY EMPLOYEES AND DIRECTORS
OF THE COMPANY. ALSO, UNLESS OTHERWISE INDICATED HEREIN, ALL INFORMATION WITH
REGARD TO THE CAPITAL STOCK OF THE COMPANY, INCLUDING SHARE AND PER SHARE DATA
AND DIVIDENDS, HAS BEEN RESTATED TO REFLECT ALL STOCK SPLITS THAT OCCURRED PRIOR
TO THE DATE OF THIS PROSPECTUS INCLUDING A 0.736 FOR 1 REVERSE STOCK SPLIT
RECOMMENDED BY THE COMPANY'S BOARD OF DIRECTORS ON JANUARY 28, 1997.
    
 
                                  THE COMPANY
 
   
Pluma is a vertically integrated manufacturer of high quality fleece and jersey
activewear and as a result, is directly involved in all of the manufacturing
processes from knitting to the packaging and distribution of products. The
Company is focused on increasing sales and profitability by offering high value
products to a diverse customer base. Pluma sells its products to companies such
as adidas, Nike, Starter and Walt Disney. In addition, the Company sells
products under its own "Pluma," "SANTEE" and "SNOWBANK" brand names to retail
and wholesale customers such as Sam's Club and Frank L. Robinson Company.
    
 
   
Since its incorporation in 1986, Pluma has been an innovator of new products and
styles and has focused on delivering higher quality products. The Company was
one of the first to introduce heavyweight, fuller cut fleece products at
competitive price points and heavyweight cotton jersey products suitable for
outerwear. Today, the Company continues to innovate and recently introduced
pique fleece, 100% cotton fleece and cotton/SpandexTM five-way stretch fleece.
In addition, the Company believes its ability to collaborate with customers in
developing new styles provides a distinct competitive advantage. As a result of
Pluma's flexible manufacturing capabilities, customers often select the Company
as their "manufacturer of choice" for its ability to develop specialized
products that meet customers' cost, quality and delivery criteria.
    
 
The Company competes in the growing $37.6 billion retail activewear sector of
the apparel industry. The industry's growth is attributable to several factors.
First, the trends toward increased physical fitness and the "casualization of
America" have resulted in increased acceptance of fleece and jersey apparel as
daily attire. Second, the versatility of fleece and jersey fabric, coupled with
technological advances in product development and manufacturing, has
significantly improved product design and quality, resulting in increased
consumer demand. Finally, basic styles of fleece and jersey activewear are not
primarily driven by fashion trends or fads, contributing to the stability of
product demand.
 
The Company believes that its business strategy positions it to capitalize on
the growth of the activewear sector. The principal elements of this strategy
are:
 
PRODUCING HIGH QUALITY PRODUCTS
 
   
Pluma is recognized as a manufacturer of high quality products across all of its
price points by today's value-conscious customers. Pluma's fleece and jersey
activewear meet consumer preferences for heavier weights and higher cotton
content. In addition, Pluma's emphasis on quality is demonstrated throughout its
design and manufacturing processes.
    
 
INCREASING SALES THROUGH A DIVERSE CUSTOMER BASE
 
   
Pluma targets a diverse customer base across multiple markets and distribution
channels. Currently, Pluma's significant customers include branded customers
such as adidas, Nike, Reebok and Starter, retailers such as Miller's Outpost and
Sam's Club and entertainment customers such as Busch Gardens, Hard Rock Cafe and
Walt Disney. In addition, the Company sells to wholesale distributors,
screenprinters and embroiderers who sell the Company's products to other
customers. The Company's diverse customer base provides product exposure to many
consumer markets and enables Pluma to balance its production more evenly
throughout the year, thereby improving sales and profitability. See
"Business -- Customers."
    
 
DEVELOPING NEW PRODUCTS AND STYLES
 
   
Pluma has been an innovator of new products of various fabric weights and
blends, as well as unique styles, that are often designed exclusively for its
customers to meet their individual needs. Typically, new products and styles
command higher prices resulting in better margins. New products manufactured for
one customer frequently become popular with other customers. In
    
 
                                       4
 
<PAGE>
addition, the ability to customize new product styles that meet stringent
customer standards enables the Company not only to attract new customers but
also to cross-sell its more basic products.
 
CAPITALIZING ON FLEXIBLE MANUFACTURING CAPABILITIES
 
Using proprietary equipment and advanced manufacturing processes, Pluma has the
flexibility to shift its knitting, dyeing and sewing operations between various
fabric weights, blends and styles, as well as between fleece and jersey, with
minimal downtime. These capabilities allow Pluma to service effectively and
efficiently its diverse customer base.
 
INVESTING IN ADVANCED TECHNOLOGIES
 
The Company continues to upgrade its manufacturing, distribution and management
information systems as proven cost and quality related advances become
available. The Company has made significant investments to improve efficiencies
throughout its manufacturing processes including knitting, dyeing, cutting,
sewing and distribution. As a result, Pluma believes that its manufacturing and
distribution processes are among the most modern in the industry. In addition,
the Company is in the process of implementing a new management information
system to enhance the timing and accuracy of its controls.
 
Pluma is a North Carolina corporation, incorporated on December 1, 1986. The
principal executive offices of the Company are located at 801 Fieldcrest Road,
Eden, North Carolina 27288, and its telephone number is (910) 635-4000.
 
                                  RISK FACTORS
 
   
An investment in the Common Stock also involves certain risks associated with
the Company's business including the following: (i) fluctuations in apparel
retail demand; (ii) impact of seasonality; (iii) competition; (iv) concentration
of customers; (v) dependence on customer financial stability; (vi) availability
and price of raw materials; (vii) financial leverage and (viii) restrictions
imposed on the Company by its revolving credit facility. For a more complete
discussion of these and other risk factors, see "Risk Factors."
    
 
                                  THE OFFERING
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
<S>                                                           <C>
COMMON STOCK OFFERED (1):
    By the Company..........................................  2,500,000 shares
    By the Selling Shareholders.............................  600,000 shares
TOTAL OFFERING..............................................  3,100,000 shares
COMMON STOCK OUTSTANDING AFTER THE
  OFFERING (1)(2)...........................................  7,815,797 shares
USE OF PROCEEDS TO THE COMPANY..............................  To repay indebtedness. See "Use of Proceeds."
DIVIDEND POLICY.............................................  The Company does not expect that a dividend will be paid in the
                                                              foreseeable future. See "Dividend Policy."
PROPOSED NEW YORK STOCK EXCHANGE SYMBOL.....................  "PLM"
</TABLE>
    
 
   
(1) Assumes the Underwriters' over-allotment option for up to 465,000 shares of
Common Stock is not exercised. See "Underwriting."
    
 
   
(2) Excludes an aggregate of 382,720 shares of Common Stock issuable upon the
exercise of stock options as of the date hereof, at a purchase price of $13.077
per share, granted to certain Company employees and directors pursuant to the
Company's 1995 Stock Option Plan, as defined elsewhere in this Prospectus. See
"Management -- Stock Option Plan."
    
 
                                       5
 
<PAGE>
                             SUMMARY FINANCIAL DATA
 
   
Statement of Operations Data for each of the years in the three-year period
ended December 31, 1996, and the Balance Sheet Data as of December 31, 1996 and
1995 set forth below have been derived from the Company's audited financial
statements included elsewhere in this Prospectus. The Statement of Operations
Data for each of the years in the two-year period ended December 31, 1993, and
the Balance Sheet Data as of December 31, 1994, 1993 and 1992 are derived from
the Company's audited financial statements which are not included in this
Prospectus.
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                        YEARS ENDED DECEMBER 31,
IN THOUSANDS, EXCEPT PER SHARE DATA                                  1996(1)(7)       1995(1)(2)(3)       1994       1993       1992
<S>                                                                  <C>          <C>                  <C>        <C>        <C>
STATEMENT OF OPERATIONS DATA:
Net sales                                                            $127,820     $        100,710     $97,908    $86,645    $83,569
Gross profit                                                           21,573               19,281      16,499     13,883     14,148
Income from operations                                                 12,424                4,896       9,199      7,628      8,360
Income before income taxes and cumulative effect of accounting
  change                                                                9,173                1,766       6,944      5,995      7,586
Income before cumulative effect of accounting change                    5,818                1,107       4,350      3,793      4,791
Net income                                                           $  5,818     $          1,107     $ 4,350    $ 3,867(4) $ 4,791
Earnings per common share and common equivalent -- primary and
  fully diluted:
  Income before cumulative effect of accounting change               $   1.09     $            .21     $   .83    $   .69    $   .87
  Net income                                                         $   1.09     $            .21     $   .83    $   .70    $   .87
  Supplemental (5)                                                   $   1.33
Weighted average number of shares outstanding                           5,316                5,316       5,244      5,492      5,537
</TABLE>
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                         AS OF DECEMBER 31,
IN THOUSANDS                                                                  1996        1995       1994       1993       1992
<S>                                                       <C>        <C>               <C>        <C>        <C>        <C>
BALANCE SHEET DATA:
Working capital                                                            $49,901     $50,052    $31,926    $29,935    $24,735
Total assets                                                                89,218      88,613     68,554     61,941     52,442
Long-term debt, net of current portion                                      44,420      50,120     30,465     28,684     22,169
Total shareholders' equity                                                  32,143      26,902     26,373     25,110     21,946
</TABLE>
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                      YEARS ENDED DECEMBER 31,
DOLLARS IN THOUSANDS                                                 1996(1)(7)   1995(1)(2)(3)       1994       1993       1992
<S>                                                                  <C>          <C>              <C>        <C>        <C>
OTHER DATA:
Gross profit as a percentage of net sales                                16.9%             19.1%      16.9%      16.0%      16.9%
Income from operations as a percentage of net sales                       9.7%              4.9%       9.4%       8.8%      10.0%
Depreciation and amortization                                        $  3,804        $    3,440    $ 2,885    $ 2,292    $ 1,753
Capital expenditures                                                    3,399             5,856      4,495      7,086      5,952
EBITDA (6)                                                             16,712             8,627     12,386      9,928     10,695
</TABLE>
    
 
                                       6
 
<PAGE>
   
(1) In December 1995, the Company brought its sales and marketing functions
in-house in order to increase control and enhance profitability (the "Box
Transaction"). The Company had previously conducted its sales and marketing
activities through an exclusive sales agent, Box & Company ("Box & Company"),
under an arrangement (the "Sales & Marketing Agreement") pursuant to which the
Company paid a commission of 3.0% of net sales plus an allowance for certain
promotional material. Box & Company is a corporation owned by G. Walker Box, a
principal shareholder of the Company and Chairman of the Board. The Company
terminated the Sales & Marketing Agreement as of December 31, 1995, and recorded
a non-recurring charge of $2.0 million, the amount of the termination payment.
The Company's sales and marketing expenses have decreased as a result of the Box
Transaction. For the year ended December 31, 1996, the Company's sales and
marketing expenses as a percent of net sales were 1.3% compared to 5.3% for the
same period in 1995. See "Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial
Condition and Results of Operations" and "Certain Relationships and Related
Transactions."
    
 
(2) Includes a non-recurring charge of $3.3 million to increase the allowance
for doubtful accounts receivable primarily related to the bankruptcy of a
customer. See "Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and
Results of Operations."
 
   
(3) Had the Box Transaction occurred at the beginning of 1995, excluding the two
non-recurring charges mentioned in notes (1) and (2), for the year ended
December 31, 1995, selling, general and administrative expenses ("SG&A") would
have been $7.3 million compared to $14.4 million as reported. In addition,
Income from operations, Net income, Earnings per common share and common
equivalent -- primary and fully diluted and EBITDA would have been $12.0
million, $5.5 million, $0.77 and $15.7 million, respectively.
    
 
(4) Includes $73,651 of income from the cumulative effect of a change in
accounting for the adoption of SFAS No. 109.
 
   
(5) Based upon earnings with adjusted interest expense and adjusted weighted
average number of shares after net proceeds from the Offering are used for
repayment of indebtedness.
    
 
   
(6) Represents earnings before interest expense, income taxes, depreciation and
amortization. EBITDA is commonly used to analyze companies on the basis of
operating performance, leverage and liquidity. EBITDA should not be considered
as a measure of profitability or liquidity as determined in accordance with
generally accepted accounting principles in the statements of operations and
cash flows.
    
 
   
(7) Includes $83,930 of expense from the change in the method of determining the
cost of inventories, except production supplies, from the FIFO method to the
LIFO method. The effect of the change was to decrease net income by $53,212
($0.01 per share).
    
 
                                       7
 
<PAGE>
                                  RISK FACTORS
 
THIS PROSPECTUS CONTAINS CERTAIN FORWARD-LOOKING STATEMENTS WITHIN THE MEANING
OF THE FEDERAL SECURITIES LAWS. ACTUAL RESULTS AND THE TIMING OF CERTAIN EVENTS
COULD DIFFER MATERIALLY FROM THOSE PROJECTED IN FORWARD-LOOKING STATEMENTS DUE
TO A NUMBER OF FACTORS, INCLUDING THOSE SET FORTH BELOW AND ELSEWHERE IN THIS
PROSPECTUS. IN ADDITION TO OTHER INFORMATION IN THIS PROSPECTUS, THE FOLLOWING
FACTORS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED CAREFULLY BY PROSPECTIVE INVESTORS IN EVALUATING
THE COMPANY AND ITS BUSINESS BEFORE PURCHASING SHARES OF COMMON STOCK OFFERED
HEREBY.
 
   
FLUCTUATIONS IN APPAREL RETAIL DEMAND
    
 
   
In general, the retail industry has experienced significant changes and
difficulties over the past several years, including consolidation of ownership,
increased centralization of buying decisions, customer order cancellations,
restructuring, bankruptcies and liquidations. As a result of weak apparel
retailing demand during the second half of 1995, the Company experienced lower
than anticipated demand for its products, which resulted in higher inventory
levels. Although the Company believes that demand for the Company's apparel
products has recovered, there can be no assurance that the apparel industry will
not experience weakness in the future.
    
 
IMPACT OF SEASONALITY
 
   
Typically, demand for fleece products is higher during the third and fourth
quarters than in the first two quarters of each year. As a result, the Company
produces and stores fleece finished goods inventory in order to meet the heavy
demand for delivery in the second half of the year. If, after producing and
storing fleece inventory in anticipation of third and fourth quarter deliveries,
demand is significantly less than expected, the Company may be required to hold
inventory for an extended period of time at the Company's expense, or sell the
excess inventory at reduced prices, thereby reducing profits. The holding of
excess inventory could also necessitate the slowing of production, lower plant
and equipment utilization and lower fixed operating cost absorption resulting in
a negative impact on the Company's results of operations and financial
condition. See "Business -- Seasonality."
    
 
COMPETITION
 
The fleece and jersey activewear industry is highly competitive. The Company
believes that its primary competitors are vertically integrated manufacturers
such as Fruit of the Loom, Inc. ("Fruit of the Loom"), Oneita Industries, Inc.
("Oneita"), Russell Corporation ("Russell"), Sara Lee Corporation ("Sara Lee"),
Tultex Corporation ("Tultex") and VF Corporation ("VF") among others. Certain of
these competitors have greater financial resources and manufacturing,
distribution and marketing capabilities than the Company. The Company's future
success will depend to a significant extent upon its ability to remain
competitive in the areas of quality, price, marketing, product development,
manufacturing, distribution and order processing. There can be no assurance that
the Company will be able to compete effectively in all such areas in the future.
See "Business -- Competition."
 
In recent years, certain fleece and jersey apparel manufacturers have
overproduced inventory as a result of excess plant and equipment capacity. This
oversupply of inventory has on occasion led to inventory dumping, resulting in
price reductions for fleece and jersey apparel. Such lower prices have had an
adverse effect upon the Company's operating results. The Company believes that
continuation of this practice would have an adverse impact on fleece and jersey
apparel manufacturers, including the Company.
 
Recently, import protection afforded to domestic manufacturers has been
declining, resulting in increased foreign competition. Over a period of ten
years beginning in 1995, the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade ("GATT")
eliminates restrictions on imports of apparel. In addition, on January 1, 1994,
the North American Free Trade Agreement ("NAFTA"), which reduces or repeals
trade barriers with Canada and Mexico, became effective. The implementation of
both GATT and NAFTA, as well as other free trade agreements, could result in
increased apparel imports from foreign manufacturers and have an adverse effect
upon the Company.
 
In general, wholesale distributors warehouse inventory longer than other
distribution channels. Consequently, manufacturers, including the Company, have
extended to wholesale customers longer payment terms. In addition, certain
manufacturers recently began a practice of consigning products to wholesale
distributors for competitive reasons. Should wholesale distributors of fleece
and jersey apparel demand and receive longer payment terms than currently exist,
or should consignment of inventory become common within the industry, the
Company could be adversely impacted by increased inventory costs, delays in
collecting receivables and return of inventory.
 
                                       8
 
<PAGE>
CONCENTRATION OF CUSTOMERS
 
   
The Company's top ten customers accounted for approximately 75.5% of its net
sales and 65.4% of its accounts receivable for the year ended December 31, 1996
and 75.6% of its net sales and 78.2% of its accounts receivable for the year
ended December 31, 1995. Its top three customers for the year ended December 31,
1996, Sam's Club, adidas and Frank L. Robinson, accounted for 24.1%, 14.7% and
7.2%, respectively, of net sales. For the year ended December 31, 1995, the
Company's top three customers, Sam's Club, Frank L. Robinson and Starter Galt
(formerly Galt/Sand), accounted for 16.1%, 12.8% and 11.4%, respectively, of the
Company's net sales. In the event that any of these customers or any of the
Company's other significant customers were to substantially reduce their orders
or cease buying from the Company, such an occurrence would have a material
adverse effect on the Company's business should the Company be unable to replace
that business with other customers. See "Business -- Customers."
    
 
   
DEPENDENCE ON CUSTOMER FINANCIAL STABILITY
    
 
   
While various retailers and wholesalers, including some of the Company's
customers, experienced financial difficulties in the past few years, which
increased the risk of extending credit to certain customers, the Company's bad
debt experience was limited until 1995. In that year, the Company increased its
allowance for doubtful accounts receivable by $3.3 million from $0.9 million to
$4.1 million as of December 31, 1995, related to the anticipated bankruptcy of a
major customer, 20/20 Sport, Inc. ("20/20 Sport"), that occurred on February 1,
1996. In 1996, the Company wrote-off the entire accounts receivable balance of
$3.6 million due from 20/20 Sport. Sales to 20/20 Sport were $2.5 million and
$5.0 million for the years ended December 31, 1996 and 1995, respectively. The
Company has not extended credit to 20/20 Sport since February 1, 1996. The
allowance for doubtful accounts was $0.8 million as of December 31, 1996. The
Company believes its allowance for doubtful accounts is sufficient. However,
there can be no assurance that the Company will not have to increase such
allowances in the future. See "Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial
Condition and Results of Operations."
    
 
AVAILABILITY AND PRICE OF RAW MATERIALS
 
   
The Company purchases raw materials such as yarn, dye stuffs and chemicals used
in manufacturing its products. All of these purchases are made domestically. The
Company is dependent upon the ability of its suppliers to furnish these
materials in sufficient volumes at fair prices and to meet performance, quality
and delivery criteria. Except for contracts periodically entered into by the
Company that obligate yarn suppliers to deliver the cotton portion of yarn at a
fixed price over a period of time, the Company does not have any contracts with
its suppliers that obligate them to continue selling to the Company. The prices
of cotton and polyester have been volatile since 1994. Should shortages of
materials occur or should the prices of these materials rise, the Company's
inability to increase its prices to recover such cost increases could have a
material adverse effect upon the Company. See "Business -- Sources of Raw
Materials."
    
 
   
FINANCIAL LEVERAGE
    
 
   
The Company is and will continue to be leveraged. As of December 31, 1996, the
Company had outstanding indebtedness to First Union National Bank ("FUNB") in
the aggregate amount of $43.6 million pursuant to the terms of a loan agreement
evidencing the Company's revolving credit facility (the "Credit Facility").
Although the Company intends to utilize all of the net proceeds from this
Offering to reduce the outstanding balance of the Credit Facility, an
outstanding balance of approximately $14 million will remain thereon.
Furthermore, the Company anticipates utilizing the Credit Facility in the
future, when necessary, to fund operating and capital expenditures. Therefore,
the Company has incurred and may continue to incur in the future significant
interest expense. The degree to which the Company is leveraged could affect the
Company's ability to obtain additional financing. Also, since the Company's
borrowings are at variable interest rates, an increase in interest rates would
result in higher interest expense. See "Management's Discussion and Analysis of
Financial Condition and Results of Operations -- Liquidity and Capital
Resources."
    
 
RESTRICTIONS IMPOSED BY CREDIT AGREEMENT
 
   
The Credit Facility imposes certain operating and financial restrictions on the
Company. At certain times in 1995, the Company was out of compliance with those
financial covenants relating to limitations on (i) the incurrence of additional
indebtedness (which was the result of the promissory note given in the Box
Transaction), (ii) transactions with related parties (resulting from the
Company's contract with Diversified Distributions, Inc. See "Certain
Relationships and Related Transactions"), (iii) capital expenditures (resulting
from the purchase of the Company's sewing plant in Vesta, Virginia. See
"Business -- Properties"), as well as financial covenants related to the
maintenance of certain debt to equity and EBITDA to interest expense ratios
(resulting
    
 
                                       9
 
<PAGE>
   
from the Box Transaction and the non-recurring charge for the doubtful account
receivable attributable to 20/20 Sport). The Company sought waivers in
connection with these matters, all of which were granted. As of December 31,
1996, the Company was in full compliance with the loan agreement. However, there
can be no assurance that the Company will not have to seek waivers in the
future, and there can be no assurance that such waivers will be granted. The
restrictions and financial requirements described above and the leveraged
position of the Company could limit the Company's ability to respond to changing
business or economic conditions, or other developments affecting the Company's
operating results. See "Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial
Condition and Results of Operations -- Liquidity and Capital Resources."
    
 
ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROLS AND OTHER REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS
 
The Company is subject to various federal, state and local environmental laws
and regulations governing, among other things, the discharge, storage, handling
and disposal of a variety of hazardous and nonhazardous substances and wastes
used in or resulting from its present and past operations. While the Company
does not expect that compliance with any of such laws and regulations will
adversely affect the Company's operations, there can be no assurance that
environmental regulatory requirements will not become more stringent in the
future or that the Company will not incur significant costs relating to
environmental matters in the future. The Company's operations also are governed
by laws and regulations relating to employee safety and health, principally the
Occupational Safety and Health Act ("OSHA") and regulations thereunder, that,
among other things, establish exposure limitations for cotton dust,
formaldehyde, asbestos and noise and regulate chemical and ergonomic hazards in
the workplace. See "Business -- Environmental Matters."
 
RELIANCE ON KEY PERSONNEL
 
The success of the Company's business will be partially dependent upon the
performance of certain members of senior management. The loss of key members of
senior management could have an adverse effect on the Company's business. See
"Management." The Company's key executive officers are parties to employment
contracts. See "Management -- Employment Agreements, Change in Control
Arrangements." The Company maintains key man life insurance on certain
executives.
 
CONTROL BY PRINCIPAL SHAREHOLDERS
 
   
Upon consummation of the Offering, the officers and directors of the Company as
a group will control (directly or through beneficial ownership) 39.1% (36.9% if
the Underwriters' over-allotment option is exercised in full) of the outstanding
voting securities of the Company. Furthermore, certain family members of these
officers and directors own additional Pluma shares that are not attributable to
these officers and directors. These officers and directors will have the ability
to control the business affairs of the Company (including the perpetuation of
their positions with the Company if 8.4% of other holders of the Common Stock
vote their shares consistently with such officers and directors and the
Underwriters over-allotment option is not exercised). See "Principal
Shareholders."
    
 
ANTITAKEOVER PROVISIONS
 
The Company's Bylaws and Articles of Incorporation include provisions that may
have the effect of discouraging a nonnegotiated takeover of the Company and
preventing certain changes of control. These provisions, among other things (i)
classify the Company's Board of Directors into three classes serving staggered
three-year terms; (ii) permit the Company's Board of Directors, without further
shareholder approval, to issue up to 1.0 million shares of preferred stock with
rights and preferences determined by the Board of Directors at the time of
issuance; and (iii) create a supermajority vote requirement (66 2/3%) of the
Company's shareholders and directors prior to a sale of the Company's assets or
other change in control of the Company. Such restrictions might, therefore, have
the effect of inhibiting shareholders' ability to realize maximum value for
their shares of Common Stock that might otherwise be realized as a result of a
merger or other event affecting the control of the Company. See "Description of
Capital Stock."
 
NO PRIOR PUBLIC MARKET; DETERMINATION OF OFFERING PRICE; POSSIBLE VOLATILITY OF
STOCK PRICE
 
Prior to this Offering, there has been no public market for the Company's Common
Stock. There can be no assurance that an active trading market in the Common
Stock will develop or be sustained after this Offering. The initial public
offering price will be determined through negotiations among the Company, the
Selling Shareholders and the representatives of the Underwriters based on the
factors described under "Underwriting" and may not be indicative of the market
price of the Common Stock after the Offering. The trading price of the Common
Stock could be subject to significant fluctuations in response to variations in
the Company's quarterly operating and financial results, changes in earnings
estimates by research analysts and other events or
 
                                       10
 
<PAGE>
   
factors. In addition, the stock market has in recent years experienced
significant price fluctuations. These fluctuations often have been unrelated to
the operating performance of specific companies. Broad market fluctuations, as
well as economic conditions generally, and in the apparel manufacturing industry
specifically, may adversely affect the market price and liquidity of the
Company's Common Stock.
    
 
SHARES ELIGIBLE FOR FUTURE SALE
 
   
Sales of substantial amounts of Common Stock, or the availability of substantial
amounts of Common Stock for future sale, could adversely affect the prevailing
market price of the Common Stock. However, the Company, its directors, certain
of its officers and all shareholders who own more than 36,800 shares of Common
Stock have agreed with the Underwriters not to sell shares of Common Stock or
securities convertible into Common Stock, subject to certain limited exceptions,
for 180 days from the date of this Prospectus. See "Shares Eligible for Future
Sale."
    
 
DILUTION
 
   
Purchasers of Common Stock in this Offering will experience immediate and
substantial dilution in net tangible book value of the Common Stock offered
hereby (based on an assumed initial public offering price of $13.00 per share)
of approximately $5.13 per share ($4.89 per share if the Underwriters'
over-allotment option is exercised in full). See "Dilution."
    
 
                                       11
 
<PAGE>
                                USE OF PROCEEDS
 
   
The net proceeds to the Company from the sale of 2,500,000 shares of the Common
Stock offered by the Company (after deducting the underwriting discounts and
estimated expenses associated with the Offering) are estimated to be
approximately $29.4 million ($35.0 million if the Underwriters' over-allotment
option is exercised in full) assuming an initial public offering price of $13.00
per share. The Company intends to use all of such net proceeds to reduce the
Company's outstanding indebtedness to FUNB under the Credit Facility. The
Company's interest rate on the FUNB loan is variable. On December 31, 1996, the
interest rate on the Credit Facility was 6.86%, and the amount outstanding was
$43.6 million. The Company's Credit Facility expires on May 30, 2000. The
proceeds previously drawn under the Credit Facility were used to fund working
capital requirements of the Company and certain purchases of plant and
equipment. The Company will not receive the benefit of that portion of the net
proceeds of this Offering to be paid to Selling Shareholders.
    
 
                                DIVIDEND POLICY
 
   
The Company has declared and paid quarterly cash dividends on its Common Stock
since 1991. Quarterly cash dividends paid since January 1994 have been $0.0272
per share. The Company does not anticipate paying a dividend in the foreseeable
future. Any dividend declarations in the future will depend upon the Company's
profitability, financial condition, capital needs, possible lender consent and
other factors deemed relevant by the Board of Directors. The Company's loan
agreement with FUNB prohibits the Company from paying a dividend if such payment
would cause the Company to violate certain financial covenants imposed on the
Company by the loan agreement.
    
 
                                       12
 
<PAGE>
                                    DILUTION
 
   
Purchasers of the Common Stock offered hereby will experience an immediate
dilution in the net tangible book value of their Common Stock from the assumed
initial public offering price. The net tangible book value of the Common Stock
at December 31, 1996, was approximately $32.1 million, or $6.05 per share of
outstanding Common Stock.
    
 
   
Net tangible book value per share represents total assets of the Company (there
are no significant intangible assets) less total liabilities, divided by the
number of shares of Common Stock outstanding. After giving effect to the
issuance and sale by the Company of 2,500,000 shares of Common Stock at an
assumed initial public offering price of $13.00 per share (after deducting the
underwriting discount and the estimated expenses associated with the Offering to
be paid by the Company), the pro forma net tangible book value as of December
31, 1996 would be approximately $61.5 million or $7.87 per share ($67.1 million
or $8.11 per share, assuming the Underwriters' over-allotment option is
exercised in full). This represents an immediate increase in pro forma net
tangible book value of $1.82 per share to existing shareholders, and an
immediate dilution of $5.13 per share to investors purchasing shares at the
initial public offering price.
    
 
The following table illustrates this per share dilution:
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
<S>                                                                                             <C>        <C>
Assumed initial public offering price per share of Common Stock                                            $13.00
  Net tangible book value per share at December 31, 1996                                        $ 6.05
  Increase attributable to new investors                                                          1.82
Pro forma net tangible book value per share after the Offering                                               7.87
Dilution in net tangible book value per share to new investors                                             $ 5.13
</TABLE>
    
 
The following table sets forth the number of shares of Common Stock purchased
from the Company, the total consideration paid to the Company and the average
price per share paid to the Company by existing shareholders and the investors
purchasing shares of Common Stock in the Offering:
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                    SHARES PURCHASED          TOTAL CONSIDERATION       AVERAGE PRICE
                                                   NUMBER       PERCENT       AMOUNT        PERCENT       PER SHARE
<S>                                              <C>            <C>         <C>             <C>         <C>
Existing shareholders (1)                         5,315,797       68.0%     $ 5,231,575       13.9%       $     .98
New investors                                     2,500,000       32.0       32,500,000       86.1            13.00
  Total                                           7,815,797      100.0%     $37,731,575      100.0%
</TABLE>
    
 
   
(1) If the Underwriters' over-allotment option is exercised in full, the number
of shares held by the new investors will increase to 2,965,000, or 35.8% of the
total number of shares to be outstanding after this Offering, and the number of
shares held by the existing shareholders will be 5,315,797 shares, or 64.2% of
the total number of shares to be outstanding after the Offering.
    
 
                                       13
 
<PAGE>
                                 CAPITALIZATION
 
   
The following table sets forth short-term borrowings and the capitalization of
the Company (i) as of December 31, 1996, and (ii) as adjusted to give effect to
the sale of the shares of Common Stock offered by the Company at an assumed
initial public offering price of $13.00 per share and the application of the
estimated net proceeds to be received by the Company from the Offering to the
reduction of the outstanding balance of the Credit Facility. See "Use of
Proceeds." The information set forth below should be read in conjunction with
"Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of
Operations" and the Financial Statements of the Company included elsewhere in
this Prospectus.
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                                              AS OF
                                                                                                        DECEMBER 31, 1996
                                                                                                       ACTUAL        AS ADJUSTED (1)
<S>                                                                                           <C>                    <C>
Short-term borrowings, including current portion of long-term debt                              $     849,640          $     849,640
Long-term debt:
  Revolving loan                                                                                   43,569,904             14,204,904
  Subordinated debt                                                                                   849,640                849,640
    Total long-term debt, net of current portion                                                   44,419,544             15,054,544
Shareholders' equity:
  Preferred stock, no par value, 1,000,000 shares authorized, none outstanding                             --                     --
  Common stock, no par value, 15,000,000 shares authorized;
    5,315,797 shares outstanding; 7,815,797 shares outstanding as adjusted (2)                      7,222,550              7,222,550
  Paid-in capital                                                                                          --             29,365,000
  Retained earnings                                                                                24,920,343             24,920,343
    Total shareholders' equity                                                                     32,142,893             61,507,893
    Total capitalization                                                                        $  76,562,437          $  76,562,437
</TABLE>
    
 
   
(1) Assumes the Underwriters' over-allotment option for up to 465,000 shares of
Common Stock is not exercised. See "Underwriting."
    
 
   
(2) Excludes an aggregate of 382,720 shares of Common Stock issuable upon the
exercise of stock options as of the date hereof at a purchase price of $13.077
per share granted to certain Company employees and directors pursuant to the
Company's 1995 Stock Option Plan, as defined elsewhere in this Prospectus. See
"Management -- Stock Option Plan."
    
 
                                       14
 
<PAGE>
                     SELECTED FINANCIAL AND OPERATING DATA
 
   
Statement of Operations Data for each of the years in the three-year period
ended December 31, 1996, and the Balance Sheet Data as of December 31, 1996 and
1995 set forth below have been derived from the Company's audited financial
statements included elsewhere in this Prospectus. The Statement of Operations
Data for each of the years in the two-year period ended December 31, 1993, and
the Balance Sheet Data as of December 31, 1994, 1993 and 1992 are derived from
the Company's audited financial statements which are not included in this
Prospectus.
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
<S>                                                               <C>            <C>               <C>         <C>         <C>
                                                                                      YEARS ENDED DECEMBER 31,
IN THOUSANDS, EXCEPT PER SHARE DATA                               1996(1)(7)     1995(1)(2)(3)        1994        1993        1992
STATEMENT OF OPERATIONS DATA:
Net sales                                                         $127,820         $ 100,710       $97,908     $86,645     $83,569
Cost of goods sold                                                 106,247            81,429        81,409      72,762      69,421
Gross profit                                                        21,573            19,281        16,499      13,883      14,148
Selling, general and administrative expenses                         9,149            14,385         7,300       6,255       5,788
Income from operations                                              12,424             4,896         9,199       7,628       8,360
Other expenses, net                                                  3,251             3,130         2,255       1,633         774
Income before income taxes and cumulative effect of accounting
  change                                                             9,173             1,766         6,944       5,995       7,586
Income taxes                                                         3,355               659         2,594       2,202       2,795
Income before cumulative effect of accounting change                 5,818             1,107         4,350       3,793       4,791
Cumulative effect of accounting change                                  --                --            --          74(4)       --
Net income                                                        $  5,818         $   1,107       $ 4,350     $ 3,867(4)  $ 4,791
Earnings per common share and common equivalent -- primary and
  fully diluted:
  Income before cumulative effect of accounting change            $   1.09         $     .21       $   .83     $   .69     $   .87
  Net income                                                      $   1.09         $     .21       $   .83     $   .70     $   .87
  Supplemental (5)                                                $   1.33
Weighted average number of shares outstanding                        5,316             5,316         5,244       5,492       5,537
Cash dividends per common share                                   $    .11         $     .11       $   .11     $   .11     $   .08
</TABLE>
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
<S>                                                                <C>           <C>               <C>         <C>         <C>
                                                                                         AS OF DECEMBER 31,
IN THOUSANDS                                                          1996                1995        1994        1993        1992
BALANCE SHEET DATA:
Working capital                                                    $49,901         $  50,052       $31,926     $29,935     $24,735
Total assets                                                        89,218            88,613        68,554      61,941      52,442
Long-term debt, net of current portion                              44,420            50,120        30,465      28,684      22,169
Total shareholders' equity                                          32,143            26,902        26,373      25,110      21,946
</TABLE>
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
<S>                                                                 <C>           <C>               <C>         <C>        <C>
                                                                                       YEARS ENDED DECEMBER 31,
DOLLARS IN THOUSANDS                                                1996(1)(7)    1995(1)(2)(3)        1994       1993        1992
OTHER DATA:
Gross profit as a percentage of net sales                              16.9%             19.1%         16.9%      16.0%       16.9%
Income from operations as a percentage of net sales                     9.7%              4.9%          9.4%       8.8%       10.0%
Depreciation and amortization                                       $ 3,804         $   3,440       $ 2,885     $2,292     $ 1,753
Capital expenditures                                                  3,399             5,856         4,495      7,086       5,952
EBITDA (6)                                                           16,712             8,627        12,386      9,928      10,695
</TABLE>
    
 
                                       15
 
<PAGE>
               SELECTED FINANCIAL AND OPERATING DATA (CONTINUED)
 
   
(1) In December 1995, the Company brought its sales and marketing functions
in-house in order to increase control and enhance profitability (the "Box
Transaction"). The Company had previously conducted its sales and marketing
activities through an exclusive sales agent, Box & Company ("Box & Company"),
under an arrangement (the "Sales & Marketing Agreement") pursuant to which the
Company paid a commission of 3.0% of net sales plus an allowance for certain
promotional material. Box & Company is a corporation owned by G. Walker Box, a
principal shareholder of the Company and Chairman of the Board. The Company
terminated the Sales & Marketing Agreement as of December 31, 1995, and recorded
a non-recurring charge of $2.0 million, the amount of the termination payment.
The Company's sales and marketing expenses have decreased as a result of the Box
Transaction. For the year ended December 31, 1996, the Company's sales and
marketing expenses as a percent of net sales were 1.3% compared to 5.3% for the
same period in 1995. See "Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial
Condition and Results of Operations" and "Certain Relationships and Related
Transactions."
    
 
   
(2) Includes a non-recurring charge of $3.3 million to increase the allowance
for doubtful accounts receivable primarily related to the bankruptcy of a
customer. See "Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and
Results of Operation."
    
 
   
(3) Had the Box Transaction occurred at the beginning of 1995, excluding the two
non-recurring charges mentioned in notes (1) and (2), for the year ended
December 31, 1995, selling, general and administrative expenses ("SG&A") would
have been $7.3 million compared to $14.4 million as reported. In addition,
Income from operations, Net income, Earnings per common share and common
equivalent -- primary and fully diluted and EBITDA would have been $12.0
million, $5.5 million, $0.77 and $15.7 million, respectively.
    
 
(4) Includes $73,651 of income from the cumulative effect of a change in
accounting for the adoption of SFAS No. 109.
 
   
(5) Based upon earnings with adjusted interest expense and adjusted weighted
average number of shares after net proceeds from the Offering are used for
repayment of indebtedness.
    
 
(6) Represents earnings before interest expense, income taxes, depreciation and
amortization. EBITDA is commonly used to analyze companies on the basis of
operating performance, leverage and liquidity. EBITDA should not be considered
as a measure of profitability or liquidity as determined in accordance with
generally accepted accounting principles in the statements of operations and
cash flows.
 
   
(7) Includes $83,930 of expense from the change in the method of determining the
cost of inventories, except production supplies, from the FIFO method to the
LIFO method. The effect of the change was to decrease net income by $53,212
($0.01 per share).
    
 
                                       16
 
<PAGE>
               MANAGEMENT'S DISCUSSION AND ANALYSIS OF FINANCIAL
                      CONDITION AND RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
 
GENERAL
 
Incorporated in 1986, Pluma is a vertically integrated manufacturer of high
quality fleece and jersey activewear. Historically, the Company's sales have
been derived predominantly from fleece products. However, since introducing
jersey products in 1990, the Company has increased jersey sales in order to
diversify its product mix, more efficiently utilize its manufacturing base and
reduce the impact of seasonality that is inherent in the fleece industry.
Generally, jersey products are sold at lower price points and generate lower
gross margins than fleece products.
 
   
In December 1995, the Company brought its sales and marketing functions in-house
in order to increase control and enhance profitability (the "Box Transaction").
The Company had previously conducted its sales and marketing activities through
an exclusive sales agent, Box & Company ("Box & Company"), under an arrangement
(the "Sales and Marketing Agreement") pursuant to which the Company paid a
commission of 3.0% of net sales plus an allowance for certain promotional
material. Box & Company is a corporation owned by G. Walker Box, a principal
shareholder of the Company and Chairman of the Board. The Company terminated the
Sales and Marketing Agreement as of December 31, 1995, and recorded a
non-recurring charge of $2.0 million, the amount of the termination payment.
Sales and marketing expenses have decreased as a result of the Box Transaction.
For the year ended December 31, 1996, the Company's sales and marketing expenses
as a percent of net sales were 1.3% as compared to 5.3% for the same period in
1995. In addition, in December 1995, the Company incurred a non-recurring charge
of $3.3 million to increase the allowance for doubtful accounts receivable
related to the bankruptcy of 20/20 Sport. Had the Box Transaction occurred as of
the beginning of 1995, and excluding the two non-recurring charges, for the year
ended December 31, 1995, SG&A as a percent of net sales would have been 7.3% as
compared to 14.2%, as reported.
    
 
The following table presents the major components of the Company's Statements of
Operations as a percentage of net sales:
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                     YEARS ENDED DECEMBER 31,
                                                                                   1996        1995        1994
<S>                                                                                <C>         <C>         <C>
Net sales                                                                          100.0%      100.0%      100.0%
Cost of goods sold                                                                  83.1        80.9        83.1
Gross profit                                                                        16.9        19.1        16.9
Selling, general and administrative expenses                                         7.2        14.2         7.5
Income from operations                                                               9.7         4.9         9.4
Other expenses, net                                                                  2.5         3.1         2.3
Income before income taxes and cumulative effect of accounting change                7.2         1.8         7.1
Income taxes                                                                         2.6          .7         2.7
Net income                                                                           4.6%        1.1%        4.4%
</TABLE>
    
 
RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
 
   
YEAR ENDED DECEMBER 31, 1996, COMPARED TO YEAR ENDED DECEMBER 31, 1995
    
 
   
NET SALES. Net sales increased 26.9% to $127.8 million in 1996 from $100.7
million in 1995, an increase of $27.1 million. Gross dozens sold of fleece and
jersey increased 25.2% to 1.6 million dozens in 1996 from 1.3 million dozens in
1995. The increase in net sales was principally attributable to increased sales
of jersey activewear, sales of new products and revenue from the addition of new
customers. Sales of jersey activewear increased by 56.1% to $46.8 million in
1996 from $30.0 million in 1995, an increase of $16.8 million. Sales of new
products accounted for 16.1% of 1996 net sales. Average sales price per dozen
for total products increased 1.0% in 1996 as a result of an increased average
sales price per dozen for fleece that was partially offset by a slight decline
in the average sales price per dozen for jersey products. See
"Business -- Products."
    
 
   
GROSS PROFIT. Gross profit was 16.9% of net sales in 1996 as compared to 19.1%
in 1995. This decrease in gross profit was the result of increased sales of
jersey activewear as a percent of total sales, higher raw material costs, harsh
winter weather causing higher fuel costs, weak demand in the first quarter of
1996, and increased medical and workers' compensation insurance costs due to an
increase in the labor force. As a result of the weak demand in the first quarter
and the harsh winter weather
    
 
                                       17
 
<PAGE>
   
mentioned above, the Company experienced lower than expected utilization of its
plant facilities. There can be no assurance that the factors discussed above
will not occur again.
    
 
   
SELLING, GENERAL AND ADMINISTRATIVE EXPENSES. SG&A decreased 36.4% to $9.1
million in 1996 from $14.4 million in 1995. SG&A as a percent of net sales for
1996 was 7.2% compared to 14.2% in 1995. This decrease in SG&A as a percentage
of net sales resulted primarily from bringing sales and marketing functions
in-house.
    
 
   
OTHER EXPENSES, NET. Other expenses, net, increased 3.9% to $3.3 million in 1996
from $3.1 million in 1995, an increase of $0.1 million. This increase was
primarily the result of an increase in interest expense as a result of
additional borrowings to fund higher inventories.
    
 
YEAR ENDED DECEMBER 31, 1995, COMPARED TO YEAR ENDED DECEMBER 31, 1994
 
   
NET SALES. Net sales increased 2.9% to $100.7 million in 1995 from $97.9 million
in 1994, an increase of $2.8 million. Gross dozens sold of fleece and jersey
increased 9.5% to 1.3 million dozens in 1995 from 1.2 million dozens in 1994.
The increase in net sales was principally attributable to increased sales of
jersey activewear, sales of new products and additional revenue from a major
customer. Sales of jersey activewear increased by 89.6% to $30.0 million in 1995
from $15.8 million in 1994, an increase of $14.2 million. Sales of new products
accounted for 12.5% of 1995 net sales. Sales to one major customer, Sam's Club,
increased by $8.7 million. This increase in net sales was offset by a 10.6%
decrease in sales of fleece activewear to $70.6 million in 1995 from $79.0
million in 1994. This decrease was primarily attributable to a general weakness
in demand for back-to-school and holiday seasonal purchasing. Average sales
price per dozen for total products decreased 3.1% in 1995 as a result of
increased sales of jersey products, which generally sell at lower price points
than fleece. However, average sales price per dozen for fleece and jersey each
increased. See "Business -- Products."
    
 
GROSS PROFIT. Gross profit was 19.1% of net sales in 1995, as compared to 16.9%
in 1994. This increase in gross profit was a result of efficiency improvements
resulting from computerized purchasing and scheduling controls and higher
utilization of capacity for the first three quarters. This increase in gross
profit was offset primarily by lower than expected utilization of the Company's
plant and equipment in the fourth quarter of 1995, increased sales of jersey
products and increased medical and workers' compensation insurance costs.
 
   
SELLING, GENERAL AND ADMINISTRATIVE EXPENSES. SG&A increased 97.0% to $14.4
million in 1995 from $7.3 million in 1994, an increase of $7.1 million. SG&A as
a percent of net sales for 1995 was 14.2% compared to 7.5% in 1994. This
increase was due primarily to a non-recurring charge of $3.3 million to increase
the allowance for doubtful accounts receivable related to 20/20 Sport, a
customer that filed for bankruptcy protection in the U.S. Bankruptcy Court in
the Southern District of New York in February 1996 (such amount subsequently has
been written off), and a non-recurring charge of $2.0 million for termination of
the Sales and Marketing Agreement as a result of the Box Transaction. In
addition, compensation costs increased by $0.9 million. Had the Box Transaction
occurred as of the beginning of 1995, and excluding the two non-recurring
charges, for the year ended December 31, 1995, SG&A as a percent of net sales
would have been 7.3% as compared to 14.2%, as reported.
    
 
OTHER EXPENSES, NET. Other expenses, net, increased 38.9% to $3.1 million in
1995 from $2.3 million in 1994, an increase of $0.9 million. This increase was
primarily the result of an increase in interest expense as a result of
additional borrowings to fund higher inventories and the absence of the $0.3
million insurance settlement recognized in 1994.
 
INCOME TAXES. The effective tax rate was 37.3% in 1995 compared to 37.4% in
1994.
 
   
SELECTED QUARTERLY OPERATING RESULTS
    
 
   
The following table sets forth quarterly unaudited financial information of the
Company for the eight quarters ended December 31, 1996. This information has
been prepared on the same basis as the annual information presented elsewhere in
this Prospectus and, in management's opinion, reflects all adjustments necessary
for a fair presentation of the information for the quarters presented when read
in conjunction with the Company's financial statements and the notes thereto
included elsewhere in this Prospectus. The operating results for any quarter are
not necessarily indicative of the results for any subsequent period or for the
entire fiscal year. The quarterly unaudited financial information below differs
from amounts previously reported by the Company as a result of allocating
certain year-end accruals, including the Company's change in accounting for
inventories, except production supplies, from the FIFO method to the LIFO method
in 1996, to the respective interim periods in which the related charges were
incurred. Except as otherwise indicated, any comparison discussed below reflects
a change from the comparable quarter of the prior year.
    
 
                                       18
 
<PAGE>
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                              QUARTERS ENDED
IN THOUSANDS,                                               1995                                          1996
    EXCEPT PER SHARE DATA                MARCH 31    JUNE 30    SEPT. 30    DEC. 31    MARCH 31    JUNE 30    SEPT. 30    DEC. 31
<S>                                      <C>         <C>        <C>         <C>        <C>         <C>        <C>         <C>
Net sales                                $ 19,220    $23,141    $ 31,817    $26,532    $ 21,932    $33,887    $ 39,719    $32,282
Cost of goods sold                         15,351     18,461      26,204     21,413      19,022     29,759      32,126     25,340
Gross profit                                3,869      4,680       5,613      5,119       2,910      4,128       7,593      6,942
Selling, general and administrative
  expenses                                  1,893      2,202       2,557      7,733       2,025      2,298       2,356      2,470
Income (loss) from operations               1,976      2,478       3,056     (2,614)        885      1,830       5,237      4,472
Other expenses, net                           595        782         868        885         761        816         909        765
Income (loss) before income taxes           1,381      1,696       2,188     (3,499)        124      1,014       4,328      3,707
Income taxes (benefits)                       508        624         805     (1,278)         46        373       1,593      1,343
Net income (loss)                        $    873    $ 1,072    $  1,383    $(2,221)   $     78    $   641    $  2,735    $ 2,364
Earnings per common share and
  common equivalent -- primary and
  fully diluted                          $    .16    $   .20    $    .26    $  (.41)   $    .01    $   .12    $    .51    $   .45
</TABLE>
    
 
The activewear business is seasonal. Typically, demand for fleece products is
lower during the first and second quarters of each year, which is partially
offset by increased demand for jersey products in these periods.
 
   
Compared to first quarter sales in 1995, first quarter sales in 1996 were $2.7
million higher. This increase was due, in part, to a carryover of additional
demand for jersey and fleece products the Company experienced in the fourth
quarter of 1995. Second quarter and third quarter sales increased $10.7 million
and $7.9 million, respectively, over the prior year's second and third quarters'
sales. The increase in net sales was principally attributable to increased sales
of jersey activewear, sales of new products and revenue from the addition of new
customers. The first and second quarters' gross profit as a percentage of net
sales in 1995 was 20.1% and 20.2%, respectively. The first and second quarters'
gross profit as a percentage of net sales in 1996 decreased to 13.3% and 12.2%,
respectively. This decrease in gross profit was the result of increased sales of
jersey activewear as a percent of total sales, higher raw material costs, harsh
winter weather causing higher fuel costs, lower than expected utilization of the
Company's plant and equipment during 1996 and sales of higher cost inventory
which was manufactured during the fourth quarter of 1995. In the third and
fourth quarters of 1996, gross profit as a percentage of net sales increased to
19.1% and 21.5%, respectively. This increase resulted from improved utilization
as the result of greater demand and higher average sales price per dozen for
fleece products.
    
 
   
During the fourth quarter of 1995, the Company incurred two non-recurring
charges: a $2.0 million termination charge as a result of the Box Transaction
and a $3.3 million increase in the allowance for doubtful accounts due to the
bankruptcy of 20/20 Sport.
    
 
The Company has experienced and expects to continue to experience fluctuations
in its quarterly results. The Company's revenues and operating performance are
affected by a number of factors, including, but not limited to, changes in raw
material prices, product mix and the general retailing environment. Therefore,
the Company believes that quarter-to-quarter comparisons of its operating
results are not necessarily indicative of future performance.
 
LIQUIDITY AND CAPITAL RESOURCES
 
   
PRINCIPAL SOURCES OF LIQUIDITY. Principal sources of liquidity have been bank
financing, cash generated from the Company's operations and private placements
of equity securities. Pursuant to a loan agreement executed on May 25, 1995 (the
"Loan Agreement"), the Company entered into the Credit Facility with FUNB in the
amount of the lesser of $55.0 million or the Company's "borrowing base" as
defined in the Loan Agreement. As of December 31, 1996, $43.6 million was
outstanding, leaving $11.4 million available. The Loan Agreement expires on May
30, 2000. The interest rate of the Credit Facility is variable, and, on December
31, 1996, it was 6.86%. The net proceeds of the Offering received by the Company
will be used to reduce the outstanding balance of the Credit Facility to
approximately $14.2 million. See "Use of Proceeds."
    
 
   
The loan agreement evidencing the Credit Facility imposes certain operating and
financial restrictions on the Company including but not limited to limitations
on mergers or other consolidations, acquisition of assets, indebtedness or
incurrence of capital leases, the creation of liens and other encumbrances on
Company assets, the disposition of assets, the payment of dividends (if such
payment
    
 
                                       19
 
<PAGE>
   
would create a default under such loan), capital expenditures and investments
and related party transactions. Further, the Company is required under the
Credit Facility to maintain specified financial ratios and levels including (i)
a minimum tangible net worth level the greater of $25,000,000 plus an annual
increase of $2,000,000 for each calendar year beginning January 1, 1996 or
tangible net worth as of the immediately preceding December 31 less $4,000,000;
(ii) a debt to equity ratio of no greater than 2.5 to 1 from January 1 through
November 30 of each year and 2.0 to 1 during each December; and (iii) a
requirement that the ratio of the Company's EBITDA (earnings before interest
expense, income taxes, depreciation and amortization) to interest expense for
any four consecutive quarters be no less than 3.5 to 1. The Company's
obligations under the Loan Agreement are secured by substantially all of the
Company's assets.
    
 
   
As of December 31, 1996, the Company's debt to equity ratio was approximately
1.4 to 1. Assuming an initial public offering price of $13.00 per share, after
applying the net proceeds of this Offering, the Company's debt to equity ratio
will be approximately 0.3 to 1.
    
 
   
In 1994, the Company conducted a private placement of Common Stock at $10.686
per share pursuant to Regulation D promulgated under the Securities Act of 1933.
The Company received approximately $1.7 million for 161,920 shares as a result
of that offering. Proceeds from this private placement were used to reduce
outstanding indebtedness.
    
 
   
As of the date hereof, the Company owes $0.8 million on a promissory note given
in January 1994 to Glazier B. Piland, a former officer/shareholder of the
Company, as a portion of the purchase price paid to redeem all of his Pluma
shares. The principal balance of this note, plus interest at 5% per annum, is
due in full in January 1998. In the event the Company defaults on this
obligation, it will be required to issue shares of Common Stock to this former
officer/shareholder equal in value to the unpaid amount of the indebtedness plus
any unpaid interest at the time of default.
    
 
   
CASH FLOWS FROM OPERATING ACTIVITIES. For the year ended December 31, 1996, the
Company's operations provided $9.6 million of cash. The principal uses of cash
were repayment of the note payable issued in connection with the Box Transaction
for $1.9 million and additional investments of $1.9 million in inventories and
$0.6 million in accounts receivable. This use was offset by increases of $2.6
million in accounts payable and accrued expenses, consisting primarily of
interest payable and reserves for medical and workers' compensation claims. For
the year ended December 31, 1995, the Company's operations used $10.6 million of
cash. The principal uses of cash were a $14.0 million increase in inventories
and a $2.4 million increase in tax-related assets. Inventories increased
primarily due to lower than expected demand in the fourth quarter of 1995. These
uses were offset by increases in accrued expenses, primarily interest payable
and reserves for medical and workers' compensation claims. For the year ended
December 31, 1994, the Company's operations generated $4.0 million of cash. The
principal use of cash was $5.6 million to fund accounts receivable. Cash flows
from operations are impacted by seasonality and changes in product demand. In
the past, in periods of weak demand, the Company has relied on bank financing to
fund operations. However, the Company believes that cash flows from operations
will be sufficient to cover operations and capital requirements for the next
twelve months.
    
 
   
CASH FLOWS FROM INVESTING ACTIVITIES. In each of the last three years the
Company has invested heavily in plant and equipment to grow its business.
Capital expenditures were $3.4 million for the year ended December 31, 1996.
Capital expenditures were $5.9 million and $4.5 million in 1995 and 1994,
respectively.
    
 
   
CASH FLOWS FROM FINANCING ACTIVITIES. For the year ended December 31, 1996, the
Company had net repayments of borrowings of $5.7 million and paid cash dividends
of $0.6 million. In 1995, the Company had net proceeds from borrowings of $17.4
million to fund operations and investments and paid cash dividends of $0.6
million. In 1994, the Company had net repayments of borrowings of $0.4 million
and paid cash dividends of $0.6 million. In addition, in 1994, the Company had
proceeds of $1.7 million from the issuance of Common Stock and repurchases of
stock totaling $0.8 million.
    
 
   
CAPITAL EXPENDITURES. Additional capital expenditures are expected in future
years to meet continued growth expectations. The Company anticipates expending
approximately $3.0 million in 1997 for additional plant and equipment as well as
approximately $2.0 million for the purchase and implementation of a new
management information system to enhance the timing and accuracy of controls.
See "Business -- Management Information Systems."
    
 
                                       20
 
<PAGE>
                                    BUSINESS
 
GENERAL
 
   
Pluma is a vertically integrated manufacturer of high quality fleece and jersey
activewear. The Company is focused on increasing sales and profitability by
offering high value products to a diverse customer base. Pluma sells its
products to companies such as adidas, Nike, Starter and Walt Disney. In
addition, the Company sells products under its own "Pluma," "SANTEE" and
"SNOWBANK" brand names to retail and wholesale customers such as Sam's Club and
Frank L. Robinson Company.
    
 
Pluma was incorporated in December 1986 by certain principal executive officers
and members of the Board of Directors who had over 100 years of collective
industry experience. They envisioned that the Company could cost effectively
produce higher quality activewear and sell to a more diverse customer base than
was common in the industry. The Company seized the opportunity to produce low
cost, high quality products by developing a manufacturing base with the most
advanced equipment available.
 
   
Since its inception, the Company has been an innovator of new products and
styles and has focused on delivering higher quality products. The Company was
one of the first to introduce heavyweight, fuller cut fleece products at
attractive price points and fleecewear with higher cotton content. These
products were well-received by consumers, and the Company rapidly increased
sales and profitability as it expanded its business across broad market
segments. In 1990, the Company began to produce heavyweight cotton jersey
products suitable for outerwear in order to diversify its product mix, more
efficiently utilize its manufacturing base and increase sales and profitability.
Today, the Company continues to be an innovator of new products and recently
introduced pique fleece, 100% cotton fleece and cotton/SpandexTM five-way
stretch fleece.
    
 
In addition, the Company believes its ability to collaborate with customers in
developing new styles provides a distinct competitive advantage. As a result of
Pluma's flexible manufacturing capabilities, customers often select the Company
as their "manufacturer of choice" for its ability to develop specialized
products that meet customers' cost, quality and delivery criteria.
 
INDUSTRY
 
   
The Company competes in the growing activewear sector of the apparel industry.
According to SPORTING GOODS MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION ("SGMA"), retail sales of
activewear increased from $34.4 billion in 1994 to $37.6 billion in 1995. In
particular, according to SGMA, industry sales for fleecewear increased from $4.9
billion to $5.1 billion, while jersey sales also increased from $11.5 billion to
$12.3 billion over the same period. SGMA estimates that sales of activewear
increased approximately 5% in 1996 to $40 billion.
    
 
   
The growth of the fleece and jersey activewear industry is attributable to
several factors. First, the trends toward increased physical fitness and the
"casualization of America" have resulted in fleece and jersey apparel's becoming
more acceptable as daily attire. In particular, the popularity of branded
activewear products from companies such as adidas, Nike and Reebok has also
increased significantly. Second, the versatility of fleece and jersey fabric,
coupled with technological advances in product development and manufacturing,
has significantly improved product design and quality, resulting in increased
consumer demand. Finally, although design detailing may change, basic styles of
fleece and jersey activewear are not primarily driven by fashion trends or fads,
which contributes to the stability of product demand.
    
 
In recent years, the fleece and jersey activewear industry has been impacted by
several trends. Consumers are increasingly demanding greater value in the form
of higher quality goods with more variety at fair prices. In particular,
consumers are seeking fuller cut products in heavier, more shrink-resistant
fabrics, with cotton-dominant blends becoming the fabric of choice.
 
Meanwhile, distribution channels to reach consumers have become more
diversified. Historically, fleece and jersey apparel was distributed
predominantly through department stores, specialty retailers and sporting goods
chains. However today, as value-oriented retailing concepts proliferate, mass
merchandisers, wholesale clubs, discount retailers and other distribution
channels represent a growing customer base for manufacturers. As a result,
retailers are demanding a wider range of products to target specific consumer
markets.
 
In response to these emerging trends, competitive manufacturers have adjusted
their business strategies. In order to meet consumer demands for higher quality
without increases in pricing, manufacturers have upgraded their production
processes by investing in new equipment and technology. In addition, the
increasing breadth and diversity of distribution channels have required
successful manufacturers to become more flexible in new product development,
manufacturing and distribution to meet customers' requirements. The Company
believes that its growth strategy positions it to capitalize on these industry
trends.
 
                                       21
 
<PAGE>
BUSINESS STRATEGY
 
The Company is focused on increasing sales and profitability by offering high
value products to a diverse customer base. The principal elements of this
strategy are:
 
PRODUCING HIGH QUALITY PRODUCTS
 
   
Pluma is recognized as a manufacturer of high quality products across all of its
price points by today's value-conscious customers. Examples of Pluma's emphasis
on quality exist throughout its design and manufacturing processes. Pluma's
fleece and jersey activewear meet consumer preferences for heavier weights and
higher cotton content and are fuller cut than industry standards. The Company
incorporates SpandexTM in its ribbed fabric, which enables it to retain shape.
Pluma produces higher stitch count fabrics to reduce shrinkage and increase
softness. Pluma's advanced sewing processes add greater product detail and
durability.
    
 
INCREASING SALES THROUGH A DIVERSE CUSTOMER BASE
 
   
Pluma targets a diverse customer base across multiple markets and distribution
channels. Currently, Pluma's significant customers include branded customers
such as adidas, Nike, Reebok and Starter , retailers such as Miller's Outpost
and Sam's Club and entertainment customers such as Busch Gardens, Hard Rock Cafe
and Walt Disney. In addition, Pluma sells to wholesale distributors,
screenprinters and embroiderers who sell the Company's products to a wide
variety of retailers, ranging from small souvenir and resort stores to large
nationwide department stores. Pluma seeks to grow both by increasing sales to
existing customers and by adding new customers. The Company's diverse customer
base provides product exposure to many consumer markets and enables Pluma to
balance its production more evenly throughout the year, thereby improving sales
and profitability.
    
 
DEVELOPING NEW PRODUCTS AND STYLES
 
   
Pluma is an innovator of new products of various fabric weights and blends, as
well as unique styles, that are often designed exclusively for its customers to
meet their individual needs. Typically, the Company's new products and styles
command higher prices resulting in better margins. Additionally, new products
initially manufactured for a single customer frequently become popular with
other customers. The Company was one of the first to introduce heavyweight,
fuller cut fleece products at attractive price points and fleecewear with higher
cotton content. Pluma was also one of the first to produce heavyweight cotton
jersey products suitable for outerwear. Today, the Company continues to be an
innovator of new products and recently introduced pique fleece, 100% cotton
fleece and cotton/SpandexTM blend five-way stretch fleece. In addition, the
ability to customize efficiently new product styles that meet stringent customer
standards enables the Company not only to attract new customers, but also to
cross-sell its more basic products.
    
 
CAPITALIZING ON FLEXIBLE MANUFACTURING CAPABILITIES
 
Pluma manufactures products that meet customers' cost, quality and delivery
criteria, ranging from highly customized products to more basic fleece and
jersey apparel. Using proprietary equipment and advanced manufacturing
processes, Pluma has the flexibility to shift its knitting, dyeing and sewing
operations between various fabric weights, blends and styles, as well as between
fleece and jersey products, with minimal downtime. These capabilities allow
Pluma to service effectively and efficiently its diverse customer base, thus
maintaining a significant competitive advantage.
 
INVESTING IN ADVANCED TECHNOLOGIES
 
The Company continues to upgrade its manufacturing, distribution and management
information systems as proven cost and quality related advances become
available. The Company has made significant investments to improve efficiencies
including (i) upgrading knitting equipment, (ii) adding computerized monitoring
and control systems for its dyeing processes, (iii) improving sewing and cutting
processes with new machines and other modern innovations, such as its patented
tandem sewing table, and (iv) automating and computerizing order processing and
distribution. As a result, Pluma believes that its manufacturing and
distribution processes are among the most modern in the industry. In addition,
the Company is in the process of implementing a new management information
system to enhance the timing and accuracy of its controls.
 
PRODUCTS
 
Pluma's high quality fleece and jersey activewear meet consumer preferences for
heavier weights and higher cotton content. The Company's fleece products include
a variety of styles and colors of tops and bottoms in seven and one-half, nine,
ten and eleven ounce weights in cotton/polyester blends ranging from 50%
cotton/50% polyester to 100% cotton. Pluma also manufactures five and one-half
and seven ounce 100% cotton jersey tops and bottoms designed for outerwear.
 
                                       22
 
<PAGE>
The Company believes that certain design and construction features enhance the
quality and appeal of its products relative to most competitors:
 
      (Bullet) Pluma's fleece and jersey tops are fuller cut and heavier weight.
 
      (Bullet) Pluma produces higher stitch count fabrics to reduce shrinkage,
               provide a better printing surface and increase softness.
 
      (Bullet) Pluma uses air jet spun yarn for its 50% cotton/50% polyester
               fleece fabric to prevent pilling.
 
      (Bullet) All of Pluma's ribbed fabrics contain Spandex(tm) to retain
               shape.
 
      (Bullet) Pluma uses greater detail in its sewing processes to enhance
               durability and appearance.
 
      (Bullet) Pluma utilizes advanced finishing techniques, including the
               application of softeners and napping (brushing), to give its
               fleece fabrics more bulk and softer texture.
 
   
The sales mix of fleece and jersey products for the three years ended December
31, 1996, in sales, gross dozens sold, excluding close-outs and irregulars, and
the average sales price per dozen is as follows:
    
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                   YEARS ENDED DECEMBER 31,
                                                   1996                                     1995                      1994
IN THOUSANDS,                                                  AVG.                      GROSS          AVG.
EXCEPT AVERAGE SALES PRICE PER                             SALES PRICE/                  DOZENS     SALES PRICE/
DOZEN                               SALES                     DOZEN          SALES        SOLD         DOZEN          SALES
                                                GROSS
                                                DOZENS
                                                 SOLD
Fleece                             $ 80,423       871      $ 92.41          $ 70,634       826      $ 85.50          $79,040
<S>                                <C>          <C>        <C>              <C>          <C>        <C>              <C>
Jersey                               46,803       765      61.16              29,989       480      62.43             15,819
Total/Avg.                         $127,226     1,636      $ 77.79          $100,623     1,306      $ 77.01          $94,859
 
<CAPTION>
                                          1994
IN THOUSANDS,                      GROSS          AVG.
EXCEPT AVERAGE SALES PRICE PER     DOZENS     SALES PRICE/
DOZEN                               SOLD         DOZEN
Fleece                               900      $ 87.80
<S>                               <C>      <C>
Jersey                               293      53.99
Total/Avg.                         1,193      $ 79.50
</TABLE>
    
 
Historically, the Company's sales have been derived predominantly from fleece
products. However, since introducing jersey products in 1990, the Company has
increased jersey sales in order to diversify its product mix, more efficiently
utilize its manufacturing base and reduce the impact of seasonality that is
inherent in the fleece industry. Generally, jersey products sell at lower price
points and generate lower profit margins than fleece.
 
   
As of December 31, 1996 and 1995, the Company had backlog orders of
approximately 320,899 dozens, or approximately $22.7 million, and 353,034 dozens
or approximately $21.9 million, respectively. Backlogs are computed from orders
on hand at the last day of each fiscal period. The Company believes that as a
result of the seasonality and the just-in-time nature of its business, order
backlogs are not a reliable indicator of future sales volume.
    
 
SALES AND MARKETING
 
The Company's sales and marketing efforts are directed by its marketing
department headquartered in Martinsville, Virginia. The sales office is
comprised of nine employees who are involved in day-to-day sales efforts and
customer service activities.
 
Unlike many of its competitors, Pluma maintains a centralized sales office
organized around customer accounts rather than using a regional sales office
strategy. By maintaining a centralized location, management believes that the
Company can implement better its sales strategy which requires that each of its
salespeople be informed about and involved with all of the Company's market
segments and customers. This structure allows the Company to be more flexible in
responding to customers' needs and to operate more efficiently with a smaller
sales staff.
 
CUSTOMERS
 
   
Pluma targets a diverse customer base which is composed of five primary markets:
branded; retailers; screenprinters and embroiderers; wholesale distributors and
entertainment. As a result of Pluma's ability to customize products according to
its customers' needs, it is focusing on increasing sales to its branded and
retailer customers, which produce higher gross margins.
    
 
   
For the years ended December 31, 1996, 1995 and 1994, Pluma's top ten customers
accounted for 75.5%, 75.6% and 67.6%, respectively, of the Company's net sales
and 65.4%, 78.2% and 74.6%, respectively, of its accounts receivable. For the
year ended December 31, 1996, the Company's top three customers, Sam's Club,
adidas and Frank L. Robinson, accounted for 24.1%, 14.7% and 7.2%, respectively,
of the Company's net sales. For the year ended December 31, 1995, the Company's
top three customers, Sam's Club, Frank L. Robinson and Starter Galt accounted
for 16.1%, 12.8% and 11.4%, respectively, of the Company's net sales.
    
 
                                       23
 
<PAGE>
   
For the year ended December 31, 1994, the Company's top three customers, Frank
L. Robinson, Starter Galt and adidas, accounted for 13.2%, 10.4% and 10.1%,
respectively, of the Company's net sales. Pluma provides products to its
customers pursuant to purchase orders on an as-needed basis.
    
 
   
BRANDED
    
 
   
Branded accounts consist of customers such as adidas, Nike, Reebok and Starter.
These accounts require the manufacturer to meet exact specifications, such as
styling, color, screenprinting and embroidery. Products are labeled, packaged
and shipped ready for sale to consumers. The Company's ability to accommodate
the specialized nature of products manufactured for these customers often
results in higher margins. Branded accounts constituted approximately 20.6% of
the Company's net sales for the year ended December 31, 1996 and 10.1% for the
same periods in 1995 and 1994, respectively.
    
 
RETAILERS
 
   
Retail customers include specialty, high-end and value-oriented retailers. The
Company's largest retail customer in 1996 was Sam's Club, which markets and
sells "Pluma" labeled products. Pluma's other retail customers include Miller's
Outpost, which sells its own private label products manufactured by Pluma or
products with Pluma's "SANTEE" label. The Company believes that this market
segment holds significant opportunity for growth as other value-oriented retail
formats continue to grow in popularity. Retail customers constituted
approximately 33.7% of the Company's net sales for the year ended December 31,
1996 and 27.5% and 21.2% for the same periods in 1995 and 1994, respectively. As
a result of the growth of the Company's business with Sam's Club, coupled with
increased consumer recognition of the "Pluma" brand name, the Company has
granted a license to Kayser Roth Corporation ("Kayser Roth") that allows it to
manufacture and distribute socks to Sam's Club under the "Pluma" brand name. See
"Business -- Trademarks and Licenses."
    
 
   
SCREENPRINTERS AND EMBROIDERERS
    
 
   
Screenprinters and embroiderers include Starter Galt and PM Enterprises among
others. These customers typically purchase basic products to which they add
designs and logos; they then resell these products to a wide variety of
retailers, ranging from small souvenir and resort stores to large, nationwide
department stores. Certain screenprinters and embroiderers resell under Pluma's
"SANTEE" label. Screenprinters and embroiderers constituted approximately 19.7%
of the Company's net sales for the year ended December 31, 1996 and 26.7% and
33.1% for the same periods in 1995 and 1994, respectively.
    
 
WHOLESALE DISTRIBUTORS
 
   
Wholesale distributors include Frank L. Robinson Company, Skyline and Stardust.
These customers generally purchase goods in large volume for further
distribution to companies such as Guess?, as well as to small customers, which
are typically more difficult for the Company to service. All products sold to
these customers contain Pluma's "SANTEE" label, which is becoming more
recognizable by consumers. Wholesale distributors constituted approximately
17.6% of the Company's net sales for the year ended December 31, 1996 and 22.8%
and 25.7% for the same periods in 1995 and 1994, respectively.
    
 
   
ENTERTAINMENT
    
 
   
Entertainment accounts consist of customers such as Busch Gardens, Hard Rock
Cafe and Walt Disney. This market segment demands a basic product on which
designs are printed or embroidered for souvenir sales. Demand for goods sold to
this market segment is relatively consistent throughout the year. Entertainment
accounts constituted approximately 8.4% of the Company's net sales for the year
ended December 31, 1996 and 12.9% and 9.8% for the same periods in 1995 and
1994, respectively.
    
 
   
MANUFACTURING
    
 
Pluma is a vertically integrated manufacturer. The Company's manufacturing
process consists of knitting, dyeing, finishing, cutting and sewing. Using
proprietary equipment and advanced manufacturing processes, Pluma has the
flexibility to shift its knitting, dyeing and sewing operations between various
fabric weights, blends and styles, as well as between fleece and jersey, with
minimal downtime. These capabilities allow Pluma to service effectively and
efficiently its diverse customer base.
 
Pluma currently manufactures all of its products domestically at sites within
close proximity to each other and uses technologically advanced equipment and
sophisticated production scheduling systems. Several of the Company's
competitors have chosen to move some of their production offshore. The Company,
however, believes that its strategy improves the Company's ability to service
its customers' just-in-time delivery requirements, minimizes transportation
costs and offsets most of the advantages of lower labor cost inherent in
offshore production.
 
                                       24
 
<PAGE>
The Company believes it has the manufacturing capacity to increase sales by
approximately 10% to 15% without any significant capital expenditures based upon
its current product mix and prices. By adding equipment, the Company believes it
has the capacity to increase sales by an additional 30% to 40% without the need
for additional manufacturing space.
 
   
Pluma's vertically integrated manufacturing process includes the following:
    
 
KNITTING
 
The Company operates modern, high-speed circular knitting machines that produce
various types of fabric in its manufacturing facilities in Eden, North Carolina.
The circular knitting process eliminates the need for side-seaming, reduces
waste and, consequently, lowers production costs. The Company is in the process
of purchasing new knitting equipment and components that should increase
efficiency in its knitting operations. Proprietary knitting processes enable the
Company to change its production with minimal downtime for setup. The Company
can shift its knitting processes between various fabric blends, weights and
styles, as well as between fleece and jersey fabrics, without significant loss
of utilization. Pluma uses Spandex(tm) in all of its ribbed fabrics to retain
shape and produces high stitch count fabrics, which results in lower shrinkage,
a better printing surface and a softer feel.
 
DYEING
 
The Company believes that its computer-controlled, pressurized dyeing operations
in Eden, North Carolina, are state-of-the-art. Computerized controls reduce
processing time and improve control of dyeing cycles, temperatures, water
pressure and chemical usage, thereby producing greater color consistency and
minimizing waste. In addition, the Company's pressurized dyeing process
increases bulking, which reduces shrinkage and color bleeding of its fabrics.
 
FINISHING
 
The finishing process consists of extracting, drying, napping (brushing) and
compacting the fabric. The extraction process involves the addition of fabric
softeners to ensure that the fabric retains its softness during the drying
process. Fleece fabrics are then napped to produce a soft and heavy feel. Also,
fabrics are compacted to minimize shrinkage and increase stability.
 
CUTTING
 
Pluma's cutting operation in Eden, North Carolina, uses Bierrebi automatic
continuous-cutting machines with computer-controlled hydraulic die-cutting
heads. In addition, Pluma is adding a Gerber cutting system that will interface
with its computerized pattern design process. The Company utilizes these
machines to improve consistency and efficiency and generate less waste. Manual
cutting is used to provide flexibility to process low-volume orders.
 
SEWING
 
The Company's sewing facilities are in Eden, North Carolina, and in
Martinsville, Rocky Mount, Chatham, Vesta and Altavista, Virginia. Pluma's
sewing operations begin with the preassembly of component parts utilizing
computerized sewing equipment. Preassembled parts are then sewn using the
Company's proprietary tandem sewing process or conventional sewing. Management
believes that its tandem sewing process is unique and gives the Company a
competitive advantage in sewing operations by enhancing product quality and
manufacturing flexibility.
 
Pluma's proprietary tandem sewing process utilizes the Company's patented tandem
sewing table. This proprietary equipment allows operators to move rapidly
between sewing steps to reduce further assembly time. The table is easily
adjustable to accommodate different operators' physical characteristics,
minimizing downtime between shifts and thereby facilitating multishift
operations.
 
   
The Company engages independent sewing contractors for low volume, special style
products that require specific equipment. These independent contractors also
assist the Company during peak manufacturing periods by providing additional
capacity. Approximately 16.0%, 14.9% and 17.6% of the Company's products were
sewn by independent contractors in 1996, 1995 and 1994, respectively.
    
 
   
The Company hires independent embroidery and screen printing subcontractors to
print or embroider special images on products ordered by certain of its
entertainment and branded accounts. The Company believes that it is more cost
effective to outsource these services.
    
 
                                       25
 
<PAGE>
PACKAGING AND DISTRIBUTION
 
   
Pluma operates a three-building complex in Martinsville, Virginia, which serves
as its central packaging and distribution facility. The complex contains
approximately 462,950 square feet of packing and storage space.
    
 
The packaging process includes folding, tagging, bagging, packing and bar
coding. The Company's packaging operation employs automated folding machines and
other technologically advanced equipment that package products efficiently.
 
Pluma uses computers, scanners, radios, conveyor systems and order pickers to
track, locate and move products within its facilities and to the loading docks
for shipping. One conveyor system links two facilities, thereby significantly
reducing handling time.
 
The Company leases a fleet of 11 tractors and 63 trailers and owns five trailers
and two trucks to transport materials between plants, as necessary. It relies
upon common carriers for delivery to its customers.
 
MANAGEMENT INFORMATION SYSTEMS
 
The Company operates state-of-the-art computer systems for receiving and
tracking customer orders from the moment they are received in the Company's
sales office in Martinsville, Virginia, until final delivery. After a customer's
order is entered in the Company's sales office, it is reviewed at Pluma's main
office in Eden, North Carolina, for customer credit, production scheduling and
delivery. After this process is completed, the order becomes active and is
formally scheduled into production. The Company's proprietary computer program
and sophisticated electronic scanners allow the Company to monitor specific
customer orders during all stages of the manufacturing process from knitting to
sewing and during packaging and distribution.
 
   
During 1996, the Company entered into a license agreement with SAP America, Inc.
("SAP") to use SAP's proprietary financial and manufacturing controls software.
The SAP software is highly portable, operates on the newest client-server
platform and can be utilized internationally. In addition to the license
agreement, the Company executed a professional services agreement with SAP for
consultant services to install and implement the software. The SAP system will
upgrade the Company's production planning and scheduling, sales, distribution
and financial systems. The Company believes that this system will enhance its
ability to meet customer demands more efficiently and better manage the growth
of its business. This system is currently being implemented. Management expects
the system to be operational by January 1998.
    
 
   
Pluma is connected via electronic data interchange ("EDI") with Sam's Club and
is exploring the use of a similar system with wholesale distributors and a
number of its suppliers. Additionally, the Company intends to utilize the
Internet to facilitate customer orders, investor relations and direct sales. The
Company's Internet address is http://www.plumainc.com.
    
 
SOURCES OF RAW MATERIALS
 
Pluma purchases yarn, dye stuffs and chemicals that are the principal raw
materials used in its products. Management believes that there is sufficient
availability of raw materials from a number of suppliers at competitive prices
to satisfy current and anticipated needs of the Company.
 
   
The Company does not spin its own yarn. Yarn spinning is a capital intensive
operation in which there is substantial domestic and foreign competition. The
Company has stable relationships with its principal yarn suppliers and often
makes advance purchases of yarn based on projected demand. The Company has
contracted to purchase substantially all of its projected yarn needs for 1997.
However, should any or all of these suppliers be unable for any reason to
fulfill their obligations under these yarn contracts, the Company believes that
such an occurrence would not have a material adverse effect on the Company's
business as yarn is available to the Company from other suppliers at comparable
prices.
    
 
   
Pluma maintains a five- to ten-day supply of raw material inventories,
minimizing the need for storage space. During 1996, Pluma's principal yarn
suppliers included Unifi, Inc. (Spun Yarn Division), Parkdale Mills, Inc. and,
Mayo Yarns, Inc., and its principal suppliers of dye and chemicals included
Ciba-Geigy, DyStar and Clairiant (formerly Sandoz). The Company anticipates that
these suppliers, as well as others, will continue to supply the Company with raw
material as needed. See "Risk Factors -- Availability and Price of Raw
Materials."
    
 
SEASONALITY
 
The activewear business is seasonal. Typically, demand for fleece products is
much lower during the first and second quarters of each year and is partially
offset by increased demand for jersey products in these periods. Notwithstanding
the Company's efforts to diversify its products and customer base to create a
more consistent demand for its products throughout the year, the Company
produces and stores fleece finished goods inventory during the first half of
each year. This practice enables the
 
                                       26
 
<PAGE>
Company to meet the heavy demand for delivery during the second half of the
year. See "Risk Factors -- Impact of Seasonality."
 
COMPETITION
 
The fleece and jersey activewear industry is highly competitive. Pluma's major
competitors are vertically integrated manufacturers such as Fruit of the Loom,
Oneita, Russell, Sara Lee, Tultex and VF. Certain of these competitors have
greater financial resources and larger manufacturing, distribution and marketing
capabilities than the Company. Among other factors, the Company's future success
will depend to a significant extent upon its ability to remain competitive in
the areas of price, quality, marketing, product development, manufacturing
capabilities, distribution and order processing, which are the principal methods
of competing within the fleece and jersey apparel industry. See "Risk
Factors -- Competition."
 
ENVIRONMENTAL MATTERS
 
The Company is subject to various federal, state and local environmental laws
and regulations governing, among other things, the discharge, storage, handling
and disposal of a variety of hazardous and nonhazardous substances and wastes
used in or resulting from its operations and potential remediation obligations
thereunder. At the Company's textile manufacturing facility in Eden, North
Carolina, the Company disposes of dye waste through the city's municipal
wastewater treatment system under a permit issued by state regulatory
authorities.
 
The Company's operations also are governed by laws and regulations relating to
employee safety and health, principally OSHA and regulations thereunder, which,
among other things, establish exposure limitations for cotton dust,
formaldehyde, asbestos and noise, and regulate chemical and ergonomic hazards in
the workplace. See "Risk Factors -- Environmental Controls and Other Regulatory
Requirements."
 
PROPERTIES
 
   
All of the Company's facilities are located in North Carolina and Virginia. All
buildings are well maintained and several of its facilities have been expanded
since operations commenced therein to accommodate the Company's growth. The
location, approximate size, owned or leased status, year in which operations
commenced and use of the Company's principal facilities are summarized in the
following table:
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                    SQUARE                    OPERATIONS
    LOCATION        FOOTAGE     OWNERSHIP     COMMENCED                     USE
<S>                 <C>         <C>           <C>           <C>
Eden, NC            170,900       Owned        1987         Executive offices, sewing, dyeing,
                                                              finishing and cutting
Eden, NC             83,900       Owned        1993         Knitting
Eden, NC             20,600      Leased        1996         Outlet store
Eden, NC             18,000      Leased        1987  (1)    Sewing
Martinsville, VA    198,000      Leased        1996         Distribution and warehouse
Martinsville, VA    181,600      Leased        1988         Distribution, packaging and
                                                              warehouse
Martinsville, VA     83,200      Leased        1994         Packaging, warehouse and management
                                                              information systems
Martinsville, VA     43,900       Owned        1988         Sewing
Martinsville, VA     15,600      Leased        1992         Storage
Martinsville, VA     11,500      Leased        1997         Outlet store
Martinsville, VA      3,900      Leased        1996         Marketing and sales office
Rocky Mount, VA      82,000       Owned        1995         Sewing
Chatham, VA          52,000       Owned        1990         Sewing
Vesta, VA            24,000       Owned        1994         Sewing
Altavista, VA        12,000      Leased        1996         Sewing
</TABLE>
    
 
(1) The Company leased this facility from 1987 through 1993 and subsequently
executed a new lease for this facility in December 1996.
 
LABOR
 
   
The Company had approximately 2,275 employees at December 31, 1996. Management
considers labor relations to be excellent. The Company has no collective
bargaining agreements; however, some of the Company's competitors located in its
geographic area are unionized, and there can be no assurance that the Company
will not become a target for union organizing activity or party to collective
bargaining agreements in the future. To the extent that unionization increases
the Company's cost of operations, the Company would be impacted adversely from
both an operating and financial standpoint.
    
 
                                       27
 
<PAGE>
LITIGATION
 
The Company is not a party to nor is any of its property the subject of any
legal proceedings, the result of which it believes could have a material adverse
impact on its business, properties or financial condition.
 
TRADEMARKS AND LICENSES
 
Pursuant to an agreement effective December 4, 1990 (the "Superba Agreement"),
Superba, Inc. ("Superba") granted to the Company the exclusive right and license
to utilize the name "SANTEE" in connection with the manufacture, sale and
distribution of fleece and jersey products. Superba manufactures neckties and
sport shirts and is the sole owner of all trademark and other proprietary rights
in the name "SANTEE." The term of this license is perpetual. The Company paid a
one-time fee of $20,000 in consideration for the grant of the rights described
above and has no continuing obligations for the payment of royalties in
connection with the use of the name "SANTEE." Under the terms of the Superba
Agreement, Superba retained the right to utilize the name "SANTEE" for
commercial purposes, provided such use is not competitive with the Company in
the fleece and jersey apparel industry. Superba is obligated to renew the
trademark registration (at Superba's expense) upon its expiration.
 
The Company claims common law proprietary rights to the name "Pluma;" however,
at this time, the Company does not own any registered trademark rights to the
name "Pluma." Furthermore there was a registered owner of the name "Peso Pluma."
However, in November 1994, the Company filed a proceeding with the United States
Patent and Trademark Office ("USPTO") alleging that the owner of the name "Peso
Pluma" abandoned its right to such name and requesting that such rights be
canceled. This proceeding was determined favorably to the Company, which has
filed an application with the USPTO for trademark protection related to the name
"Pluma." The Company believes that such protection will be granted in the first
quarter of 1997.
 
The Company has filed an application with the USPTO for trademark protection for
the trademark "SNOWBANK." The application has been approved pending submission
of an acceptable statement of use after actual use of this trademark has begun,
which will occur in early 1997. "SNOWBANK" will be utilized in connection with
marketing certain styles of the Company's activewear.
 
On October 24, 1995, the Company entered into a license agreement with Kayser
Roth granting to Kayser Roth a limited exclusive license to use the name "Pluma"
in connection with the manufacture and sale of socks in the United States and
Mexico to Sam's Club (the "Kayser Roth Agreement"). The Company made no
representations to Kayser Roth related to its ownership rights in the name
"Pluma," and has no liability to Kayser Roth or Sam's Club in the event superior
rights to the name "Pluma" are established by another company. The Company
receives a royalty from Kayser Roth equal to 2.0% of net sales of socks bearing
the Pluma label up to $3,000,000 of such sales and 1.5% of all net sales of
socks thereafter (in each case, less customary trade discounts, shipping
charges, returns and allowances and sales taxes). The Kayser Roth Agreement
terminates on December 31, 1998, but is renewable by Kayser Roth for successive
one-year terms thereafter. The Company maintains appropriate quality control
standards in the Kayser Roth Agreement designed to ensure that only quality
products are distributed under the "Pluma" name.
 
   
On July 30, 1996, U.S. Patent No. 5,540,160 was issued by the USPTO for the
Company's tandem sewing table. See "Business -- Manufacturing."
    
 
                                       28
 
<PAGE>
                                   MANAGEMENT
 
EXECUTIVE OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS
 
Set forth below are the names, ages, positions and brief descriptions of
business experience of the Company's executive officers and directors:
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
NAME                                           AGE    POSITION
<S>                                          <C>      <C>
George G. Wade                                    63  Chairman Emeritus of the Board, Secretary and Director
G. Walker Box                                     46  Chairman of the Board of Directors
R. Duke Ferrell, Jr.                              44  President, Chief Executive Officer and Director
C. Monroe Light                                   56  Executive Vice President of Manufacturing and Director
Forrest H. Truitt, II                             42  Executive Vice President, Treasurer and Chief Financial Officer
Milton A. Barber, IV                              36  Vice President of Sales and Marketing
Nancy B. Barksdale                                39  Vice President and Controller
Jeffrey D. Cox                                    41  Vice President of Manufacturing
David S. Green                                    46  Vice President of Human Resources
Walter E. Helton                                  57  Vice President of Operations
Raymond L. Rea                                    55  Vice President of Manufacturing
Barry A. Bowles                                   51  Director
Kemp D. Box                                       42  Director
David C. Jones, D.D.S.                            50  Director
William K. Mileski                                54  Director
R. Stephens Pannill                               50  Director
J. Robert Philpott, Jr.                           50  Director
</TABLE>
    
 
GEORGE G. WADE, a founder of the Company, served as Chairman of the Company's
Board of Directors until January 1996, when he became Chairman Emeritus. Mr.
Wade served as the Company's President and Chief Executive Officer from January
1987, until he relinquished the titles of Chief Executive Officer and President
in September 1993 to become the Company's Secretary. Mr. Wade is a member of the
Company's Strategic Planning Committee. Mr. Wade was employed by Bassett-Walker,
Inc. from 1956 to 1986.
 
G. WALKER BOX, a founder of the Company, has served as a member of the Board
since 1987 and became Chairman of the Company's Board of Directors in January
1996. He is a member of the Company's Nominating Committee and Strategic
Planning Committee. Mr. Box was employed by Bassett-Walker, Inc. from 1973 to
1986 when he became the President of Box-Ferrell and Company, the Company's
first exclusive sales agent. Mr. Box is President of Box & Company which served
as the Company's exclusive sales agent from 1991 until December 1995. Mr. Box is
also a member of the Board of Directors of the North Carolina Textile
Foundation. Mr. Box is the brother of Kemp D. Box, a Director of the Company.
 
R. DUKE FERRELL, JR., a founder of the Company, has been the Company's President
since January 1992 and its Chief Executive Officer since September 1993. He
served as the Company's Executive Vice President and Chief Operating Officer
from 1991 until he became President of the Company and is a member of the Board
of Directors, serving on its Nominating Committee and Strategic Planning
Committee. In 1987, Mr. Ferrell was employed by Box-Ferrell and Company until
his employment by Pluma as Executive Vice President and Chief Operating Officer.
He was employed by Bassett-Walker, Inc. from 1982 to 1986.
 
   
C. MONROE LIGHT, a founder of the Company, has been Vice President of
Manufacturing responsible for yarn sourcing and knitting and a Director since
1987. He became an Executive Vice President in January 1996. Mr. Light was
employed from 1960 to 1986 by Bassett-Walker, Inc. He serves on the Company's
Strategic Planning Committee.
    
 
   
FORREST H. TRUITT, II became Vice President, Treasurer and Chief Financial
Officer in March 1996 and became an Executive Vice President in January 1997.
From February 1994 until he joined the Company, Mr. Truitt was a self-employed
financial consultant. Prior to that time, he served as the Chief Financial
Officer of Mayo Yarns from September 1993 to February 1994, and Vice President
of Finance and Secretary/Treasurer of Vintage Yarns, Inc. from 1982 until 1993.
    
 
                                       29
 
<PAGE>
   
MILTON A. BARBER, IV became Vice President of Sales and Marketing in January
1996. From July 1991 until December 1995, Mr. Barber served as an Assistant Vice
President of Sales and Marketing for Box & Company. Mr. Barber was employed by
Bassett-Walker, Inc. from 1987 until 1991.
    
 
NANCY B. BARKSDALE is Vice President and Controller. From 1979 to 1983, Ms.
Barksdale was a staff accountant for Deloitte & Touche LLP. She received her CPA
certification from the Commonwealth of Virginia in 1983. From 1983 until 1987,
Ms. Barksdale was employed by Bassett-Walker, Inc. as Assistant Controller.
Since 1987, Ms. Barksdale has served as Controller for Pluma, and served as
Treasurer from August 1993 until March 1996. She was promoted to Vice President
in January 1996.
 
JEFFREY D. COX became the Company's Vice President of Manufacturing responsible
for dyeing and finishing operations in January 1996. Before that date, Mr. Cox
served the Company as superintendent of dyeing and finishing from September 1991
through December 1994 and as Assistant Vice President responsible for dyeing and
finishing from January 1995 through December 1995. Prior to joining the Company
in 1991, he was employed at Ciba-Geigy from February 1989 to August 1991.
 
DAVID S. GREEN is Vice President of Human Resources. Prior to joining the
Company in 1993, Mr. Green had been employed by Sara Lee for 17 years where his
most recent title was Director of Employee Relations at the Martinsville,
Virginia knitwear division.
 
WALTER E. HELTON is Vice President of Operations responsible for management
information systems and distribution. Before joining the Company in January
1992, Mr. Helton was employed by Sara Lee as Director of Information Systems.
 
RAYMOND L. REA is Vice President of Manufacturing responsible for all sewing
operations. Prior to his employment with the Company in 1987, Mr. Rea had been
employed by Bassett-Walker, Inc. for 25 years.
 
   
BARRY A. BOWLES became a member of the Board of Directors in 1988 and is the
chairman of the Compensation Committee and a member of the Nominating Committee.
Mr. Bowles is Chairman of the Board of Directors of Stanley W. Bowles
Corporation, a general construction contractor by which he has been employed
since 1967.
    
 
KEMP D. BOX became a member of the Board of Directors in 1988 and is a member of
the Audit Committee. He is a private investor. Mr. Box is the brother of G.
Walker Box, who is a Director and executive officer of the Company.
 
DAVID C. JONES, D.D.S. became a member of the Board of Directors in 1994 and has
been engaged in the private practice of orthodontics since 1978. He serves as a
member of the Compensation Committee.
 
WILLIAM K. MILESKI, a founder of the Company, has served as a member of the
Board of Directors since 1987 and is a member of the Audit Committee. He was
Vice President of the Company responsible for dyeing, finishing and cutting
operations from 1987 until he left the Company in December 1995 to found
Meritage, LLC, a contract garment-dyeing company.
 
R. STEPHENS PANNILL became a member of the Board of Directors in 1988 and is the
chairman of the Audit Committee and a member of the Nominating Committee. Mr.
Pannill is a private investor.
 
J. ROBERT PHILPOTT, JR. became a director in April 1996. Mr. Philpott is
President, Treasurer and a director of Philpott, Ball & Company ("Philpott,
Ball") , a private investment banking firm that he co-founded in 1991. Philpott,
Ball has served as a financial adviser to the Company since 1991, providing
corporate financial advisory services and valuations of Company stock from time
to time. Prior to founding Philpott, Ball, Mr. Philpott was a Senior Vice
President and Managing Director of Interstate/Johnson Lane, Capital Markets
Group. Mr. Philpott is a member of the Compensation and Strategic Planning
Committees.
 
   
The Board of Directors of the Company (the "Board") is currently composed of ten
directors, four of whom are employees of the Company. The Company's Bylaws
provide that the Board shall be divided into three classes designed to contain a
relatively equal number of members, with the term of each class expiring in
successive years. See "Description of Capital Stock -- Board of Directors."
Subject to the terms of certain employment agreements to which certain of the
executive officers are a party, the Company's executive officers serve at the
discretion of the Board. See "Management -- Employment Agreements, Change of
Control Arrangements."
    
 
COMMITTEES OF THE BOARD OF DIRECTORS
 
The Company's Board of Directors currently has four committees: an Audit
Committee, Compensation Committee, Nominating Committee and Strategic Planning
Committee.
 
                                       30
 
<PAGE>
   
The Company's Board of Directors established an Audit Committee in March 1994.
The responsibilities of the Audit Committee include recommending to the Board of
Directors the independent public accountants to be selected to conduct the
annual audit of the Company's financial statements, reviewing the proposed scope
of such audit and approving the audit fees to be paid. This committee is also
responsible for reviewing the adequacy and effectiveness of the internal
auditing, accounting and financial controls of the Company with the independent
public accountants and the Company's financial and accounting staff and
reviewing and approving transactions between the Company and its directors,
officers and their affiliates. The Audit Committee consists exclusively of
outside directors who are R. Stephens Pannill (chairman), Kemp D. Box and
William K. Mileski.
    
 
The Company's Board of Directors established a Compensation Committee in April
1989. The Compensation Committee provides a general review of the Company's
compensation plans to ensure that they meet corporate objectives. The
responsibilities of the Compensation Committee also include administering the
Company's Senior Executive Bonus Plan, Sales Incentive Plan, Non-Qualified
Deferred Compensation Plan and 1995 Stock Option Plan, including selecting the
officers and salaried employees to whom bonuses and stock options will be
granted. The Compensation Committee consists exclusively of outside directors
who are Barry A. Bowles (chairman), David C. Jones, D.D.S. and J. Robert
Philpott, Jr. See "Management -- Compensation Committee, Interlocks and Insider
Participation."
 
The Company's Board of Directors established a Nominating Committee in January
1994. The Nominating Committee is responsible for making recommendations to the
Board of Directors concerning executive officer appointments. The Nominating
Committee consists of R. Duke Ferrell, Jr. (chairman), Barry A. Bowles, G.
Walker Box and R. Stephens Pannill.
 
The Company's Board of Directors also established a Strategic Planning Committee
in October 1996. This Committee is responsible for monitoring industry trends
and making recommendations to the Company's Board of Directors regarding Company
actions designed to enable the Company to compete effectively in the future. The
Strategic Planning Committee consists of G. Walker Box, R. Duke Ferrell, Jr., C.
Monroe Light, J. Robert Philpott, Jr. and George G. Wade.
 
EXECUTIVE COMPENSATION
 
The following table sets forth information concerning all cash and non-cash
compensation awarded to, earned by or paid to the Company's Chief Executive
Officer and the four most highly compensated executive officers other than the
Chief Executive Officer (the "Named Officers"), for services rendered to the
Company during 1996, 1995 and 1994:
 
                           SUMMARY COMPENSATION TABLE
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>

                                                                                LONG-TERM
                                                                             COMPENSATION
                                                     ANNUAL COMPENSATION       SECURITIES
                                                                     (1)       UNDERLYING            ALL OTHER
NAME AND POSITION                        YEAR        SALARY    BONUS (2)      OPTIONS (#)     COMPENSATION (3)
<S>                                      <C>      <C>          <C>           <C>              <C>
G. Walker Box                            1996(4)   $196,500     $229,667               --               $1,278
  Chairman of the Board                  1995            --           --           44,160                   --
                                         1994            --           --               --                   --
 
R. Duke Ferrell, Jr.                     1996       196,500      229,667               --                2,200
  President, Chief Executive             1995       192,520      118,164           44,160                1,857
  Officer and Director                   1994       179,925       32,887               --                1,280
 
George G. Wade                           1996       189,200      221,135               --                5,428
  Chairman Emeritus of the               1995       185,323       80,760           44,160                4,513
  Board, Secretary and Director          1994       179,925       26,309               --                3,023
 
C. Monroe Light                          1996       168,000      196,357               --                5,304
  Executive Vice President of            1995       153,465       66,877           44,160                2,451
  Manufacturing and Director             1994       146,157       16,546               --                2,242
 
Milton A. Barber, IV                     1996(5)    165,000       59,348(6)            --                  316
  Vice President of Sales                1995            --           --           14,720                   --
  and Marketing                          1994            --           --               --                   --
</TABLE>
    
 
                                       31
 
<PAGE>
(1) Certain of the Company's executive officers receive personal benefits in
addition to salary and cash bonuses, including car allowances. The aggregate
amount of such personal benefits, however, do not exceed the lesser of $50,000
or 10.0% of the total of the annual salary and bonus reported for the named
executive officer.
 
(2) Bonuses are reflected in the year in which they are earned and are paid in
the following year.
 
(3) These amounts represent the Company's contribution to the Company's 401(k)
plan and the payment of premiums on split-dollar life insurance policies owned
by the employee.
 
   
(4) On January 1, 1996, G. Walker Box became the Chairman of the Company's Board
of Directors and an employee of the Company. Prior to that date, Mr. Box was not
a paid employee of the Company.
    
 
   
(5) On January 1, 1996, Milton A. Barber, IV became a Vice President of the
Company in charge of sales and marketing. Prior to that date, Mr. Barber was not
employed by the Company.
    
 
(6) Mr. Barber is a participant in the Company's Senior Executive Bonus Plan and
Sales Incentive Plan.
 
PLUMA'S SENIOR EXECUTIVE BONUS PLAN
 
   
The Company's Compensation Committee administers Pluma's Senior Executive Bonus
Plan (the "Bonus Plan"), which is designed to create incentive for participants
in the Bonus Plan to increase Company profitability. Participants in the Bonus
Plan are stratified by the Compensation Committee into one of two tiers, based
upon the executive's responsibility, past performance with the Company and
possible impact on Company profitability as a result of his or her executive
position with the Company. Ten executives participated in the Bonus Plan in 1996
(the "Participants").
    
 
   
The "Bonus Pool" available for distribution is determined by reference to the
Company's fiscal year end pre-tax income before bonuses are paid under the Bonus
Plan, as adjusted by adding back to such pre-tax income the Participants' base
salaries paid for the year for which bonuses are calculated. In 1996, a
percentage of this adjusted pre-tax income was the "Compensation Pool" from
which the "Bonus Pool" was determined; however, this percentage could be
increased or decreased, at the discretion of the Compensation Committee, to
adjust for increases or decreases in the number of Participants. The "Bonus
Pool" is then taken from the "Compensation Pool." The "Bonus Pool" is equal to
the amount of the "Compensation Pool" less the sum of all base salaries paid to
the Participants for the year in which bonuses are calculated.
    
 
   
The Compensation Committee allocates the "Bonus Pool" between the two tiers
described above in a discretionary manner, with consideration given to the
number of Participants in each tier as determined at the sole discretion of the
Compensation Committee. In addition, the Compensation Committee and the Board
may grant to the tier 1 Participants an extraordinary bonus ("Bonus Percentage")
equal to a percentage (as determined by the Compensation Committee) of any
annual pre-tax profits earned in excess of a pre-determined pre-tax profit level
(the "Profit Target"). This Bonus Percentage was 10% of pre-tax profits in 1996,
however, the Bonus Percentage shall be determined annually at the discretion of
the Compensation Committee. The Profit Target is determined in the early part of
each fiscal year at the discretion of the Compensation Committee.
    
 
   
Notwithstanding the formulization of the process used to determine bonuses under
the Bonus Plan, the Compensation Committee is allowed discretion to consider or
disregard extraordinary items, usually of a one-time nature, that might either
increase or decrease the amount of the "Compensation Pool."
    
 
PLUMA'S SALES INCENTIVE PLAN
 
The Company's Compensation Committee administers Pluma's Sales Incentive Plan
(the "Sales Incentive Plan") which is designed to create incentive for the
Company's sales staff to increase customer sales. Each year, the Company's
Compensation Committee establishes a base level of annual sales volume (the
"Sales Threshold") upon which the incentive sales bonus is calculated. At each
fiscal year end, the Company subtracts the Sales Threshold from the Company's
actual total net sales for such year. This difference (the "Bonus Base") is the
base amount upon which bonuses are determined for the Company's salespeople. In
the event the Company's actual net sales for a fiscal year exceed the Sales
Threshold, then each Company salesperson is entitled to the payment of a bonus
determined by multiplying his or her base annual salary by a fraction, the
numerator of which is the Bonus Base and the denominator of which is the Sales
Threshold. The Sales Threshold is determined annually by the Company's Board of
Directors after a recommendation from its Compensation Committee.
 
                                       32
 
<PAGE>
   
EMPLOYMENT AGREEMENTS, CHANGE OF CONTROL ARRANGEMENTS
    
 
Pursuant to employment contracts dated December 19, 1996 (the "Employment
Agreements"), George G. Wade, R. Duke Ferrell, Jr., G. Walker Box, C. Monroe
Light, David S. Green, Walter E. Helton, Raymond L. Rea, Nancy B. Barksdale,
Forrest H. Truitt, II, Jeffrey D. Cox and Milton A. Barber, IV (each an
"employee") are employed by the Company in their various executive capacities.
Each of these Employment Agreements, if not sooner terminated (for reasons of
death, disability, change of control or "for cause"), terminates on December 18,
1998. Thereafter an employee's employment may continue until terminated by the
Company or the employee. Under the Employment Agreements, these individuals are
entitled to annual bonus payments pursuant to Pluma's Senior Executive Bonus
Plan and all benefits made available to other senior executives under any
employee benefit plans including the Company's 401(k) Plan, medical expense
reimbursement plans, group life, health, accident, medical, hospitalization and
disability insurance plans. Currently, no senior executive is the beneficiary of
any such plans not made available to all Pluma employees except for Pluma's
Senior Executive Bonus Plan, Non-Qualified Deferred Compensation Plan, Sales
Incentive Plan (with respect to the Company's salespeople) and the split-dollar
insurance policies referenced in note (3) to the Summary Compensation Table.
 
The Company or the employee may terminate his or her Employment Agreement upon a
"change of control" of the Company. A change of control shall mean the
occurrence of any one of the following events:
 
    (1) if any "person," as such term is used in Sections 13(d) and 14(d) of the
    Securities Exchange Act of 1934 (the "Act") (other than the Company, any
    trustee, fiduciary or other person or entity holding securities under any
    employee benefit plan of the Company), together with all "affiliates" and
    "associates" (as such terms are defined in Rule 12b-2 under the Act) of such
    person, shall become the "beneficial owner" (as such term is defined in Rule
    13d-3 under the Act), directly or indirectly, of securities of the Company
    representing 50.0% or more of either (a) the combined voting power of the
    Company's then outstanding securities having the right to vote in an
    election of the Company's Board of Directors ("Voting Securities"), or (b)
    the then outstanding shares of the Company (in either such case other than
    as a result of acquisition of securities directly from the Company); or
 
    (2) if the majority of those persons who, as of January 1, 1996, constituted
    the Company's Board of Directors (the "Incumbent Directors") cease for any
    reason, including, without limitation, as a result of a tender offer, proxy
    contest, merger or similar transaction, to constitute at least a majority of
    the Board of Directors, provided that any person becoming a director of the
    Company subsequent to January 1, 1996, whose election or nomination for
    election was approved by a vote of at least a majority of the Incumbent
    Directors or Directors chosen by the Incumbent Directors shall be considered
    an Incumbent Director; or
 
    (3) if the shareholders of the Company shall approve (a) any consolidation
    or merger of the Company where the shareholders of the Company, immediately
    prior to the consolidation or merger, would not, immediately after the
    consolidation or merger, beneficially own (as such term is defined in Rule
    13d-3 under the Act), directly or indirectly, shares representing in the
    aggregate 50.0% of the voting shares of the corporation issuing cash
    securities in the consolidation or merger (or of its ultimate parent
    corporation, if any), (b) any sale, lease, exchange or other conveyance, in
    a transaction or series of transactions of all or substantially all of the
    assets of the Company, or (c) any plan or proposal for the liquidation or
    dissolution of the Company.
 
Upon termination of the Employment Agreements after a "change of control," if
the employee is eligible (as defined below), the Company shall:
 
    (1) Within 30 days after termination, pay to the employee an amount, in
    cash, equal to: (a) three times the employee's (i) average annual salary for
    the 36-month period prior to such change of control and (ii) any bonuses
    received during the 18 months preceding the effective date of the change of
    control, less (b) 1/36 of the amount calculated in (a) above for each month
    that the employee remains employed with the Company following the effective
    date of the change of control; and
 
    (2) Continue the medical, disability and life insurance benefits the
    employee was receiving at the time of termination for a period of 36 months
    after termination of employment or, if earlier, until the employee has
    commenced employment elsewhere and becomes eligible for participation in the
    medical, disability and life insurance programs, if any, of the successor
    employer. Coverage under the Company's medical, disability and life
    insurance programs shall cease with respect to each such program as the
    employee becomes eligible for the medical, disability and life insurance
    programs, if any, of the successor employer. During the first 18 months of
    such 36-month period, the Company shall be responsible for the costs
    associated with continued insurance coverage for the employee, but only to
    the extent it would have been responsible for such costs if the employee was
    still employed by the Company. The employee shall be responsible for the
    remaining costs. If
 
                                       33
 
<PAGE>
    at the end of 18 months, the employee is still afforded medical, disability
    and life insurance coverage under the Company's insurance programs, the
    Company shall arrange to provide continued coverage under said programs, but
    the employee will be responsible for the total cost of all such continued
    coverage after the first 18-month period.
 
The employee is eligible for the benefits provided above, unless the Company or
the Company's successor, after a change of control, offers the employee a bona
fide employment contract for a term that would expire no earlier than three
years after the effective date of the change of control under the terms of which
the employee would perform the same duties for the same or greater levels of
compensation as were afforded under the terms of the Employment Agreements, and
the employee rejects the offer.
 
The employee's employment may also be terminated under the Employment Agreement
in the event of death, "for cause" or, at the Company's election, in the event
of the employee's long-term disability. In the event of the death of the
employee during employment, the following payments shall be made to the
employee's designated beneficiary, or, in the absence of such designation, to
the estate or other legal representative of the employee: (i) base salary for
the month in which death occurs, and (ii) such bonuses (if any) as have been
earned and not paid at the time of death. Any rights and benefits the employee
or his/her estate or any other person may have under employee benefit plans and
programs of the Company generally applicable in the event of the employee's
death shall be determined in accordance with the terms of such plans and
programs. Except as provided in the Employment Agreement, neither the employee's
estate nor any other person shall have any rights or claims against the Company
in the event of the death of the employee during employment.
 
Upon termination for cause, the employee shall receive his or her base salary
only through the date of termination, and neither the employee nor any other
person shall be entitled to any further payments from the Company for salary,
unpaid bonuses or any other amounts. Any rights and benefits the employee may
have under employee benefit plans and programs of the Company generally
following a termination of the employee's employment for cause shall be
determined in accordance with the terms of such plans and programs.
 
In the event of the employee's disability during his or her employment under the
Employment Agreement, employment may be terminated by the Company. For the first
three months following termination of employment due to disability, the employee
shall be paid the base salary in effect at the time of the commencement of
disability. Thereafter, the employee shall be entitled to benefits in accordance
with and subject to the terms and provisions of the Company's long-term
disability plan for senior management employees, as in effect at the time of the
commencement of disability. If, during the three-month period following a
termination of employment because of disability in which salary continuation
payments are payable by the Company, the employee becomes re-employed (whether
as an employee, partner, consultant or otherwise), any salary or other
remuneration or benefits earned by him or her from such employment or engagement
shall not offset any payments due the employee from the Company as the result of
disability.
 
The Board of Directors believes that these Employment Agreements will enable key
employees to conduct Company business with less concern for personal economic
risk when faced with a possible change of control. Furthermore, it is the
opinion of Pluma's Board of Directors that these agreements also should enhance
the Company's ability to attract new key executives as needed.
 
FISCAL YEAR-END OPTION HOLDINGS
 
The following table sets forth information regarding the exercisable and
unexercisable options to acquire Common Stock held at December 31, 1996 by the
Named Officers.
 
These values have not been, and may never be, realized, as these options have
not been, and may never be, exercised. Actual gains, if any, upon exercise will
depend on the value of Common Stock on the date of any exercise of options. No
options were exercised in 1996.
 
                                       34
 
<PAGE>
                       AGGREGATED OPTION EXERCISES IN THE
                   LAST FISCAL YEAR AND FY-END OPTION VALUES
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>

                                                                                                      UNEXERCISED
                                                                                                      IN-THE-MONEY
                                                                    UNEXERCISED OPTIONS                OPTIONS AT
                                                                       AT FY-END (#)                   FY-END (1)
NAME                                                           EXERCISABLE       UNEXERCISABLE         EXERCISABLE
<S>                                                           <C>                <C>                  <C>
G. Walker Box                                                        8,832              35,328        $          0
George G. Wade                                                      44,160                  --                   0
R. Duke Ferrell, Jr.                                                 8,832              35,328                   0
C. Monroe Light                                                      8,832              35,328                   0
Milton A. Barber, IV                                                 2,944              11,776                   0
 
<CAPTION>
                                                                 UNEXERCISED
                                                                 IN-THE-MONEY
                                                                  OPTIONS AT
                                                                  FY-END (1)
       NAME                                                     UNEXERCISABLE
G. Walker Box                                                     $         0
George G. Wade                                                              0
R. Duke Ferrell, Jr.                                                        0
C. Monroe Light                                                             0
Milton A. Barber, IV                                                        0
</TABLE>
    
 
   
(1) Value of unexercised in-the-money options at fiscal year-end is the
difference between the exercise or base price of such options and an assumed
initial public offering price of $13.00 per share.
    
 
COMPENSATION OF DIRECTORS
 
   
Each non-employee director of the Company receives $10,000 annually for serving
as a director, $750 for each board meeting attended and $500 for each meeting of
any committee of the board attended, except that the Chairman of each committee
is paid $750 for each meeting of his committee which he attends. In addition,
directors may be compensated through stock options. See "Stock Option Plan."
    
 
COMPENSATION COMMITTEE INTERLOCKS AND INSIDER PARTICIPATION
 
   
During the fiscal year ended December 31, 1996, the Company's Compensation
Committee consisted of Barry A. Bowles (chairman), David C. Jones, D.D.S. and J.
Robert Philpott, Jr. Until April 10, 1996, G. Walker Box also served as a member
of this committee.
    
 
   
On December 29, 1995, pursuant to an Agreement of Termination and Release, the
Company terminated the Sales and Marketing Agreement with Box & Company by
paying to Box & Company a cancellation payment in the amount of $2.0 million.
The Company paid Box & Company $1,000 on December 29, 1995, and the balance on
January 30, 1996, pursuant to a promissory note given as a part of the
termination payment. In addition to the $2.0 million termination payment, the
Company paid Box & Company all commissions due under the Sales and Marketing
Agreement for shipments made by the Company to customers prior to December 31,
1995 ("Final Commissions"). The amount of the Final Commissions was $152,418,
which was paid in full on February 5, 1996. Also, as part of the negotiated
settlement related to this termination, Pluma assumed the risk of all customer
returns of products previously shipped (for which commissions had been paid) and
waived any further right of offset against sums due Box & Company as the result
of uncollected accounts receivable due from Pluma's customers (on which
commissions had been paid previously), including the 20/20 Sport accounts
receivable. For a discussion of the 20/20 Sport accounts receivable, see
"Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of
Operations."
    
 
   
North Bowles Partnership is a general partnership of which Barry A. Bowles, a
director of Pluma and chairman of its Compensation Committee, owns a 33.0%
general partnership interest.
    
 
On June 10, 1989, the Company entered into a lease with North Bowles Partnership
for a building located in Martinsville, Virginia, to operate a distribution
center. On December 1, 1990, this lease was amended to add 67,500 square feet to
the building subject to the original lease. The building now contains 181,550
square feet. Rental expense for 1996 was $52,026 per month, or a total of
$624,312 annually. Rental payments increase with any annual increase in the
Consumer Price Index for Urban Wage Earners and Clerical Workers. The term of
this lease is 20 years. As additional rent, the Company is responsible for
paying 75.0% of the increase in taxes and insurance premium payments due on this
property. This lease grants the Company the option to purchase the distribution
center at the end of the fifth year, tenth year and fifteenth year of the lease
term, as well as at the end of the lease term in June 2009, at a price to be
agreed upon by the parties, or if no agreement can be reached, at a price
determined by appraisers.
 
   
On December 1, 1995 the Company entered into a lease with North Bowles
Partnership for a 83,200 square foot building that is being utilized by the
Company as a warehouse, packaging facility and the Company's management
information systems location. Seven hundred square feet of additional office
space was recently added to this facility. Rent is payable in monthly
installments of $14,500. This lease terminates on February 1, 1998.
    
 
                                       35
 
<PAGE>
On February 1, 1996, the Company entered into a lease with North Bowles
Partnership for a 200,000 square foot building that is being utilized by the
Company as a warehouse and distribution facility. Annual rental on this facility
is $384,000 payable in equal monthly installments of $32,000. This lease
terminates on July 31, 1998. As additional rent, the Company is responsible for
paying any increase in North Bowles Partnership's taxes and insurance premiums
related to the property in excess of 1995 levels.
 
   
For the year ended December 31, 1996, the Company paid Stanley Bowles
Corporation $478,646 for services rendered in connection with the installation
of a new conveyor system linking two of the Company's distribution facilities.
This payment included the cost of the equipment, labor and materials utilized
for installation. Stanley Bowles Corporation is a corporation of which Barry A.
Bowles, a director of Pluma and the chairman of its Compensation Committee, owns
20% of the voting stock.
    
 
   
For the year ended December 31, 1996 the Company paid Diversified Distribution,
Inc. $223,338 in fees related to contract services rendered to the Company for
packaging and preparing Company products for shipment. These services were
contracted for on a job-by-job basis as needed during busy delivery times. The
Company has no long-term contract for such services. Barry A. Bowles owns 22.5%
of the Common Stock of Diversified Distribution, Inc.
    
 
   
The Company paid Philpott, Ball $120,000 of advisory fees plus out-of-pocket
expenses during 1996 pursuant to a contract for financial advisory services. The
Company has signed a similar contract, requiring the payment of $120,000 during
1997. Philpott, Ball's advisory services performed or to be performed under
these agreements include negotiating with underwriters regarding pricing of the
Company's stock in a public offering and other matters related thereto,
coordinating selling shareholders in the Company's public offering, assisting in
the preparation of "road-shows" for any public offering, assisting the Company
with strategic planning, executive compensation and benefits, financial
forecasting and acquisition inquiries. J. Robert Philpott, Jr., a director of
the Company, owns 50.0% of the outstanding equity interests in Philpott, Ball.
    
 
   
With reference to all of the transactions described above, the Company followed
its policy set forth in its Bylaws related to transactions with its directors
("Interested Directors"). The Company's Bylaws require that any transaction or
series of transactions between the Company and an Interested Director in which
such Interested Director may receive either directly or indirectly, (through an
entity with which the director is affiliated as a shareholder, partner,
director, officer, employee or agent) compensation or benefits of more than
$25,000 within a twelve-month period be first considered by the Company's Board
of Directors (without the involvement of the Interested Director and any of his
family members who may be directors) and determined by them that the terms of
such transaction(s) are on terms at least equal to, if not better than, terms
which the Company could have received from a party unaffiliated with the
Company. Although transactions in the ordinary course of the Company's business
can be exempted from this requirement, the transactions described above were not
in the ordinary course of business and were on terms at least equal to, if not
better than, the terms the Company could have received from a nonaffiliated
party.
    
 
STOCK OPTION PLAN
 
   
In May 1995, the Company and its shareholders adopted the Pluma, Inc. 1995 Stock
Option Plan (the "1995 Stock Option Plan"), which provides for the issuance of
incentive stock options within the meaning of Section 422 of the Internal
Revenue Code of 1986 and non-qualified stock options to purchase an aggregate of
up to 515,200 shares of Common Stock. The 1995 Stock Option Plan permits the
grant of options to officers, employees, directors and independent contractors
of the Company and their employees.
    
 
The 1995 Stock Option Plan is administered by the Company's Compensation
Committee, of which all voting members are "disinterested persons" within the
meaning of Rule 16b-3 under the Act, as amended (the "Committee"). Each option
is evidenced by written agreement in a form approved by the Committee. No
options granted under the 1995 Stock Option Plan are transferable by the
optionee other than by will or by the laws of descent and distribution, and each
option is exercisable, during the lifetime of the optionee, only by the
optionee.
 
   
Under the 1995 Stock Option Plan, the exercise price of an incentive stock
option must be at least equal to 100.0% of the fair market value of the Common
Stock on the date of grant (110.0% of the fair market value in the case of
options granted to employees who hold more than ten percent of the voting power
of the Company's capital stock on the date of grant). The exercise price of a
non-qualified stock option is the same as for incentive stock options. The term
of an incentive or non-qualified stock option is not to exceed ten years (five
years in the case of an incentive stock option granted to a ten percent Pluma
shareholder). The Committee has the discretion to determine the vesting schedule
and the period required for full exercisability of stock options, and all
options granted under the Plan to date have contained a 20.0% per year vesting
schedule, except for options granted to George G. Wade and to a former director,
who became 100% vested in all option shares granted to them under the 1995 Stock
Option Plan at the time of the grant. Upon exercise of any option granted under
the 1995 Stock
    
 
                                       36
 
<PAGE>
Option Plan, the exercise price may be paid in cash, and/or such other form of
payment as may be permitted under the applicable option agreement, including,
without limitation, previously owned shares of Common Stock.
 
EMPLOYEE BENEFIT PLANS
 
   
In 1991, the Company adopted the Pluma, Inc. 401(k) Retirement Savings Plan (the
"401(k) Plan"), which is intended to be qualified under section 401(k) of the
Internal Revenue Code of 1986, as amended. To be eligible, an employee must have
been employed by the Company for at least one year. The 401(k) Plan permits
employees who have completed one year of service to defer up to 10.0% of their
annual compensation into the 401(k) Plan, provided, the total amount of
compensation deferred in any year does not exceed the maximum amount allowed
under law (which sum is adjusted annually). Additional annual contributions may
be made at the discretion of the Company, and matching contributions may be made
by the Company up to a maximum of 6.0% of a participating employee's annual
compensation. To date, Company matching contributions have equaled $0.35 for
every $1.00 contributed by the employee. Contributions made by the Company vest
after two years of employment.
    
 
   
Effective December 19, 1996, the Company adopted a Non-Qualified Deferred
Compensation Plan for certain selected key executives and for certain of its
Directors. This plan is designed to mirror the 401(k) Plan. Key executive
employees and directors chosen to participate in this plan are selected by the
Compensation Committee of the Company's Board of Directors. The purposes of this
plan is to provide certain directors and selected key executives of the Company
the opportunity to defer elements of their compensation which might not
otherwise be deferrable under other Company plans, including the 401(k) Plan, to
receive the benefit of additions to their deferral comparable to those
obtainable under the 401(k) Plan in the absence of certain restrictions and
limitations in the Internal Revenue Code, and to provide the directors with
benefits similar to the 401(k) Plan (absent certain restrictions and
limitations) were they eligible to participate in such 401(k) Plan.
    
 
                                       37
 
<PAGE>
                 CERTAIN RELATIONSHIPS AND RELATED TRANSACTIONS
 
   
On December 29, 1995, pursuant to an Agreement of Termination and Release, the
Company terminated the Sales and Marketing Agreement with Box & Company by
paying to Box & Company a termination payment in the amount of $2.0 million. The
Company paid Box & Company $1,000 on December 29, 1995, and the balance on
January 30, 1996, pursuant to a promissory note given as payment for the
termination payment. In addition to the $2.0 million termination payment, the
Company paid Box & Company all commissions due under the Sales and Marketing
Agreement for shipments made by the Company to customers prior to December 31,
1995 ("Final Commissions"). The amount of the Final Commissions was $152,418,
which was paid in full on February 5, 1996. Also, as part of the negotiated
settlement related to the termination, Pluma assumed the risk of all customer
returns of products previously shipped (for which commissions had been paid) and
waived any further right of offset against sums due Box & Company as the result
of uncollected accounts receivable due from Pluma's customers (on which
commissions had been paid previously), including the 20/20 Sport accounts
receivable. For a discussion of the 20/20 Sport accounts receivable, see
"Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of
Operations."
    
 
North Bowles Partnership is a general partnership of which Barry A. Bowles, a
director of Pluma and a member of its Compensation Committee, owns a 33.0%
general partnership interest.
 
On June 10, 1989, the Company entered into a lease with North Bowles Partnership
for a building located in Martinsville, Virginia, to operate a distribution
center. On December 1, 1990, this lease was amended to add 67,500 square feet to
the building subject to the original lease. The building now contains 181,550
square feet. Rental expense for 1996 was $52,026 per month, or a total of
$624,312 annually. Rental payments increase with any annual increase in the
Consumer Price Index for Urban Wage Earners and Clerical Workers. The term of
this lease is 20 years. As additional rent, the Company is responsible for
paying 75.0% of the increase in taxes and insurance premium payments due on this
property. This lease grants the Company the option to purchase the distribution
center at the end of the fifth year, tenth year and fifteenth year of the lease
term, as well as at the end of the lease term in June 2009, at a price to be
agreed upon by the parties, or if no agreement can be reached, at a price
determined by appraisers.
 
   
On December 1, 1995, the Company entered into a lease with North Bowles
Partnership for a 83,200 square foot building that is being utilized by the
Company as a warehouse, packaging facility and management information systems
location. Seven hundred square feet of additional office space was recently
added to this facility. Rent is payable in monthly installments of $14,500. This
lease terminates on February 1, 1998.
    
 
On February 1, 1996, the Company entered into a lease with North Bowles
Partnership for a 200,000 square foot building that is being utilized by the
Company as a warehouse and distribution facility. Annual rental on this facility
is $384,000 payable in equal monthly installments of $32,000. This lease
terminates on July 31, 1998. As additional rent, the Company is responsible for
paying any increase in North Bowles Partnership's taxes and insurance premiums
related to the property in excess of 1995 levels.
 
   
For the year ended December 31, 1996, the Company paid Stanley Bowles
Corporation $478,646 for services rendered in connection with the installation
of a new conveyor system linking two of the Company's distribution facilities.
This payment included the cost of the equipment and labor and materials utilized
for installation. Stanley Bowles Corporation is a corporation of which Barry A.
Bowles, a director of Pluma and a member of its Compensation Committee, owns 20%
of the voting stock.
    
 
   
For the year ended December 31, 1996, the Company paid Diversified Distribution,
Inc. $223,338 in fees related to contract services rendered to the Company for
packaging and preparing Company products for shipment. These services were
contracted for on a job-by-job basis as needed during busy delivery times. The
Company has no long term contract for such services. Barry A. Bowles owns 22.5%
of the Common Stock of Diversified Distribution, Inc.
    
 
   
The Company paid Philpott, Ball $120,000 of advisory fees plus out-of-pocket
expenses during 1996 pursuant to a contract for financial advisory services. The
Company has signed a similar contract, requiring the payment of $120,000 during
1997. Philpott, Ball's advisory services performed or to be performed under
these agreements include negotiating with underwriters regarding pricing of the
Company's stock in a public offering and other matters related thereto,
coordinating selling shareholders in the Company's public offering, assisting in
the preparation of "road-shows" for any public offering, assisting the Company
with strategic planning, executive compensation and benefits, financial
forecasting and acquisition inquiries. J. Robert Philpott, Jr., a director of
the Company, owns 50.0% of the outstanding equity interests in Philpott, Ball.
    
 
                                       38
 
<PAGE>
   
With reference to all of the transactions described above, the Company followed
its policy set forth in its Bylaws related to transactions with its directors
("Interested Directors"). The Company's Bylaws require that any transaction or
series of transactions between the Company and an Interested Director in which
such Interested Director may receive either directly or indirectly, (through an
entity with which the director is affiliated as a shareholder, partner,
director, officer, employee or agent) compensation or benefits of more than
$25,000 within a twelve month period be first considered by the Company's Board
of Directors (without, the involvement of the Interested Director and any of his
family members who may be directors) and determined by them that the terms of
such transaction(s) are on terms at least equal to, if not better than, terms
which the Company could have received from a party unaffiliated with the
Company. Although transactions in the ordinary course of the Company's business
can be exempted from this requirement, the transactions described above were not
in the ordinary course of business and were on terms at least equal to, if not
better than, the terms the Company could have received from a nonaffiliated
party.
    
 
                                       39
 
<PAGE>
                             PRINCIPAL SHAREHOLDERS
 
The following table sets forth certain information regarding the beneficial
ownership of the Company's Common Stock as of the date of this Prospectus and as
adjusted to reflect the sale of the shares offered hereby with respect to (i)
each person known by the Company to own beneficially more than five percent of
the outstanding shares of Common Stock, (ii) each of the Company's directors and
the Named Officers and (iii) all directors and executive officers as a group.
Unless otherwise indicated, each of the shareholders has sole voting and
investment power with respect to the shares beneficially owned.
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>

                                             SHARES BENEFICIALLY OWNED                                    SHARES
                                                 PRIOR TO OFFERING                                       BENEFICIALLY
                                                                                                         OWNED
                                                                                                           AFTER
                                                                               SHARES TO BE SOLD         OFFERING
NAME (1)                                       NUMBER        PERCENT (2)                   NUMBER           NUMBER
<S>                                         <C>              <C>                <C>                      <C>
G. Walker Box                                 877,186(3)(4)        16.15%                       0          807,542(4)
R. Duke Ferrell, Jr.                          571,992(3)(5)        10.53%                   3,485          526,405(5)
George G. Wade                                511,442(6)            9.41%                  76,381          423,561
Kemp D. Box                                   417,502(7)(8)         7.69%                       0          389,960(7)
  Post Office Box 6822
  Columbia, SC 29260
David C. Jones, D.D.S.                        378,957(7)(9)         6.98%                  26,912          352,045
  25 E. Cleveland Ave., Suite E
  Martinsville, VA 24112
William K. Mileski                            338,238(7)(10)        6.23%                  78.304          259,934
  Meritage
  P.O. Box 1198
  Mooresville, NC 28115
C. Monroe Light                               298,482(3)(11)        5.49%                  14,299          284,183
R. Stephens Pannill                           263,226(7)(12)        4.85%                  15,963          247,263
  835 Colville Road
  Charlotte, NC 28207
Barry A. Bowles                               150,864(7)(13)        2.78%                  14,645          136,219
  Stanley W. Bowles Corp.
  Post Office Box 4706
  Martinsville, VA 24115
Milton A. Barber, IV                           14,432(7)             .27%                       0           14,432
J. Robert Philpott, Jr.                            --(14)             --                       --               --
  Philpott, Ball & Company
  212 S. Tryon Street, Suite 1050
  Charlotte, NC 28281
All directors and executive                 3,592,303              66.12%                 229,989(15)    3,102,862
  officers as a group (16 persons)
 
<CAPTION>
                                            SHARES
                                          BENEFICIALLY
                                              OWNED
                                              AFTER
                                             OFFERING
                                             NUMBER
NAME (1)                                   PERCENT (2)
G. Walker Box                                   10.18%(4)
R. Duke Ferrell, Jr.                             6.64%(5)
George G. Wade                                   5.34%(5)
Kemp D. Box                                      4.92%(7)
  Post Office Box 6822
  Columbia, SC 29260
David C. Jones, D.D.S.                           4.44%
  25 E. Cleveland Ave., Suite E
  Martinsville, VA 24112
William K. Mileski                               3.28%
  Meritage
  P.O. Box 1198
  Mooresville, NC 28115
C. Monroe Light                                  3.58%
R. Stephens Pannill                              3.12%
  835 Colville Road
  Charlotte, NC 28207
Barry A. Bowles                                  1.72%
  Stanley W. Bowles Corp.
  Post Office Box 4706
  Martinsville, VA 24115
Milton A. Barber, IV                              .18%
J. Robert Philpott, Jr.                             --
  Philpott, Ball & Company
  212 S. Tryon Street, Suite 1050
  Charlotte, NC 28281
All directors and executive                     39.11%
  officers as a group (16 persons)
</TABLE>
    
 
   
(1) Except as otherwise noted, the address of each person who is a director,
executive officer, or five percent shareholder of the Company is c/o Pluma,
Inc., 801 Fieldcrest Road, Eden, North Carolina 27288.
    
 
   
(2) Prior to the Offering, the percentages calculated are based on 5,315,797
shares issued and outstanding as of the date hereof plus 117,171 shares subject
to presently exercisable stock options issued under the Company's Stock Option
Plan (the "Option Shares"), a total of 5,432,968 shares. As of the date of the
closing of the Offering, the percentages calculated are based on 7,815,797
shares issued and outstanding plus 117,171 Option Shares, a total of 7,932,968
shares.
    
 
   
(3) Includes 8,832 shares issuable upon the exercise of options that have vested
(does not include 35,328 shares issuable upon the exercise of options that have
not yet vested).
    
 
   
(4) Includes (a) 23,552 shares owned by the George Walker Box Family Trust of
which G. Walker Box is the trustee and has sole voting and investment power; (b)
237,687 shares owned by Box, Ferrell & Co. of which Mr. Box shares voting power
and investment power equally with R. Duke Ferrell, Jr. -- these shares are
included in both Mr. Box's and Mr. Ferrell's beneficially owned shares; (c)
46,758 shares owned by Mr. Box as custodian for his minor children living in his
household; (d) 100,995 shares owned by the George Henry Box, Jr. Revocable Trust
dated April 27, 1992 of which Mr. Box as Co-trustee, shares voting
    
 
                                       40
 
<PAGE>
   
and investment power equally with Kemp D. Box -- these shares are included in
both Mr. Box's and Kemp D. Box's beneficially owned shares; and (e) 16,240
shares owned by Mr. Box's wife of which shares Mr. Box disclaims beneficial
ownership. Although Mr. Box individually is not selling any shares of Common
Stock in this Offering, Box Ferrell & Co., a corporation owned 50% by Mr. Box is
selling 42,102 shares of Common Stock and the George Henry Box Revocable Trust
of which Mr. Box is a Co-Trustee is selling 27,542 shares of Common Stock in
this Offering and therefore Mr. Box's Beneficially Owned Shares will be reduced
as a result of the Offering.
    
 
   
(5) Includes (a) 237,724 shares owned by Box, Ferrell & Co. of which Mr. Ferrell
shares voting power and investment power equally with G. Walker Box -- these
shares are included in both Mr. Ferrell's and Mr. Box's beneficially owned
shares; (b) 19,636 shares held by Mr. Ferrell as custodian for his minor
children living in his household; (c) 4,740 shares held by Mr. Ferrell's
Individual Retirement Account; and (d) 20,019 shares owned of record by Mr.
Ferrell's wife of which shares Mr. Ferrell disclaims beneficial ownership. Mr.
Ferrell's Beneficially Owned Shares are also being reduced by 42,102 shares as
the result of the sale by Box Ferrell & Co. of 42,102 shares of Common Stock in
the Offering.
    
 
   
(6) Includes (a) 44,160 shares issuable upon the exercise of options that are
currently exercisable; and (b) 85,376 shares owned by Mr. Wade's wife. Mr. Wade
disclaims beneficial ownership of the shares owned by his wife. Does not include
589 shares owned by Mr. Wade's adult children who do not reside in his
household.
    
 
   
(7) Includes 2,944 shares issuable upon the exercise of options that are
currently exercisable (does not include 11,776 shares issuable upon the exercise
of options that have not yet vested).
    
 
   
(8) Includes (a) 100,995 shares owned by the George Henry Box, Jr. Revocable
Trust dated April 27, 1992 of which Mr. Box as Co-trustee, shares voting and
investment power equally with G. Walker Box -- these shares are included in both
Mr. Box's and G. Walker Box's beneficially owned shares; (b) 23,552 shares owned
by the Kemp D. Box Family Trust, of which Mr. Box is the trustee and has sole
voting and investment power; (c) 4,465 shares owned by Mr. Box's wife; (d)
18,468 shares owned by Mr. Box's wife as trustee for trusts for her and Mr.
Box's minor children living in Mr. Box's household; and (e) 43,356 shares owned
by Mr. Box's wife as trustee for the Kemp D. Box Descendants' Trust. Mr. Box
disclaims beneficial ownership of all shares beneficially owned by his wife.
Although Mr. Box individually is not selling any shares of Common Stock in this
Offering, the George Henry Box Revocable Trust of which Mr. Box is a Co-Trustee
is selling 27,542 of Common Stock in this Offering and therefore Mr. Box's
Beneficially Owned Shares will be reduced as a result of the Offering.
    
 
   
(9) Includes 31,100 shares owned by his Individual Retirement Account, but does
not include 36,108 shares owned by the David C. Jones Foundation, the trustees
of which are Dr. Jones' wife, Karen Jones, and John L. Gregory III.
    
 
   
(10) Includes 22,080 shares owned by Mr. Mileski's wife of which shares Mr.
Mileski disclaims beneficial ownership. Does not include 3,165 shares owned by
Mr. Mileski's adult children who do not reside in his household.
    
 
   
(11) Includes 58,880 shares owned by Mr. Light's wife of which shares Mr. Light
disclaims beneficial ownership. Does not include 8,689 shares owned by Mr.
Light's adult children who do not reside in his household and 5,888 shares owned
by Mr. Light's grandchildren who do not reside in his household.
    
 
   
(12) Includes (a) all of the 257,600 shares Mr. Pannill owns of record with his
wife as a joint tenant with right of survivorship; and (b) 2,682 shares owned by
Mr. Pannill's wife of which shares Mr. Pannill disclaims beneficial ownership.
    
 
   
(13) Includes 1,472 shares held by Mr. Bowles' Individual Retirement Account.
Does not include 29 shares owned by Mr. Bowles' adult children who do not reside
in his household and does not include 11,482 shares owned by the Barry A. Bowles
Irrevocable Trust of which John L. Gregory III is the trustee.
    
 
   
(14) Does not include 14,720 shares issuable upon the exercise of options that
have not yet vested.
    
 
   
(15) Does not include 42,102 shares sold by Box & Co., a corporation owned
solely by G. Walker Box and R. Duke Ferrell and 27,542 shares of Common Stock
being sold by the George Henry Box Jr. Revocable Trust of which G. Walker Box
and Kemp Box are Co-Trustees.
    
 
                                       41
 
<PAGE>
                              SELLING SHAREHOLDERS
 
The Selling Shareholders listed in the table below have agreed to sell the
number of shares of Common Stock set forth opposite their respective names. The
table sets forth information with respect to beneficial ownership of the Common
Stock by the Selling Shareholders immediately prior to the consummation of the
Offering and as adjusted to reflect the sale of shares of Common Stock pursuant
to the Offering. The Selling Shareholder's position, office or other material
relationship with the Company for the last three years is also stated. All
information with respect to beneficial ownership has been furnished by the
respective Selling Shareholders.
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>

                                                                                                           
                                                                                                           
                                                  BENEFICIAL OWNERSHIP                                  BENEFICIAL OWNERSHIP
                                                    PRIOR TO OFFERING             SHARES TO BE SOLD      AFTER OFFERING
NAME                                            NUMBER         PERCENT (1)           IN OFFERING            NUMBER
<S>                                            <C>             <C>                <C>                      <C>
M.J. Soffe Company                             193,593                3.56%            193,593                   0
  President, James F. Soffe, former director
William K. Mileski                             338,238(2)(3)          6.23%             78,304             259,934
  Former Executive Vice President and
  current Director
George G. Wade                                 511,442(4)             9.41%             76,381             423,561
  Chairman Emeritus of Board of Directors
  and Secretary
George Henry Box, Jr. Revocable Trust, G.      100,995                1.86%             27,542              73,453
  Walker Box and Kemp D. Box, Trustees, G.
  Walker Box is Chairman of the Board of
  Directors, Kemp D. Box is a director
David C. Jones, D.D.S.                         378,957(2)(5)          6.98%             26,912             352,045
  Director
R. Duke Ferrell, Jr.                           571,992(6)(7)         10.53%              3,485             526,405
  President, Chief Executive Officer and
  Director
R. Stephens Pannill                            263,226(2)(8)          4.85%             15,963             247,263
  Director
C. Monroe Light                                298,482(6)(9)          5.49%             14,299             284,183
  Executive Vice President and Director
Barry A. Bowles                                150,864(2)(10)         2.78%             14,645             136,219
  Director
Box Ferrell & Co.                              237,687                4.37%             42,102             195,585
  solely owned by G. Walker Box, Chairman of
  the Board and R. Duke Ferrell, Jr.,
  President and Chief Executive Officer
Estate of Walter Williams                       29,440                 .54%             14,720              14,720
Stanley Bowles, Jr.                            194,843                3.59%             12,470             182,373
David W. Bowles                                146,814                2.70%             11,040             135,774
Barbara A. Wade                                511,442(11)            9.41%             11,500             499,942
M. T. Associates                               126,066                2.32%             10,085             115,981
T. S. Partners                                 206,447                3.80%             16,516             189,931
S&J Investments                                178,162                3.28%             14,253             163,909
Walter G. Light                                 60,253                1.11%              4,821              55,432
Novellia D. Light                               58,880                1.08%              4,710              54,170
John D. Soffe                                   48,561                 .89%              3,680              44,881
Calabras of America, Inc.                       37,231                 .69%              2,979              34,252
 
<CAPTION>
                                          BENEFICIAL OWNERSHIP
                                            AFTER OFFERING
NAME                                          PERCENT (1)
M.J. Soffe Company                                 0.00%
  President, James F. Soffe, former director
William K. Mileski                                 3.28%
  Former Executive Vice President and
  current Director
George G. Wade                                     5.34%
  Chairman Emeritus of Board of Directors
  and Secretary
George Henry Box, Jr. Revocable Trust, G.           .93%
  Walker Box and Kemp D. Box, Trustees, G.
  Walker Box is Chairman of the Board of
  Directors, Kemp D. Box is a director
David C. Jones, D.D.S.                             4.44%
  Director
R. Duke Ferrell, Jr.                               6.64%
  President, Chief Executive Officer and
  Director
R. Stephens Pannill                                3.12%
  Director
C. Monroe Light                                    3.58%
  Executive Vice President and Director
Barry A. Bowles                                    1.72%
  Director
Box Ferrell & Co.                                  2.47%
  solely owned by G. Walker Box, Chairman of
  the Board and R. Duke Ferrell, Jr.,
  President and Chief Executive Officer
Estate of Walter Williams                           .19%
Stanley Bowles, Jr.                                2.30%
David W. Bowles                                    1.71%
Barbara A. Wade                                    6.30%
M. T. Associates                                   1.46%
T. S. Partners                                     2.39%
S&J Investments                                    2.07%
Walter G. Light                                     .70%
Novellia D. Light                                   .68%
John D. Soffe                                       .57%
Calabras of America, Inc.                           .43%
</TABLE>
    
 
   
(1) Prior to the Offering, the percentages calculated are based on 5,315,797
shares issued and outstanding as of the date hereof plus 117,171 Option Shares,
a total of 5,432,968 shares. As of the date of closing of the Offering, the
percentages calculated are based on 7,815,797 shares issued and outstanding plus
117,171 Option Shares, a total of 7,932,968 shares.
    
 
   
(2) Includes 2,944 shares issuable upon the exercise of options that are
currently exercisable (does not include 11,776 shares issuable upon the exercise
of options that have not yet vested).
    
 
                                       42
 
<PAGE>
   
(3) Includes 22,080 shares owned by Mr. Mileski's wife of which shares Mr.
Mileski disclaims beneficial ownership. Does not include 3,165 shares owned by
Mr. Mileski's adult children who do not reside in his household.
    
 
   
(4) Includes (a) 44,160 shares issuable upon the exercise of options that are
currently exercisable; and (b) 85,376 shares owned by Mr. Wade's wife. Mr. Wade
disclaims beneficial ownership of the shares owned by his wife. Does not include
589 shares owned by Mr. Wade's adult children who do not reside in his
household.
    
 
   
(5) Includes 31,100 shares owned by his Individual Retirement Account, but does
not include 36,108 shares owned by the David C. Jones Foundation, the trustees
of which are Dr. Jones' wife, Karen Jones, and John L. Gregory III.
    
 
   
(6) Includes 8,832 shares issuable upon the exercise of options that have vested
(does not include 35,328 shares issuable upon the exercise of options that have
not yet vested).
    
 
   
(7) Includes (a) 237,724 shares owned by Box, Ferrell & Co. of which Mr. Ferrell
shares voting power and investment power equally with G. Walker Box -- these
shares are included in both Mr. Ferrell's and Mr. Box's beneficially owned
shares; (b) 19,636 shares held by Mr. Ferrell as custodian for his minor
children living in his household; (c) 4,740 shares held by Mr. Ferrell's
Individual Retirement Account; and (d) 20,019 shares owned of record by Mr.
Ferrell's wife of which shares Mr. Ferrell disclaims beneficial ownership. Mr.
Ferrell's Beneficially Owned Shares are also being reduced by 42,102 shares as
the result of the sale by Box Ferrell & Co. of 42,102 shares of Common Stock in
the Offering.
    
 
   
(8) Includes (a) all of the 257,600 shares Mr. Pannill owns of record with his
wife as a joint tenant with right of survivorship; and (b) 2,682 shares owned by
Mr. Pannill's wife of which shares Mr. Pannill disclaims beneficial ownership.
    
 
   
(9) Includes 58,880 shares owned by Mr. Light's wife of which shares Mr. Light
disclaims beneficial ownership. Does not include 8,689 shares owned by Mr.
Light's adult children who do not reside in his household and 5,888 shares owned
by Mr. Light's grandchildren who do not reside in his household.
    
 
   
(10) Includes 1,472 shares held by Mr. Bowles' Individual Retirement Account.
Does not include 29 shares owned by Mr. Bowles' adult children who do not reside
in his household and does not include 11,482 shares owned by the Barry A. Bowles
Irrevocable Trust of which John L. Gregory III is the trustee.
    
 
   
(11) Includes 381,906 shares owned by Mrs. Wade's husband, George G. Wade,
Chairman Emeritus of the Company's Board of Directors, as well as Mr. Wades
44,160 option shares.
    
 
                                       43
 
<PAGE>
                          DESCRIPTION OF CAPITAL STOCK
 
GENERAL
 
The authorized capital stock of the Company consists of 16,000,000 shares,
consisting of 15,000,000 shares of Common Stock, no par value, and 1,000,000
shares of preferred stock, no par value (the "Preferred Stock"). The following
summary description of the capital stock of the Company does not purport to be
complete and is subject to the detailed provisions of and is qualified in its
entirety by reference to the Company's Articles of Incorporation and Bylaws and
to the applicable provisions of the North Carolina Business Corporation Act.
 
COMMON STOCK
 
   
As of the date hereof, 5,315,797 shares of the Company's Common Stock are issued
and outstanding to 154 shareholders. Upon completion of this Offering, it is
anticipated that 7,815,797 shares of Common Stock will be issued and outstanding
(8,280,797 shares if the Underwriters, over allotment option is exercised in
full).
    
 
   
Holders of the Common Stock are entitled to receive dividends when and as
declared by the Board of Directors out of funds legally available therefor. The
Company has declared and paid quarterly cash dividends on its Common Stock since
1991. Quarterly cash dividends paid since January 1994 have been $0.0272 per
share. However, the Company has not established a dividend policy to follow
subsequent to this Offering and does not expect that a dividend will be declared
and paid in the foreseeable future. See "Dividend Policy." Holders of the Common
Stock have no preemptive rights to purchase additional shares, which rights, if
they existed, would entitle a shareholder to maintain his or her proportionate
percentage interest in the Company by purchasing additional shares at any time
the Company issues any additional shares. Furthermore, the shares of Common
Stock being sold hereby have no conversion, sinking fund or redemption rights.
Holders of the Common Stock are entitled to share on a prorated basis in the
assets of the Company legally available for distribution to shareholders in the
event of the Company's liquidation, dissolution or winding up. The Common Stock
offered hereby will be, when issued, fully paid and nonassessable. Each holder
of shares of the Common Stock is entitled to one vote for each share of the
Common Stock held of record on all matters submitted to a vote of shareholders,
including the election of directors. Pursuant to the provisions of the North
Carolina General Statutes that will apply to the Company, a shareholder of the
Company following the Offering will not have the right to vote his shares
cumulatively, in the election of directors.
    
 
Except as set forth below, the vote of holders of a majority of the shares of
Common Stock voted at a meeting of the shareholders shall be sufficient to take
or authorize action upon any matter that may properly come before a meeting of
the shareholders. Notwithstanding the preceding sentence, the Company's Bylaws
provide that a vote of holders of 66 2/3% of the Company's Common Stock (as well
as the Board of Directors) shall be required for the authorization of (a) any
consolidation or merger of the Company where the shareholders of the Company,
immediately prior to the consolidation or merger, would not, immediately after
the consolidation or merger, beneficially own, directly or indirectly, shares
representing in the aggregate at least 50.1% of the voting shares of the
corporation issuing cash and/or securities in the consolidation or merger (or of
its ultimate parent corporation, if any), (b) any sale, lease, exchange or other
transfer (in one transaction or a series of transactions contemplated or
arranged by a party as a single plan) of all or substantially all of the assets
of the Company or (c) any plan or proposal for the liquidation or dissolution of
the Company.
 
The above-referenced provisions of the Company's Bylaws are designed to
encourage any person interested in acquiring the Company to negotiate with and
obtain the approval of a large majority of the Company's Board of Directors and
a large majority of its shareholders, thus possibly slowing down an unfriendly
takeover attempt and initiating more discussion and analysis before the
occurrence of a "change in control" of the Company. These provisions may,
however, discourage a future acquisition of the Company not approved by the
Board of Directors in which shareholders might receive the maximum value for
their shares or which a substantial number and perhaps even a majority of the
Company's shareholders believe to be in the best interests of all shareholders.
As a result, shareholders who might desire to participate in such a "change of
control" transaction may not have the opportunity to do so. See "Risk
Factors -- Antitakeover Provisions."
 
   
Application has been made for listing of the Common Stock on the New York Stock
Exchange under the symbol "PLM." The transfer agent and registrar for the
Company's Common Stock will be First Union National Bank of North Carolina, 2
First Union Center, Charlotte, North Carolina.
    
 
                                       44
 
<PAGE>
PREFERRED STOCK
 
As of the date of this Prospectus, no shares of Preferred Stock were
outstanding. The Board of Directors is authorized to issue Preferred Stock in
one or more series and to determine, with respect to any such series, the
designations, powers, preferences and rights of such series, including: (i) the
number of shares of the series, which number the Board of Directors may
thereafter (except where otherwise provided in the preferred stock designation)
increase or decrease (but not below the number of shares thereof then
outstanding); (ii) whether dividends, if any, will be cumulative or
noncumulative and the dividend rate of the series; (iii) the dates at which
dividends, if any, will be payable; (iv) the redemption rights and price or
prices, if any, for shares of the series; (v) the terms and amounts of any
sinking fund provided for the purchase or redemption of shares of the series;
(vi) the amounts payable, and the preferences, if any, on shares of the series
in the event of any voluntary or involuntary liquidation, dissolution or winding
up of the affairs of the Company; (vii) whether the shares of the series will be
convertible into shares of any other class or series, or any other security, of
the Company or any other corporation, and, if so, the specification of such
other class or series or such other security; (viii) the conversion price or
prices or rate or rates, and any adjustments thereof, the date or dates as of
which such shares shall be convertible and all other terms and conditions upon
which such conversion may be made; (ix) restrictions on the issuance of shares
of the same series or of any other class or series; (x) the voting rights, if
any, of the holders of such series and (xi) such other powers, preferences and
relative, participating, optional and other special rights, and the
qualifications, limitations and restrictions thereof, as the Board of Directors
shall determine.
 
The Company believes that the ability of the Board of Directors to issue one or
more series of Preferred Stock will provide the Company with flexibility in
structuring possible future financings and acquisitions, and in meeting other
corporate needs which might arise. The authorized shares of Preferred Stock, as
well as shares of Common Stock, will be available for issuance without further
action by the Company's shareholders, unless such action is required by
applicable law or the rules of any stock exchange or automated quotation system
on which the Company's securities may be listed or traded.
 
Although the Board of Directors has no intention at the present time of doing
so, it could issue a series of Preferred Stock that could, depending on the
terms of such series, impede the completion of a merger, tender offer or other
takeover attempt. The Board of Directors will make any determination to issue
such shares based on its judgment as to the best interests of the Company and
its shareholders. The Board of Directors, in so acting, could issue Preferred
Stock having terms that could discourage an acquisition attempt through which an
acquiror may be able to change the composition of the Board of Directors,
including a tender offer or other transaction that some, or a majority, of the
Company's shareholders might believe to be in their best interests or in which
shareholders might receive a premium for their stock over the then current
market price of such stock.
 
BOARD OF DIRECTORS
 
The Company's Board of Directors currently consists of ten directors and is
divided into three classes designed to contain a relatively equal number of
members. The terms of office of the directors are staggered so that the terms of
office of no more than approximately one-third of the directors expire in any
one year. The classification system of electing directors may discourage a third
party from making a tender offer or otherwise attempting to obtain control of
the Company and may maintain the incumbency of the Board of Directors, as it
generally makes it more difficult for shareholders to replace a majority of the
Board of Directors.
 
The number of directors constituting the Board of Directors shall not be less
than nine or more than twelve. The Board of Directors has the right to increase
the number of directors, provided the number of such directors is not greater
than twelve. A majority of the Board of Directors then in office has the sole
authority to fill any vacancies on the Board of Directors.
 
CERTAIN PROVISIONS OF NORTH CAROLINA STATUTES AND OF THE COMPANY'S BYLAWS
 
The North Carolina General Statutes ("NCGS") provide in the North Carolina
Shareholder Protection Act (the "Shareholder Act") a mechanism designed to
prevent a two-phase tender offer for shares of a publicly held North Carolina
corporation which attempts to force shareholders to sell their shares in the
first phase of any such tender offer in order to avoid the risk of receiving a
lower price in the second phase of the offer. The Shareholder Act's purpose is
to assure a fair price for all shareholders of a corporation subject to a
"change of control," merger or other business combination. Generally, the
Shareholder Act requires the vote of 95.0% of the voting shares of a publicly
held corporation to approve a business combination unless the shareholders of
such corporation who have their shares purchased in the business combination
receive a "fair price" equal to the highest of (i) the highest per share price
ever paid by anyone who is a part of an acquiring "other entity," (ii) a price
that exceeds the market price when the second phase of the acquisition is
announced by the same percentage as the highest price paid by any member of the
"other entity" exceeds the market price immediately before the commencement of
acquisition of the
 
                                       45
 
<PAGE>
corporation's shares by the other entity or (iii) a price computed by
multiplying the corporation's annual earnings per share by the price/earnings
multiple, if any, of the acquiring "other entity." Furthermore, certain
procedural requirements must be met.
 
   
As allowed by the Shareholder Act, the Company's Board of Directors intends to
amend the Company's Bylaws immediately after the offering is completed exempting
the Company from the requirements and provisions of the Shareholder Act. This
could allow for a two-phase tender offer for the Company's shares that could
result in a lower price to shareholders who sell their Pluma shares in the
second phase of any such tender offer. Furthermore, the elimination of the
Shareholder Act may allow for a successful hostile takeover of the Company that
is not favored. However, the Company's Board of Directors believes that the
Shareholder Act is too broad in its application and could work to block a
business combination transaction desired by virtually all of the Company's
shareholders.
    
 
The Control Share Acquisition Act, promulgated under the NCGS, generally
prohibits a person who acquires "control shares" in a "control share
acquisition" from voting its shares so acquired unless such voting rights are
granted by a majority of all outstanding voting shares of the Company exclusive
of the shares acquired by the person acquiring "control shares." The voting
rights to be granted to the acquiring person must be granted at a shareholders
meeting for which there are special notice requirements, and such meeting could
be held within 50 days after the shareholders receive certain information from
the acquiring person. Thus, a normal tender offer is delayed by at least 50 days
since the acquiring person would not want to purchase shares he could not
subsequently vote. Although it appears that this act might inhibit an
acquisition of the Company that a majority of the shareholders desires, it could
also be viewed as an assistance to a person engineering a hostile takeover of
the Company. In any event, as allowed by the Control Share Acquisition Act, the
Company's Board of Directors has amended the Company's Bylaws exempting the
Company from the requirements and provisions of this act.
 
INDEMNIFICATION OF OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS
 
The Bylaws of the Company provide that any person who at any time serves or has
served as director, officer, employee or agent of the Company, shall have a
right to be indemnified by the Company to the fullest extent permitted by law
against (a) liability and litigation expenses, including reasonable attorney's
fees incurred in connection with any threatened, pending or completed action,
suit or proceeding, whether civil, criminal, administrative or investigative,
and whether or not brought by or on behalf of the Company, seeking to hold him
liable by reason of the fact that he is or was acting in such capacity, and (b)
reasonable payments made by him in satisfaction of any judgment, money decree,
fine, penalty or settlement for which he may become liable in any such action,
suit or proceeding.
 
   
The Securities and Exchange Commission has taken the position that insofar as
indemnification from liabilities of officers and directors of a Company arising
under the Securities Act of 1933, as amended, may be permitted, the Company has
been informed that in the opinion of the Securities and Exchange Commission,
such indemnification is against public policy as expressed in the Securities Act
of 1933, as amended, and is, therefore, unenforceable.
    
 
                                       46
 
<PAGE>
                        SHARES ELIGIBLE FOR FUTURE SALE
 
   
Upon completion of this Offering, the Company will have outstanding 7,815,797
shares of Common Stock, of which the 2,500,000 shares sold by the Company in
this Offering (2,965,000 shares if the Underwriters' over-allotment options are
exercised in full) will be freely tradeable without restrictions or further
registration under the Securities Act, except for those shares held by
"affiliates" (as defined in the Securities Act) of the Company.
    
 
   
    The remaining 5,315,797 shares (the "Restricted Shares") are currently held
by the existing shareholders and were issued and sold by the Company in private
transactions in reliance upon exemptions from the registration provisions of the
federal securities laws, and are subject to certain restrictions under Rule 144
of the Securities Act. The Restricted Shares may not be resold in the absence of
registration under the Securities Act or pursuant to an exemption to such
registration, including exemptions provided by Rule 144 under the Securities
Act. In general, under Rule 144 as currently in effect, a person who has
beneficially owned Restricted Shares for at least two years, including
"affiliates" of the Company, would be entitled to sell in broker's transactions
or to market makers within any three-month period a number of shares that does
not exceed the greater of 1.0% of the then outstanding shares of Common Stock
(approximately 78,158 shares after giving effect to the Offering) or the average
weekly trading volume of the Common Stock on the New York Stock Exchange during
the four calendar weeks preceding the date of such sale. Sales under Rule 144
are also subject to certain manner of sale restrictions and notice requirements
and to the availability of current public information concerning the Company. In
addition, a person (or persons whose shares are aggregated) who is not an
"affiliate" of the Company at any time during the 90 days preceding a sale, and
who has beneficially owned such shares for at least three years would be
entitled to sell such shares under Rule 144(k) without regard to the
availability of current public information, volume limitations, manner of sale
provisions or notice requirements. This rule will allow all of the Company's
existing shareholders who have not signed the agreement referenced below (and
who collectively will own 760,685 shares of the Common Stock, or 9.7% of the
issued and outstanding shares of Common Stock after the Offering assuming the
Underwriters' over-allotment option is not exercised) to freely trade their
shares without restriction immediately upon completion of this Offering. The
current holders of the Restricted Shares who have signed the agreement
referenced below will be eligible to sell a portion of such shares pursuant to
Rule 144, subject to the manner of sale, volume, notice and information
requirements of Rule 144. The above is a summary of Rule 144 and is not intended
to be a complete description thereof.
    
 
   
Additionally, shares issued or issuable upon exercise of options granted by the
Company prior to the date of this Prospectus also may be eligible for sale in
the public market pursuant to Rule 701 under the Act. In general, Rule 701
permits resales of shares issued pursuant to certain compensatory benefit plans
and contracts commencing 90 days after the issuer becomes subject to the
reporting requirements of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, as amended, in
reliance upon certain provisions of Rule 144. Non-affiliates are permitted to
sell without having to comply with the public information, holding period,
volume limitations or notice provisions of Rule 144 and affiliates are permitted
to sell without having to comply with the holding period provisions of Rule 144.
If all the requirements of Rule 701 are met, 117,171 shares of Common Stock
issuable upon exercise of currently outstanding options which will then be
vested will be eligible for sale commencing 90 days after the date of this
Prospectus.
    
 
   
The Company, its directors, certain executive officers and all shareholders who
own more than 36,800 shares of Common Stock have agreed that they will not,
directly or indirectly, offer, sell, offer to sell, contract to sell, grant any
option to purchase or otherwise sell or dispose (or announce any offer, sale,
offer of sale, contract of sale, grant of any option to purchase or other sale
or disposition) of any shares of Common Stock or any securities convertible
into, or exercisable or exchangeable for, Common Stock or other capital stock of
the Company, for a period of 180 days after the date of this Prospectus, without
the prior written consent of J.P. Morgan Securities Inc., on behalf of the
Underwriters, except that the Company may grant options to purchase shares of
Common Stock under the 1995 Stock Option Plan. See "Management -- Executive
Compensation, Stock Option Plan."
    
 
Prior to this offering, there has been no market for the Common Stock and no
precise predictions can be made as to the effect, if any, that sales of shares
or the availability of such shares for sale in the public market will have on
the market prices prevailing from time to time. Nevertheless, sales of
substantial amounts of Common Stock in the public market could adversely affect
prevailing market prices and impair the Company's ability to raise capital
through the sale of equity securities.
 
                                       47
 
<PAGE>
                                  UNDERWRITING
 
Under the terms and subject to the conditions set forth in an Underwriting
Agreement dated the date hereof (the "Underwriting Agreement"), the Company and
the Selling Shareholders have agreed to sell to the Underwriters named below,
and each of such Underwriters, for whom J.P. Morgan Securities Inc.,
Interstate/Johnson Lane Corporation and Wheat, First Securities, Inc. are acting
as representatives, has severally agreed to purchase from the Company and the
Selling Shareholders, the respective number of shares of Common Stock set forth
opposite their names below:
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
UNDERWRITERS                                                                         NUMBER OF SHARES
<S>                                                                                  <C>
J.P. Morgan Securities Inc.
Interstate/Johnson Lane Corporation
Wheat, First Securities, Inc.
 
    Total.........................................................................          3,100,000
</TABLE>
    
 
The Underwriting Agreement provides that the obligations of the several
Underwriters to purchase shares of Common Stock are subject to the approval of
certain legal matters by counsel and certain other conditions. Under the terms
and conditions of the Underwriting Agreement, the Underwriters are obligated to
take and pay for all such shares of Common Stock, if any are taken.
 
The Underwriters propose initially to offer the shares of Common Stock directly
to the public at the public offering price set forth on the cover page of this
Prospectus and to certain dealers at such price less a concession not in excess
of $          per share. The Underwriters may allow, and such dealers may
reallow, a concession not in excess of $          per share to certain other
dealers. After the initial public offering of the Common Stock, the public
offering price and such concession may be changed.
 
   
The Company has granted to the Underwriters an option, expiring at the close of
business on the 30th day after the date of this Prospectus, to purchase up to
465,000 additional shares of Common Stock from the Company, at the initial
public offering price, less the underwriting discount. The Underwriters may
exercise such option solely for the purpose of covering over-allotments, if any.
To the extent that the Underwriters exercise their option, each Underwriter will
have a firm commitment, subject to certain conditions, to purchase approximately
the same percentage of such additional shares as the number set forth next to
such Underwriter's name in the preceding table bears to the total number of
shares of Common Stock initially offered hereby.
    
 
The Company and the Selling Shareholders have agreed to indemnify the
Underwriters against certain liabilities, including liabilities under the
Securities Act.
 
   
Each of the Company, its directors, certain executive officers and each of the
shareholders who own 36,800 or more shares of Common Stock has agreed, with
certain limited exceptions, not to offer, sell, contract to sell or otherwise
dispose of any shares of Common Stock, any options for the sale of Common Stock,
or any securities convertible into or exchangeable or exercisable for any such
shares, for a period of 180 days after the date of this Prospectus, without the
consent of J.P. Morgan Securities Inc.
    
 
Prior to this Offering, there has been no public market for the Common Stock.
The initial public offering price for the Common Stock offered hereby has been
determined by agreement among the Company, the Selling Shareholders and the
Underwriters. Among the factors considered in making such determination were the
history of and the prospects for the industry in which the Company competes, an
assessment of the Company's management, the present operations of the Company,
the historical results
 
                                       48
 
<PAGE>
of operations of the Company and the trend of its revenues and earnings, the
prospects for future earnings of the Company, the general condition of the
securities markets at the time of the offering and the prices of similar
securities of generally comparable companies.
 
   
Application has been made for listing of the Common Stock on the New York Stock
Exchange under the symbol "PLM." There can be no assurance that an active
trading market will develop for the Common Stock or that the Common Stock will
trade in the public market subsequent to the offering at or above the initial
public offering price.
    
 
   
At the Company's request, the Underwriters have reserved up to 155,000 shares of
Common Stock for sale at the initial public offering price to the Company's
employees and other persons having business relationships with the Company. The
number of shares of Common Stock available for sale to other members of the
public will be reduced to the extent that these persons purchase such reserved
shares. Any reserved shares not purchased will be offered by the Underwriters on
the same basis as the other shares offered hereby.
    
 
                                 LEGAL MATTERS
 
   
Certain legal matters in respect to the validity of the shares of Common Stock
offered hereby will be passed upon for the Company by Allman Spry Leggett &
Crumpler, P.A., Winston-Salem, North Carolina. Certain legal matters will be
passed upon for the Underwriters by Davis Polk & Wardwell. Davis Polk & Wardwell
may rely on Allman Spry Leggett & Crumpler, P.A. as to matters of North Carolina
law.
    
 
                                    EXPERTS
 
   
The financial statements as of December 31, 1996 and 1995 and for each of the
three years in the period ended December 31, 1996, included in this Prospectus
have been audited by Deloitte & Touche LLP, independent auditors, as stated in
their report appearing herein, and have been so included in reliance upon the
report of such firm given upon their authority as experts in accounting and
auditing.
    
 
                             AVAILABLE INFORMATION
 
A Registration Statement on Form S-1 relating to the Common Stock offered hereby
has been filed by the Company with the Securities and Exchange Commission (the
"Commission"), Washington, D.C. This Prospectus does not contain all the
information set forth in the Registration Statement and the exhibits and
schedules thereto. Statements contained in this Prospectus with respect to the
contents of any contract or any other document referred to herein are not
necessarily complete and in each instance reference is made to the copy of such
contract or other document filed as an exhibit to the Registration Statement,
each such statement being qualified in all respects by such reference. For
further information with respect to the Company and the Common Stock offered
hereby, reference is hereby made to the Registration Statement and to the
exhibits and schedules thereto. A copy of the Registration Statement may be
inspected by anyone without charge and may be obtained at prescribed rates at
the Commission at the Public Reference Section of the Commission, maintained by
the Commission at its principal office located at 450 Fifth Street, N.W.,
Washington, D.C. 20549. The Commission also maintains a Website
(http://www.sec.gov) that contains reports, proxy and information statements and
other information that is filed electronically with the Commission.
 
                                       49
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                         INDEX TO FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                                                          PAGE
<S>                                                                                                                       <C>
Independent Auditors' Report...........................................................................................    F-2
Balance Sheets as of December 31, 1996 and 1995........................................................................    F-3
Statements of Operations for the Years Ended December 31, 1996, 1995 and 1994..........................................    F-4
Statements of Shareholders' Equity for the Years Ended December 31, 1996, 1995 and 1994................................    F-5
Statements of Cash Flows for the Years Ended December 31, 1996, 1995 and 1994..........................................    F-6
Notes to Financial Statements..........................................................................................    F-7
</TABLE>
    
 
                                      F-1
 
<PAGE>
                          INDEPENDENT AUDITORS' REPORT
 
Shareholders and Board of Directors of Pluma, Inc.:
 
   
We have audited the accompanying balance sheets of Pluma, Inc. as of December
31, 1996 and 1995, and the related statements of operations, shareholders'
equity, and cash flows for each of the three years in the period ended December
31, 1996. These financial statements are the responsibility of the Company's
management. Our responsibility is to express an opinion on these financial
statements based on our audits.
    
 
We conducted our audits in accordance with generally accepted auditing
standards. Those standards require that we plan and perform the audit to obtain
reasonable assurance about whether the financial statements are free of material
misstatement. An audit includes examining, on a test basis, evidence supporting
the amounts and disclosures in the financial statements. An audit also includes
assessing the accounting principles used and significant estimates made by
management, as well as evaluating the overall financial statement presentation.
We believe that our audits provide a reasonable basis for our opinion.
 
   
In our opinion, such financial statements present fairly, in all material
respects, the financial position of Pluma, Inc. at December 31, 1996 and 1995,
and the results of its operations and its cash flows for each of the three years
in the period ended December 31, 1996 in conformity with generally accepted
accounting principles.
    
 
   
DELOITTE & TOUCHE LLP
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
    
 
   
January 28, 1997
    
 
                                      F-2
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                                 BALANCE SHEETS
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                                          DECEMBER 31,
                                                                                                      1996           1995
<S>                                                                                                <C>            <C>
ASSETS
Current assets:
  Cash                                                                                             $   291,488    $   596,429
  Accounts receivable (less allowance -- 1996, $817,080; 1995, $4,069,763)
    (note 5)                                                                                        22,545,795     21,939,763
  Income taxes receivable                                                                                   --      1,057,783
  Deferred income taxes (note 9)                                                                     1,509,535      2,296,429
  Inventories (notes 3 and 5)                                                                       34,025,895     32,169,247
  Other current assets                                                                                 627,576        148,130
    Total current assets                                                                            59,000,289     58,207,781
Property, plant and equipment (note 5):
  Land                                                                                                 599,978        599,978
  Land improvements                                                                                    678,160        662,885
  Buildings and improvements                                                                        14,078,626     13,516,551
  Machinery and equipment                                                                           31,753,681     28,966,411
    Total property, plant and equipment                                                             47,110,445     43,745,825
  Less accumulated depreciation                                                                     17,468,062     13,682,273
    Property, plant and equipment, net                                                              29,642,383     30,063,552
Other assets                                                                                           575,662        341,787
TOTAL                                                                                              $89,218,334    $88,613,120
LIABILITIES AND SHAREHOLDERS' EQUITY
Current liabilities:
  Current maturities of long-term debt (notes 5 and 16)                                            $   849,640    $   849,640
  Note payable -- related party sales agency (note 13)                                                      --      1,999,000
  Accounts payable                                                                                   4,456,770      2,828,781
  Income taxes payable                                                                                 371,500             --
  Accrued expenses, including related party sales agency -- 1995, $152,418
    (notes 4 and 13)                                                                                 3,421,181      2,478,081
      Total current liabilities                                                                      9,099,091      8,155,502
Long-term debt (notes 5 and 16)                                                                     44,419,544     50,120,280
Deferred income taxes (note 9)                                                                       3,556,806      3,435,020
Commitments and contingencies (notes 10 and 12)
 
Shareholders' equity (notes 7, 8 and 17):
  Preferred stock, no par value, 1,000,000 shares authorized                                                --             --
  Common stock, no par value, 15,000,000 shares authorized, shares issued and
    outstanding -- 1996, 5,315,797; 1995, 5,315,797                                                  7,222,550      7,222,550
  Retained earnings                                                                                 24,920,343     19,679,768
      Total shareholders' equity                                                                    32,142,893     26,902,318
TOTAL                                                                                              $89,218,334    $88,613,120
</TABLE>
    
 
                       See notes to financial statements.
 
                                      F-3
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                            STATEMENTS OF OPERATIONS
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                      FOR THE YEARS ENDED DECEMBER 31,
                                                                                     1996            1995           1994
<S>                                                                              <C>             <C>             <C>
Net sales including related party customers -- 1994, $2,313,230
  (notes 13 and 14)                                                              $127,820,319    $100,710,495    $97,907,504
Cost of goods sold (notes 11 and 13)                                              106,247,340      81,429,370     81,408,677
Gross profit                                                                       21,572,979      19,281,125     16,498,827
Selling, general and administrative expenses including related party sales
  agency -- 1995, $3,327,307; 1994, $3,181,467 (notes 10, 13 and 15)                9,149,039      12,384,876      7,300,187
  Termination fee (note 13)                                                                --       2,000,000             --
      Total selling, general and administrative expenses                            9,149,039      14,384,876      7,300,187
Income from operations                                                             12,423,940       4,896,249      9,198,640
Other income (expenses):
  Interest expense (note 5)                                                        (3,735,468)     (3,421,385)    (2,556,134)
  Other income (expenses)                                                             484,058         291,261        (10,794)
  Casualty gain (note 11)                                                                  --              --        312,733
      Total other expenses, net                                                    (3,251,410)     (3,130,124)    (2,254,195)
Income before income taxes                                                          9,172,530       1,766,125      6,944,445
Income taxes (benefit) (note 9):
  Current                                                                           2,445,471       2,029,624      1,888,986
  Deferred                                                                            908,680      (1,370,488)       705,008
      Total income taxes                                                            3,354,151         659,136      2,593,994
Net income                                                                       $  5,818,379    $  1,106,989    $ 4,350,451
  Earnings per common share and common equivalent --
    primary and fully diluted                                                    $       1.09    $        .21    $       .83
Weighted average number of shares outstanding                                       5,315,797       5,315,797      5,244,060
</TABLE>
    
 
                       See notes to financial statements.
 
                                      F-4
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                       STATEMENTS OF SHAREHOLDERS' EQUITY
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                              COMMON STOCK
                                                            (NOTES 7 AND 17)          PAID-IN       RETAINED      SHAREHOLDERS'
                                                          SHARES        AMOUNT        CAPITAL       EARNINGS        EQUITY
<S>                                                      <C>          <C>           <C>            <C>            <C>
Balance, January 1, 1994                                 5,551,420    $3,771,345    $   347,941    $20,990,301    $25,109,587
Sale of common stock                                       161,920       110,000      1,620,300             --      1,730,300
Repurchase of common stock                                (397,543)     (270,070)      (347,941)    (3,630,190)    (4,248,201)
Net income                                                      --            --             --      4,350,451      4,350,451
Dividends ($.11 per share)                                      --            --             --       (569,004)      (569,004)
Balance, December 31, 1994                               5,315,797     3,611,275      1,620,300     21,141,558     26,373,133
Stock split                                                     --     3,611,275     (1,620,300)    (1,990,975)            --
Net income                                                      --            --             --      1,106,989      1,106,989
Dividends ($.11 per share)                                      --            --             --       (577,804)      (577,804)
Balance, December 31, 1995                               5,315,797     7,222,550             --     19,679,768     26,902,318
Net income                                                      --            --             --      5,818,379      5,818,379
Dividends ($.11 per share)                                      --            --             --       (577,804)      (577,804)
Balance, December 31, 1996                               5,315,797    $7,222,550    $        --    $24,920,343    $32,142,893
</TABLE>
    
 
                       See notes to financial statements.
 
                                      F-5
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                            STATEMENTS OF CASH FLOWS
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                        FOR THE YEARS ENDED DECEMBER 31,
                                                                                      1996            1995           1994
<S>                                                                                <C>            <C>             <C>
CASH FLOWS FROM OPERATING ACTIVITIES:
  Net income                                                                       $ 5,818,379    $  1,106,989    $ 4,350,451
  Adjustments to reconcile net income to net cash provided by (used in)
    operating activities:
    Provision for depreciation and amortization                                      3,804,481       3,439,559      2,885,179
    Other, net                                                                        (105,154)         13,260         70,406
    Increase in accounts receivable                                                   (606,032)       (499,523)    (5,629,265)
    (Increase) decrease in income taxes receivable                                   1,057,783      (1,057,783)       436,752
    (Increase) decrease in deferred income taxes                                       908,680      (1,370,488)       705,008
    Increase in inventories                                                         (1,856,648)    (14,046,154)      (523,378)
    Increase (decrease) in accounts payable                                          1,627,989      (1,577,237)     1,595,554
    Increase in accrued expenses                                                       943,100       1,435,387        107,071
    Increase (decrease) in note payable -- related party sales agency               (1,999,000)      1,999,000             --
Net cash provided by (used in) operating activities                                  9,593,578     (10,556,990)     3,997,778
CASH FLOWS FROM INVESTING ACTIVITIES:
  Purchases of property, plant and equipment                                        (3,398,804)     (5,855,714)    (4,494,511)
  Other, net                                                                          (221,175)        (17,342)       (48,418)
Net cash used in investing activities                                               (3,619,979)     (5,873,056)    (4,542,929)
CASH FLOWS FROM FINANCING ACTIVITIES:
  Proceeds from issuance of long-term debt                                                  --              --      1,926,223
  Repayments of long-term debt                                                        (849,640)    (14,102,575)    (1,997,132)
  Borrowings from note payable -- Bank                                              20,000,000       5,000,000      4,418,133
  Repayments of note payable -- Bank                                               (20,000,000)     (5,000,000)    (4,418,133)
  Net borrowings from (repayments of) revolving loan                                (4,851,096)     31,557,000       (371,000)
  Payment of dividends                                                                (577,804)       (577,804)      (569,004)
  Proceeds from sale of common stock                                                        --              --      1,730,300
  Repurchase of common stock                                                                --              --       (849,640)
Net cash provided by (used in) financing activities                                 (6,278,540)     16,876,621       (130,253)
Net increase (decrease) in cash                                                       (304,941)        446,575       (675,404)
Cash, beginning of period                                                              596,429         149,854        825,258
Cash, end of period                                                                $   291,488    $    596,429    $   149,854
Supplemental disclosures of cash flow information:
  Cash paid during the period for:
    Interest                                                                       $ 3,860,064    $  2,538,550    $ 2,556,134
    Income taxes                                                                   $ 1,430,000    $  3,212,641    $ 1,327,000
Noncash financing activities -- A subordinated promissory note was issued in exchange for common stock of $3,398,561 during
  1994 (notes 5 and 7).
</TABLE>
    
 
                       See notes to financial statements.
 
                                      F-6
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                         NOTES TO FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
 
   
(1) ORGANIZATION
    
 
   
Pluma, Inc. (the "Company") is a vertically integrated manufacturer of high
quality fleece and jersey activewear. The Company is focused on increasing sales
and profitability by offering high value products to a diverse customer base.
The Company sells its products, either directly or through its distributors, to
a number of highly recognized companies such as adidas, Nike, Starter Galt and
Walt Disney. In addition, it sells products under its own "Pluma," "SANTEE" and
"SNOWBANK" brand names to retail and wholesale customers such as Sam's Club and
Frank L. Robinson Company. The Company operates in a single business segment.
    
 
(2) SUMMARY OF SIGNIFICANT ACCOUNTING POLICIES
 
   
ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE -- Accounts receivable is reduced by an allowance to the
amount expected to be collected with a charge against net income. Specific
accounts that are considered to be uncollectible are written off by reducing
accounts receivable and the allowance.
    
 
   
INVENTORIES -- Beginning in 1996, raw materials, work-in-progress and finished
goods inventories are valued at the lower of cost, as determined by the last-in,
first-out ("LIFO") method, or market. Production supplies are valued at the
lower of cost, as determined by the first-in, first-out ("FIFO") method, or
market. Prior to 1996, all inventories were valued at the lower of cost, as
determined by the FIFO method, or market. Inventory cost includes material and
conversion costs.
    
 
PROPERTY, PLANT AND EQUIPMENT -- Property, plant and equipment is stated at cost
and is depreciated using the straight-line method for financial reporting
purposes and accelerated method for income tax purposes. Maintenance and repairs
are charged to income and betterments are capitalized.
 
The average estimated useful lives of property for purposes of computing
depreciation are:
 
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
<S>                                                                         <C>
Land improvements                                                            15 years
Buildings and improvements                                                   39 years
Machinery and equipment                                                      10 years
</TABLE>
 
   
SELF-INSURANCE RESERVES -- Self-insurance reserves represent the estimated
liability on medical and workers' compensation claims reported to the Company
plus reserves for claims incurred but not yet reported and the estimated
settlement expenses related to these claims. The liabilities for claims and
related settlement expenses are determined using "case basis" evaluations and
statistical analysis and represent estimates of the ultimate net cost of all
losses incurred through the balance sheet date. The Company's policy is to
discount its workers' compensation reserves at a discount rate not to exceed a
risk-free rate of return on U.S. government securities of similar duration as
the reserves being discounted. Although considerable variability is inherent in
such estimates, management believes that the liabilities for unpaid claims and
related settlement expenses are adequate. The estimates are continually reviewed
by management and, as adjustments to these liabilities become necessary, such
adjustments are reflected in current operations. Self-insurance reserves are
included in accrued expenses.
    
 
INCOME TAXES -- Income taxes are provided on pre-tax earnings as reported in the
financial statements. Deferred income taxes result from temporary differences
between the amounts of assets and liabilities for financial reporting purposes
and such amounts as measured for income tax purposes.
 
   
STOCK OPTIONS -- In October 1995, the Financial Accounting Standards Board
issued SFAS No. 123, "Accounting for Stock-Based Compensation." SFAS No. 123 is
effective for transactions entered into in fiscal years that begin after
December 15, 1995. This statement adopts a "fair value based method" of
accounting for employee stock option plans or similar stock-based compensation
plans. Under the fair value based method, compensation cost is measured at the
grant date based on the fair value of the award and is recognized over the
service or vesting period. The statement does allow entities to continue to
measure compensation using the "intrinsic value based method" of APB No. 25
provided that they make pro forma disclosures on net income and earnings per
common share as if the fair value based method of accounting had been applied.
The Company has elected to continue to follow APB No. 25 (note 8).
    
 
                                      F-7
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                   NOTES TO FINANCIAL STATEMENTS -- CONTINUED
 
TREASURY STOCK -- Under the state laws of North Carolina, shares of stock
repurchased by the Company are considered authorized but unissued shares, and
are reflected as such in the financial statements.
 
   
EARNINGS PER COMMON SHARE AND COMMON EQUIVALENT -- Primary earnings per common
share and common equivalent amounts are based on the weighted average number of
shares actually outstanding plus shares that would be outstanding assuming
exercise of dilutive stock options, all of which are considered to be common
stock equivalents. The number of shares that would be issued from the exercise
of stock options has been reduced by the number of shares that could have been
purchased from the proceeds at the average market price of the Company's stock.
The number of shares used in the computations were 5,315,797 for 1996, 5,315,797
for 1995 and 5,244,060 for 1994. The effect of fully diluting earnings per share
amounts is not material.
    
 
REVENUE RECOGNITION -- The Company recognizes the sale of goods when the goods
are shipped or ownership is assumed by the customer. Sales are recognized net of
estimated returns and allowances.
 
CAPITALIZED SOFTWARE COSTS -- The Company capitalizes certain computer software
costs which are amortized utilizing the straight-line method over the economic
lives of the related products not to exceed five years.
 
   
ACCOUNTING ESTIMATES -- The preparation of financial statements in conformity
with generally accepted accounting principles requires management to make
estimates and assumptions that affect the reported amounts of assets and
liabilities and disclosure of contingent assets and liabilities at the date of
the financial statements and the reported amounts of revenues and expenses
during the reported period. Actual results could differ from these estimates.
For the year ended December 31, 1995, the statement of operations includes a
provision for doubtful accounts receivable which totals $3,250,071 principally
related to 20/20 Sport, a customer that filed for bankruptcy protection. The
Company wrote-off this account in 1996.
    
 
   
RECLASSIFICATIONS -- Certain 1995 and 1994 amounts have been reclassified to
conform with 1996 presentation.
    
 
   
NEW ACCOUNTING STANDARD -- In 1996, the Company adopted SFAS No. 121,
"Accounting for the Impairment of Long-Lived Assets and for Long-Lived Assets to
be Disposed of", which requires that long-lived assets, certain identifiable
intangibles, and goodwill related to those assets to be held and used and to
long-lived assets and certain identifiable intangibles to be disposed of, be
reported at the lower of carrying amount or fair value less cost to sell. An
entity shall review long-lived assets and certain identifiable intangibles to be
held and used for impairment whenever events or changes in circumstances
indicate that the carrying amount of an asset may not be recoverable. An
impairment loss recognized in accordance with this standard shall be measured as
the amount by which the carrying amount of the asset exceeds the fair value of
the asset. Since adoption, no material impairment losses have been recognized.
    
 
(3) INVENTORIES
 
   
Inventories at December 31, 1996 and 1995 consist of the following:
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                            DECEMBER 31,
                                                                        1996           1995
<S>                                                                  <C>            <C>
At FIFO cost:
  Raw materials                                                      $ 1,279,512    $   695,225
  Work-in-progress                                                     3,297,522      2,641,316
  Finished goods                                                      30,037,951     28,718,963
  Production supplies                                                    608,824        725,911
                                                                      35,223,809     32,781,415
Excess of FIFO over LIFO cost                                            (83,930)            --
                                                                      35,139,879     32,781,415
Excess of cost over market                                            (1,113,984)      (612,168)
  Total                                                              $34,025,895    $32,169,247
</TABLE>
    
 
   
During 1996, the Company changed its method of determining the cost of
inventories, except production supplies, from the FIFO method to the LIFO
method. The Company believes the LIFO method more closely relates current costs
with current sales
    
 
                                      F-8
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                   NOTES TO FINANCIAL STATEMENTS -- CONTINUED
 
   
in periods of rising prices. The effect of the change was to decrease net income
for 1996 by $53,212 ($0.01 per share). The change had no effect on prior years
because inventories under the FIFO method at December 31, 1995, as previously
reported, were the amount of the beginning 1996 inventories under the LIFO
method. Accordingly, pro forma results for prior years under the LIFO method are
not applicable.
    
 
   
If the cost of all inventories had been determined by the FIFO method, which
approximates current cost, the cost of inventories would have been $83,930
greater at December 31, 1996.
    
 
(4) ACCRUED EXPENSES
 
   
Accrued expenses at December 31, 1996 and 1995 consist of the following:
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                             DECEMBER 31,
                                                                          1996          1995
<S>                                                                    <C>           <C>
Salaries, commissions and bonuses                                      $ 1,042,786   $   663,672
Interest                                                                   758,239       882,835
Insurance                                                                1,369,549       738,172
Other                                                                      250,607       193,402
  Total                                                                $ 3,421,181   $ 2,478,081
</TABLE>
    
 
(5) LONG-TERM DEBT
 
   
Long-term debt at December 31, 1996 and 1995 consists of the following:
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                            DECEMBER 31,
                                                                         1996           1995
<S>                                                                  <C>            <C>
Revolving loan                                                       $ 43,569,904   $ 48,421,000
Subordinated debt                                                       1,699,280      2,548,920
  Total                                                                45,269,184     50,969,920
Less current maturities                                                   849,640        849,640
  Long-term debt                                                     $ 44,419,544   $ 50,120,280
</TABLE>
    
 
   
On May 25, 1995, the Company renegotiated the revolving loan in its entirety.
All term loans and the prior revolving loan were consolidated into one revolving
loan (the "Loan Agreement") with a maximum borrowing limit of $55,000,000. The
revolving line of credit is subject to defined borrowings based on eligible
assets as defined in the Loan Agreement. Interest is computed daily and payable
quarterly at the lowest borrower selected rate of (a) prime rate minus 25 basis
points, (b) certificates of deposit contract rate or (c) monthly LIBOR contract
rate. The selected rate of interest is determined monthly and is subject to
defined adjustments pursuant to the interest coverage ratio. At December 31,
1996 and 1995, the interest rate was 6.86% and 7.04%, respectively. A fee is
payable quarterly based on the product of the unused commitment margin times the
difference between the committed amount during the prior quarter and the average
daily balance of the loans outstanding during such quarter.
    
 
   
Among the various provisions, limitations and restrictions contained in the Loan
Agreement, the Company must meet specified tangible net worth, debt to equity
ratio and interest coverage ratio requirements. Under the Loan Agreement, the
Company is restricted in the amount of its capital expenditures, indebtedness to
certain other parties, or redemption of its stock that would create an event of
default. In the event of default, unless a waiver is not obtained, the Company's
dividends are prohibited. The Loan Agreement may be terminated at any time upon
the occurrence of an event of default. The Company retains the right to remedy
certain events of default within 10 days after notice. The Company was in
compliance with all covenants as of December 31, 1996. The Company was in
violation of the indebtedness and capital leases, transactions with related
persons, capital
    
 
                                      F-9
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                   NOTES TO FINANCIAL STATEMENTS -- CONTINUED
 
   
expenditures, liabilities to equity ratio, and interest coverage ratio covenants
and obtained waivers for these violations as of December 31, 1995. The Company
was in compliance with all other covenants.
    
 
Long-term debt is collateralized by substantially all accounts receivable,
inventories and property.
 
   
The Company issued a promissory note dated January 28, 1994 to a former
officer/shareholder in connection with the repurchase of his stock (see note 7).
This note matures on January 31, 1998 and requires annual payments of $849,640.
Interest on the unpaid principal balance is paid quarterly at an annual rate of
5.0%, since May 1, 1994. The promissory note is subordinated to the Loan
Agreement. The Company's obligations under the promissory note are secured by
the shares repurchased from the former officer/shareholder. In the event the
Company is in default under the terms of the promissory note, the former
officer/shareholder will be entitled to have the Company's Common Stock
re-issued to him. The number of shares to be re-issued in the event of default
will be determined by dividing the amount due under the note at the time of such
default by the fair value of the Company's Common Stock shares at such time.
    
 
   
Future aggregate annual payments on long-term debt are $849,640, $849,640, and
$43,569,904 for 1997, 1998 and 2000, respectively.
    
 
(6) NOTE PAYABLE -- BANK
 
   
On April 16, 1996, the Company borrowed $10,000,000 at the rate of monthly LIBOR
plus 150 basis points. During September 1996, the Company repaid the April 1996
note and borrowed $10,000,000 bearing interest at the rate of monthly LIBOR plus
120 basis points. The principal was repaid during November 1996 (note 17).
    
 
(7) CAPITAL STOCK
 
   
On January 28, 1997, the Board of Directors declared a 0.736-for-one reverse
common stock split for shareholders of record on February 3, 1997. On June 27,
1995, the Board of Directors declared a two-for-one common stock split for
shareholders of record on October 1, 1995. The shares were issued on November
27, 1995. All references in the accompanying financial statements to the number
of common shares and per share amounts reflect the stock split and reverse stock
split.
    
 
On July 22, 1996, the Company amended its Articles of Incorporation changing the
par value of Common Stock from $1.00 per share to Common Stock having no par
value and authorizing 1,000,000 shares of no par value Preferred Stock.
 
   
In December of 1995, the shareholders of the Company adopted an amendment to the
Articles of Incorporation to increase the Company's authorized shares of Common
Stock from 8,000,000 to 15,000,000, which was effective January 10, 1996.
    
 
   
During the years ended December 31, 1996, 1995 and 1994, the Company held stock
exchanges under the terms of its Stock Transfer and Redemption Agreement adopted
by the Company on June 10, 1991. Numerous transactions among authorized parties
(as defined in the agreement) took place under these exchanges. The Company did
not repurchase shares during 1996, 1995 and 1994 under the Stock Transfer and
Redemption Agreement.
    
 
   
On January 28, 1994, the Company repurchased 397,543 shares of Common Stock
owned by a former officer/shareholder at $10.686 per share. Twenty percent of
the purchase price, or $849,640, was paid in cash with the balance to be paid
under terms of a promissory note (note 5).
    
 
   
During the year ended December 31, 1994, the Company held a private placement of
stock. The Company received $1,730,300 (161,920 shares issued at $10.686 per
share) as a result of the stock offering.
    
 
(8) STOCK OPTIONS
 
   
In October 1995, the Company adopted the 1995 Stock Option Plan in which
515,200 shares of the Company's Common Stock may be issued. The exercise price
of the options may not be less than the fair value of the Common Stock on the
date of grant. The options granted become exercisable at such time or times as
shall be determined by the Compensation Committee of the Board of Directors
(the "Committee"). The Committee may at any time accelerate the exercisability
of all or any portion of any stock option. These options expire, if not
exercised, ten years from the date of grant. Participants in
    
 
                                      F-10
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                   NOTES TO FINANCIAL STATEMENTS -- CONTINUED
 
the Plan may be independent contractors or employees of independent
contractors, full or part-time officers and other employees of the Company, or
independent directors of the Company.
 
   
In October 1995 and April 1996, the Company granted 379,776 and 32,384 options,
respectively, to purchase Common Stock at an exercise price of $13.077 per
share of which 117,171 and 58,880 options are exercisable as of December 31,
1996 and 1995, respectively. 29,440 options were forfeited as of December 31,
1995. The remaining 265,549 options become exercisable in 20% increments on the
anniversary dates of the grants as follows:
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
  YEAR      SHARES
<S>         <C>
1997         64,768
1998         64,768
1999         64,768
2000         64,768
2001          6,477
  Total     265,549
</TABLE>
    
 
   
The Company applies APB No. 25 and related interpretations in accounting for
the 1995 Stock Option Plan. Accordingly, no compensation cost has been
recognized since the exercise price approximates the fair value of the stock
price at the grant dates. Had compensation cost been determined based on the
fair value at the grant dates consistent with the method of SFAS No. 123, the
Company's net income and earnings per share would have been reduced to the pro
forma amounts indicated below:
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                       YEARS ENDED DECEMBER 31,
                                                                          1996          1995
<S>                                                                    <C>           <C>
Net income:
  As reported                                                          $ 5,818,379   $ 1,106,989
  Pro forma                                                              5,679,877       444,500
Earnings per share:
  As reported                                                          $      1.09   $       .21
  Pro forma                                                                   1.07           .08
</TABLE>
    
 
   
A summary of the status of the Company's 1995 Stock Option Plan as of December
31, 1996 and 1995, and changes during the years ending on those dates is
presented below:
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                 WEIGHTED- AVERAGE
                                                                      SHARES      EXERCISE PRICE
<S>                                                                   <C>        <C>
Outstanding January 1, 1995                                                --              --
  Granted                                                             379,776        $ 13.077
  Forfeited                                                           (29,440)         13.077
Outstanding, December 31, 1995                                        350,336          13.077
  Granted                                                              32,384          13.077
Outstanding, December 31, 1996                                        382,720          13.077
</TABLE>
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                DECEMBER 31,
                                                                              1996        1995
<S>                                                                         <C>         <C>
Options exercisable at year end                                             $ 117,171   $ 58,880
 
Weighted average fair value of options
  granted during the year                                                   $    3.04   $   6.60
</TABLE>
    
 
                                      F-11
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                   NOTES TO FINANCIAL STATEMENTS -- CONTINUED
 
   
At December 31, 1996, the outstanding options have a weighted average remaining
contractual life of 8.9 years. All outstanding options and exercisable options
have an exercise price of $13.077.
    
 
   
The fair value of each option grant is estimated on the date of grant using the
Black-Scholes option-pricing model with the following weighted average
assumptions used for grants in 1996 and 1995, respectively: dividend yield of
0.8% and 1.2%; expected volatility of 40.9% and 41.2%, risk-free interest rates
of 5.9% and 6.8%; and expected lives of 5 years for both years.
    
 
   
(9) INCOME TAXES
    
 
   
The provision for income tax expense for the years ended December 31, 1996,
1995 and 1994 consists of the following:
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                            YEARS ENDED DECEMBER 31,
                                                                                        1996          1995           1994
<S>                                                                                  <C>           <C>            <C>
Current federal income tax expense                                                   $2,178,903    $ 1,808,190    $1,658,236
Current state income tax expense                                                        266,568        221,434       230,750
  Total current income tax expense                                                    2,445,471      2,029,624     1,888,986
Deferred federal income tax expense (benefit)                                           809,689     (1,202,587)      637,156
Deferred state income tax expense (benefit)                                              98,991       (167,901)       67,852
  Total deferred income tax expense (benefit)                                           908,680     (1,370,488)      705,008
  Total income tax expense                                                           $3,354,151    $   659,136    $2,593,994
</TABLE>
    
 
The provision for income taxes differs from the amount computed by applying the
U.S. federal income tax rate (34%) because of the effect of the following items:
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                              YEARS ENDED DECEMBER 31,
                                                                                           1996         1995         1994
<S>                                                                                     <C>           <C>         <C>
Income taxes computed at U.S. federal statutory rate                                    $3,118,660    $600,482    $2,361,111
State income taxes, net of federal income tax effect                                       243,027      47,473       196,862
Other, net                                                                                  (7,536)     11,181        36,021
  Total income tax expense                                                              $3,354,151    $659,136    $2,593,994
</TABLE>
    
 
                                      F-12
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                   NOTES TO FINANCIAL STATEMENTS -- CONTINUED
 
Deferred income taxes result from temporary differences between the tax basis
of assets and liabilities and their reported amounts in the financial
statements. Significant components comprising the Company's net deferred tax
assets and liabilities were as follows:
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                        DECEMBER 31,
                                                                                    1996           1995
<S>                                                                              <C>            <C>
Deferred tax liabilities:
  Current -- Prepaid insurance                                                   $   (74,642)   $   (54,287)
  Long-term -- Property, plant and equipment                                      (3,556,806)    (3,435,020)
    Total deferred tax liabilities                                                (3,631,448)    (3,489,307)
Deferred tax assets:
  Current --
    Bad debt reserve                                                                 196,951      1,328,963
    Medical reserve                                                                  170,823         73,276
    Uniform capitalization                                                           634,729        699,121
    Returns reserve                                                                  102,443        162,545
    Workers' compensation reserve                                                    220,585         86,811
    LIFO market write-down                                                           258,646             --
      Total deferred tax assets                                                    1,584,177      2,350,716
  Net deferred tax liability                                                     $(2,047,271)   $(1,138,591)
</TABLE>
    
 
(10) LEASES
 
   
At December 31, 1996, the Company was committed to pay rentals under various
noncancelable operating leases with lease terms in excess of one year as
follows:
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
<S>                          <C>
Year ending December 31,
         1997                $ 1,875,457
         1998                  1,390,164
         1999                  1,066,478
         2000                  1,006,990
         2001                    929,884
       Thereafter      5,257,869
           Total     $11,526,842
</TABLE>
    
 
Lease agreements frequently include renewal options and require that the
Company pay for utilities, taxes, insurance and maintenance expenses. Options
to purchase are also included in some lease agreements.
 
   
Rental expense under all leases accounted for as operating leases was
$2,145,061, $1,730,932 and $1,414,971 for the years ended December 31, 1996,
1995 and 1994, respectively (see note 13).
    
 
(11) INSURANCE SETTLEMENT
 
   
On August 17, 1994, a tornado partially destroyed one of the Company's leased
warehouses and substantially damaged finished goods inventory. The inventory
loss was covered by insurance. Insurance and salvage proceeds were $1,763,431.
Most of the proceeds are reflected as a reduction of cost of goods sold
($1,450,698) to offset expense and inventory losses incurred as a result of the
storm. The proceeds in excess of inventory costs and miscellaneous expenses are
reflected in the financial statements as other income ($312,733).
    
 
                                      F-13
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                   NOTES TO FINANCIAL STATEMENTS -- CONTINUED
 
(12) COMMITMENTS AND CONTINGENCIES
 
   
The Company has Employment Agreements with its senior executive officers, the
terms of which expire December 1998. Upon termination of an Employment
Agreement after a change of control in the Company, as defined, the Company
would be liable for a maximum of three times the eligible employee's, as
defined, (i) average annual salary, as defined, and (ii) any bonuses, as
defined. In addition, under the Employment Agreements, the senior executive
officers are entitled to annual incentive bonus payments if specified
management goals are attained under Pluma's Bonus Plan.
    
 
The Company maintains a Sales Incentive Plan payable to the sales staff if
specified sales volume is reached.
 
   
Arising out of the conduct of its business, on occasion, various claims, suits
and complaints have been filed or are pending against the Company. In the
opinion of management, all matters are adequately covered by insurance or, if
not covered, are without merit or are of such kind, or involve such amounts, as
would not have a material effect on the financial position or results of
operations of the Company if disposed of unfavorably.
    
 
(13) RELATED PARTY TRANSACTIONS
 
   
During the years ended December 31, 1995 and 1994, sales commissions of
$3,327,307 and $3,181,467, respectively, at a rate of 3.0% of the aggregate
sales price of orders shipped by the Company, plus marketing reimbursements,
were paid to the Company's sales agency, a company owned by a certain
shareholder and director of the Company. At December 31, 1995, $152,418 was due
the sales agency. During December 1995, the Company entered into an agreement
for the termination of the sales contract with the sales agency. Under the
terms of this agreement, the Company paid the sales agency $1,000 on December
29, 1995 and $1,999,000 with a promissory note that was paid in full in January
1996. Since December 31, 1995, the Company has not paid commissions to the
sales agency for sales subsequent to December 31, 1995. Selling, general and
administrative expenses would have been $12,384,876 if the cost of terminating
the sales agreement were excluded for the year ended December 31, 1995. The
Company will be liable for any returns or uncollectible accounts resulting from
sales prior to December 31, 1995. The sales agency and the Company have
released and discharged each other from any and all past, present and future
actions.
    
 
   
The Company has various operating leases from certain shareholders. The leases
have terms of approximately one to 14 years with aggregate monthly payments of
$98,751, $65,254 and $63,150 in the years ended 1996, 1995 and 1994,
respectively. Total operating lease expense for 1996, 1995 and 1994 was
$1,144,193, $773,600, and $507,120, respectively. As of December 31, 1996,
future minimum lease payments under these operating leases totaled $8,603,330.
    
 
   
The Company leased sewing equipment and accessories from relatives of an
officer/director. Lease payments under these leases were $28,650 in 1994.
Equipment under these leases was purchased by the Company for $98,384 during
1994 after the leases expired.
    
 
   
A contractor performed miscellaneous work totaling $478,646, $31,032 and
$40,358 for the years ended December 31, 1996, 1995 and 1994, respectively.
Certain shareholders of the Company are affiliated with the contractor.
    
 
   
The president of one of the Company's major customers was re-elected to the
Board of Directors at the annual shareholders' meeting in April 1995. The
Company had sales in 1994 of $2,313,230 to this customer. These sales were
consummated on terms equivalent to those that prevail in arm's-length
transactions.
    
 
   
During 1996 and 1995, the Company made payments totaling $223,338 and $247,324,
respectively, for contract services rendered to the Company for packaging and
preparing Company products for shipment. A director/shareholder is affiliated
with this contractor.
    
 
   
During 1996, the Company contracted for fabric dyeing totaling $42,776 with a
contractor owned by a director of the Company. The Company had sales to this
contractor in 1996 of $80,005 and had a balance due of $67,096 at December 31,
1996.
    
 
   
During 1996, the Company made payments to a contractor totaling $121,395 for
advisory fees. A director/shareholder is affiliated with this contractor. At
December 31, 1996, $10,014 was due this contractor.
    
 
                                      F-14
 
<PAGE>
                                  PLUMA, INC.
 
                   NOTES TO FINANCIAL STATEMENTS -- CONTINUED
 
(14) SALES TO MAJOR CUSTOMERS AND CONCENTRATIONS OF CREDIT RISK
 
A substantial amount of sales and receivables are to relatively few customers.
Credit limits, ongoing credit evaluations and account monitoring procedures are
utilized to minimize the risk of loss. Collateral is generally not required.
 
   
In 1996, two customers accounted for approximately 24.1% and 14.7%,
respectively, of net sales. In 1995, three customers accounted for
approximately 16.1%, 12.8% and 11.4%, respectively, of net sales. In 1994,
three customers accounted for approximately 13.2%, 10.4% and 10.1% of net sales.
    
 
(15) 401(K) RETIREMENT SAVINGS PLAN
 
The Company maintains a 401(k) retirement savings plan for the benefit of its
employees who have completed at least one year of service and have attained age
21. The amount of the Company's annual matching contribution is discretionary,
and the Company currently funds accrued profit sharing expenses.
 
   
During 1996, 1995 and 1994, the Company contributed $161,461, $129,378 and
$121,279, respectively, to the 401(k) retirement savings plan.
    
 
(16) FINANCIAL INSTRUMENTS
 
   
The following methods and assumptions were used to estimate the fair value of
each class of financial instruments for which it is practicable to estimate
that value. The carrying amount of cash, accounts receivable and trade accounts
payable is a reasonable estimate of fair value. The fair value of long-term
debt is estimated based on quoted market prices. At December 31, 1996, the
carrying value and the fair value of long-term debt totaled $45,269,184 and
$44,458,592, respectively. All financial instruments are held for purposes
other than trading.
    
 
   
(17) EVENTS SUBSEQUENT TO DECEMBER 31, 1996
    
 
   
On January 28, 1997, the Board of Directors declared a 0.736-for-one reverse
common stock split for shareholders of record on February 3, 1997 (note 7).
    
 
                                      F-15
 


<PAGE>
                     INFORMATION NOT REQUIRED IN PROSPECTUS
 
ITEM 13. OTHER EXPENSES OF ISSUANCE AND DISTRIBUTION
 
The following table sets forth the costs and expenses, other than underwriting
discounts and commissions incurred or to be incurred in connection with the
issuance and sale of the Common Stock being registered (all amounts are
estimated except the Securities and Exchange Commission registration fee, the
National Association of Securities Dealers, Inc. filing fee and Nasdaq National
Market listing fee).
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
<S>                                                                                          <C>
Securities and Exchange Commission registration fee.......................................   $ 15,124
National Association of Securities Dealers, Inc. filing fee...............................      5,491
New York Stock Exchange listing fee.......................................................     57,500
Blue sky fees and expenses................................................................     10,000
Printing expenses.........................................................................    100,000
Legal fees and expenses...................................................................    300,000
Accounting fees and expenses..............................................................    300,000
Investment advisor's fee..................................................................     60,000
Transfer agent and registrar fees.........................................................     11,500
Miscellaneous.............................................................................        385
         Total............................................................................   $860,000
</TABLE>
    
 
   
ITEM 16. EXHIBITS AND FINANCIAL STATEMENTS SCHEDULE.
    
 
(a) Exhibits
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
    EXHIBIT
     NUMBER                                                    DESCRIPTION OF EXHIBIT
 
<S>               <C>
 1.1              Form of Underwriting Agreement
 
 3.1*             Amended and Restated Articles of Incorporation
 
 3.2*             Bylaws as amended
 
 5.1              Opinion of Allman Spry Leggett & Crumpler, P. A.
 
10.1*             Lease Agreement dated June 10, 1989, by and between North Bowles Partnership and Pluma, Inc. and amendment
                  thereto dated December 1, 1990
 
10.2.1*           Lease Agreement dated February 1, 1996, by and between North Bowles Partnership and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.2.2*           Lease Agreement dated December 1, 1995, by and between North Bowles Partnership and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.3*             License Agreement dated December 4, 1990, by and between Superba, Inc. and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.4*             Loan and Security Agreement dated May 25, 1995, between First Union National Bank of North Carolina and Pluma,
                  Inc.
 
10.5*             Promissory Note in the principal amount of $55,000,000 dated May 25, 1995 by Pluma, Inc. in favor of First Union
                  National Bank of North Carolina
 
10.6*             Promissory Note in the principal amount of $10,000,000 dated April 16, 1996 in favor of First Union National
                  Bank of North Carolina.
 
10.7*             Trademark License Agreement dated July 2, 1996, by and between Pluma, Inc. and Kayser Roth Corporation
 
10.8.1*           Agreement and Release dated September 16, 1993, by and between Glazier B. Piland and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.8.2*           Stock Redemption Agreement dated September 16, 1993, between Pluma, Inc. and Glazier B. Piland
 
10.8.3*           Amendment to Stock Redemption Agreement dated October 21, 1993, between Pluma, Inc. and Glazier B. Piland
 
10.8.4*           Promissory Note in the principal amount of $3,398,560.88 dated January 28, 1994 by Pluma, Inc. to Glazier B.
                  Piland
 
10.8.5*           Security Agreement dated January 28, 1994, by and between Pluma, Inc. and Glazier B. Piland
</TABLE>
    
 
                                      II-1
 
<PAGE>
   
<TABLE>
<S>               <C>
10.8.6*           Subordination Agreement by and among Glazier B. Piland, First Union National Bank and Pluma, Inc. dated January
                  28, 1994.
 
10.9.1*           Agreement of Termination and Release dated December 29, 1995, by and between Box & Company, Inc. and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.9.2*           Promissory Note in the principal amount of $1,999,000.00 dated December 29, 1995 by Pluma, Inc. to Box &
                  Company, Inc.
 
10.9.3*           Assignment of Lease dated as of December 29, 1995 by and between Box & Company, Inc. and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.10*            Lease Agreement dated April 1, 1995, by and between Tultex Corporation and Box & Company, Inc.
 
10.11*            Adoption Agreement #005 Nonstandardized Code (section mark)401(k) Profit Sharing Plan by Pluma, Inc. to First
                  Union National Bank of North Carolina dated November 30, 1993 and Amendments thereto
 
10.12*            1995 Stock Option Plan of Pluma, Inc.
 
10.13*            Form of Incentive Stock Option Agreement by and among Pluma, Inc. and the Named Officers
 
10.14*            Form of Nonstatutory Stock Option Agreement by and among Pluma, Inc. and its Directors
 
10.15*            Pluma, Inc. Non-Qualified Deferred Compensation Plan
 
10.16             Pluma, Inc. Senior Executive Bonus Plan
 
10.17             Pluma, Inc. Sales Incentive Plan
 
10.18.1*          License Agreement dated October 9, 1996 between SAP America, Inc. and Pluma, Inc. for license to utilize SAP R/3
                  Software
 
10.18.2*          Professional Services Agreement dated October 9, 1996 between SAP America, Inc and Pluma, Inc. for installation
                  of R/3 Software
 
10.19.1*          Consulting Agreement dated January 17, 1996, between Philpott, Ball & Company and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.19.2           Consulting Agreement dated December 6, 1996 between Philpott, Ball & Company and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.20*            Form of Sale and Purchase Agreement dated May 10,1995, by and between Sara Lee Corporation and Pluma, Inc. for
                  approximately 42 acres of improved real estate located in Rocky Mount, Virginia
 
10.21*            Form of Employment Agreement by and among Pluma, Inc. and R. Duke Ferrell Jr., G. Walker Box, George G. Wade, C.
                  Monroe Light, David S. Green, Walter Helton, Raymond Rea, Nancy Barksdale, Forrest H. Truitt, II, Milton A.
                  Barber and Jeffrey D. Cox
 
11.1**            Statement re: Computation of Per Share Earnings
 
23.1              Consent of Deloitte & Touche LLP.
 
23.2              Consent of Allman Spry Leggett & Crumpler P.A. (to be included in the opinion filed herewith as Exhibit 5).
 
24*               Power of Attorney included as the signature page hereto
</TABLE>
    
 
   
 * Previously filed
    
 
   
** Can be clearly determined from the material contained in the Registration
   Statement
    
 
   
    (b)Financial Statements
    
 
   
    Financial Statements filed as part of this Registration Statement are listed
    
in the Index to Financial Statements as page F-1.
 
                                      II-2
 
<PAGE>
                                   SIGNATURES
 
   
    Pursuant to the requirements of the Securities Act of 1933, the registrant
has duly caused this amendment to the registration statement to be signed on its
behalf by the undersigned, thereunto duly authorized, in the City of
Winston-Salem, State of North Carolina, on February 4, 1997.
    
 
                                         PLUMA, INC.
 
                                         By: /s/      R. DUKE FERRELL, JR.
                                                   R. DUKE FERRELL, JR.
                                           PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
 
   
    Pursuant to the requirements of the Securities Act of 1933, this amendment
to the registration statement has been signed by the following persons in the
capacities and on the dates indicated.
    
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                      SIGNATURE                                             TITLE                              DATE
<S>                                                     <C>                                             <C>
 
                           GEORGE G. WADE *             Chairman Emeritus of the Board of Directors     February 4, 1997
                    GEORGE G. WADE
 
                            G. WALKER BOX *             Chairman of the Board of Directors              February 4, 1997
                    G. WALKER BOX
 
        /s/              R. DUKE FERRELL, JR.           President, Chief Executive Officer and          February 4, 1997
                 R. DUKE FERRELL, JR.                     Director
 
                          C. MONROE LIGHT *             Executive Vice President and Director           February 4, 1997
                   C. MONROE LIGHT
 
                      FORREST H. TRUITT, II *           Executive Vice President of Finance             February 4, 1997
                FORREST H. TRUITT, II                     (Principal Financial Officer)
 
                        NANCY B. BARKSDALE *            Vice President (Principal Accounting Officer)   February 4, 1997
                  NANCY B. BARKSDALE
 
                        WILLIAM K. MILESKI *            Director                                        February 4, 1997
                  WILLIAM K. MILESKI
 
                          BARRY A. BOWLES *             Director                                        February 4, 1997
                   BARRY A. BOWLES
 
                             KEMP D. BOX *              Director                                        February 4, 1997
                     KEMP D. BOX
 
                        R. STEPHENS PANNILL *           Director                                        February 4, 1997
                 R. STEPHENS PANNILL
</TABLE>
    
 
                                      II-3
 
<PAGE>
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                      SIGNATURE                                             TITLE                              DATE
<S>                                                     <C>                                             <C>
                        DR. DAVID C. JONES *            Director                                        February 4, 1997
                  DR. DAVID C. JONES
 
                     J. ROBERT PHILPOTT, JR. *          Director                                        February 4, 1997
               J. ROBERT PHILPOTT, JR.
 
        * By: /s/         R. DUKE FERRELL, JR.          Attorney in Fact
                 R. DUKE FERRELL, JR.
                   ATTORNEY IN FACT
</TABLE>
    
 
                                      II-4
 
<PAGE>
                                 EXHIBIT INDEX
 
   
<TABLE>
<CAPTION>
                                                                                          SEQUENTIALLY
 EXHIBIT                                                                                    NUMBERED
 NUMBER                              DESCRIPTION OF EXHIBIT                                   PAGE
 
<S>        <C>                                                                            <C>
 1.1       Form of Underwriting Agreement
 
 3.1*      Amended and Restated Articles of Incorporation
 
 3.2*      Bylaws as amended
 
 5.1       Opinion of Allman Spry Leggett & Crumpler, P. A.
 
10.1*      Lease Agreement dated June 10, 1989, by and between North Bowles
           Partnership and Pluma, Inc. and amendment thereto dated December 1, 1990
 
10.2.1*    Lease Agreement dated February 1, 1996, by and between North Bowles
           Partnership and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.2.2*    Lease Agreement dated December 1, 1995, by and between North Bowles
           Partnership and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.3*      License Agreement dated December 4, 1990, by and between Superba, Inc. and
           Pluma, Inc.
 
10.4*      Loan and Security Agreement dated May 25, 1995, between First Union
           National Bank of North Carolina and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.5*      Promissory Note in the principal amount of $55,000,000 dated May 25, 1995
           by Pluma, Inc. in favor of First Union National Bank of North Carolina
 
10.6*      Promissory Note in the principal amount of $10,000,000 dated April 16, 1996
           in favor of First Union National Bank of North Carolina.
 
10.7*      Trademark License Agreement dated July 2, 1996, by and between Pluma, Inc.
           and Kayser Roth Corporation
 
10.8.1*    Agreement and Release dated September 16, 1993, by and between Glazier B.
           Piland and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.8.2*    Stock Redemption Agreement dated September 16, 1993, between Pluma, Inc.
           and Glazier B. Piland
 
10.8.3*    Amendment to Stock Redemption Agreement dated October 21, 1993, between
           Pluma, Inc. and Glazier B. Piland
 
10.8.4*    Promissory Note in the principal amount of $3,398,560.88 dated January 28,
           1994 by Pluma, Inc. to Glazier B. Piland
 
10.8.5*    Security Agreement dated January 28, 1994, by and between Pluma, Inc. and
           Glazier B. Piland
 
10.8.6*    Subordination Agreement by and among Glazier B. Piland, First Union
           National Bank and Pluma, Inc. dated January 28, 1994.
 
10.9.1*    Agreement of Termination and Release dated December 29, 1995, by and
           between Box & Company, Inc. and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.9.2*    Promissory Note in the principal amount of $1,999,000.00 dated December 29,
           1995 by Pluma, Inc. to Box & Company, Inc.
 
10.9.3*    Assignment of Lease dated as of December 29, 1995 by and between Box &
           Company, Inc. and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.10*     Lease Agreement dated April 1, 1995, by and between Tultex Corporation and
           Box & Company, Inc.
 
10.11*     Adoption Agreement #005 Nonstandardized Code(section mark)401(k) Profit
           Sharing Plan by Pluma, Inc. to First Union National Bank of North Carolina
           dated November 30, 1993 and Amendments thereto
 
10.12*     1995 Stock Option Plan of Pluma, Inc.
 
10.13*     Form of Incentive Stock Option Agreement by and among Pluma, Inc. and the
           Named Officers
</TABLE>
    
 
<PAGE>
   
<TABLE>
<S>        <C>                                                                            <C>
10.14*     Form of Nonstatutory Stock Option Agreement by and among Pluma, Inc. and
           its Directors
 
10.15*     Pluma Inc. Non-Qualified Deferred Compensation Plan
 
10.16      Pluma, Inc. Senior Executive Bonus Plan
 
10.17      Pluma, Inc. Sales Incentive Plan
 
10.18.1*   License Agreement dated October 9, 1996 between SAP America, Inc. and
           Pluma, Inc. for license to utilize SAP R/3 Software
 
10.18.2*   Professional Services Agreement dated October 9, 1996 between SAP America,
           Inc and Pluma, Inc. for installation of R/3 Software
 
10.19.1*   Consulting Agreement dated January 17, 1996, between Philpott Ball &
           Company and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.19.2    Consulting Agreement dated December 6, 1996 between Philpott, Ball &
           Company and Pluma, Inc.
 
10.20*     Form of Sale and Purchase Agreement dated May 10,1995, by and between Sara
           Lee Corporation and Pluma, Inc. for approximately 42 acres of improved real
           estate located in Rocky Mount, Virginia
 
10.21*     Form of Employment Agreement by and among Pluma, Inc. and R. Duke Ferrell,
           G. Walker Box, George G. Wade, C. Monroe Light, David S. Green, Walter
           Helton, Raymond Rea, Nancy Barksdale, Forrest H. Truitt, II; Milton A. Gus
           Barber and Jeffrey D. Cox
 
11.1**     Statement re: Computation of Per Share Earnings
 
23.1       Consent of Deloitte & Touche LLP
 
23.2       Consent of Allman Spry Leggett & Crumpler P.A. (to be included in the
           opinion filed herewith as Exhibit 5)
 
24*        Power of Attorney included as the signature page hereto
</TABLE>
    
 
   
 * Previously Filed
    
 
   
** Can be clearly determined from the material contained in the Registration
   Statement
    


<PAGE>

                                          Artwork - Pluma

Back Inside Page

[A photograph of several fleece and jersey garments bearing the Company labels 
of Santee, Pluma and Snowbank.]

<PAGE>

Back Fold Out

[Text and photographs of Company facilities and manufacturing processes 
overlaid on a background photograph of the Company's storage area in its 
Distribution Center.]

Test reads as follows:

PLUMA--a vision by several entrepreneurs of a company with the ability to 
cost effectively produce higher quality activewear and sell to a more diverse 
customer base than was common in the industry. In 1986, using more than 100
years of collective experience in the textile industry, these men, who now serve
as Directors and/or Executive Officers of the company, made the vision a 
reality.

Pluma's Eden textile facility located in Eden, North Carolina houses the 
Company's dyeing, finishing, cutting and pre-assembly operations.

Pluma operates a three-building complex in Martinsville, Virginia, which 
serves as its central packaging and distribution facility.

Pluma operates modern, high-speed circular knitting machines that produce a 
variety of cotton/polyester blend fabrics ranging from 50% cotton/50% polyester
to 100% cotton.

Pluma produces color consistent fabrics with the aid of computer-controlled, 
pressurized dyeing operations. Pluma's finishing process includes napping 
fleece fabric to produce a soft and heavy feel.

Pluma utilizes Bierrebi automatic continuous-cutting machines with computer-
controlled hydraulic die-cutting heads to improve consistency and efficiency 
in cutting operations and to reduce the amount of fabric waste.

Component parts of Pluma's garments, such as cuffs and sleeves, are pre-
assembled using automatic sewing equipment to reduce garment assembly time.

Pluma uses its own patented tandem sewing table for final garment assembly 
of a significant portion of its products.

<PAGE>

(Pluma logo) 




                                   PLUMA, INC.

                             ________________ Shares

                                  Common Stock

                             Underwriting Agreement



                                                            _____________, 1997


J.P. Morgan Securities Inc.
Interstate/Johnson Lane Corporation
Wheat, First Securities, Inc.
  As Representative
   of the Several Underwriters
   Listed in Schedule I hereto
c/o J.P. Morgan Securities Inc.
60 Wall Street
New York, New York  10260

Dear Sirs:

                  Pluma,  Inc., a North Carolina  corporation  (the  "Company"),
proposes  to issue and sell to the  several  Underwriters  listed in  Schedule I
hereto (the  "Underwriters"),  for whom you are acting as  representatives  (the
"Representatives"),  and  certain  shareholders  of the  Company  (the  "Selling
Shareholders")  named in  Schedule  II hereto  severally  propose to sell to the
several  Underwriters,  an aggregate of _______  shares of common stock,  no par
value (the "Underwritten  Shares"),  of which ______ shares are to be issued and
sold  by  the  Company  and  ______  shares  are  to  be  sold  by  the  Selling
Shareholders,  each Selling  Shareholder  selling the amount set forth  opposite
such  Selling  Shareholder's  name in  Schedule  II hereto.  The Company and the
Selling Shareholders are hereinafter  sometimes  collectively referred to as the
"Sellers."

                  In addition, for the sole purpose of covering  over-allotments
in connection with the sale of the Underwritten  Shares, the Company has granted
the Underwriters an option to purchase up to an additional



<PAGE>



_________  shares of common  stock,  no par value,  of the Company  (the "Option
Shares").  To the extent such option is exercised,  each Underwriter will become
obligated,  subject to certain  conditions,  to purchase  approximately the same
percentage  of such  additional  shares as the  number  set  forth  next to such
Underwriter's  name in Schedule I bears to the total  number of shares set forth
in such  Schedule I. The  Underwritten  Shares and the Option  Shares are herein
referred  to as the  "Shares."  The shares of common  stock of the Company to be
outstanding after giving effect to the sale of the Shares are herein referred to
as the "Common Stock."

                  The Company has  prepared  and filed with the  Securities  and
Exchange  Commission (the "Commission") in accordance with the provisions of the
Securities  Act of 1933,  as  amended,  and the  rules  and  regulations  of the
Commission  thereunder  (collectively,  the  "Securities  Act"),  a registration
statement,  including a  prospectus,  relating to the Shares.  The  registration
statement  as  amended  at the time  when it shall  become  effective,  or, if a
post-effective  amendment  is filed  with  respect  thereto,  as amended by such
post-effective  amendment  at the time of its  effectiveness,  including in each
case information (if any) deemed to be part of the registration statement at the
time of effectiveness  pursuant to Rule 430A under the Securities Act,  together
with  any  related   registration   statement  filed  with  the  Commission  for
registration of a portion of the Shares that becomes effective  pursuant to Rule
462(b)  under the  Securities  Act,  is  referred  to in this  Agreement  as the
"Registration  Statement",  and the prospectus in the form first used to confirm
sales of Shares is referred to in this Agreement as the "Prospectus".

                  The Sellers hereby agree with the Underwriters as follows:

                  1. Each Seller, severally and not jointly, agrees to issue and
sell  the  Underwritten  Shares  to  the  several  Underwriters  as  hereinafter
provided,  and each  Underwriter,  upon the  basis  of the  representations  and
warranties herein contained,  but subject to the conditions  hereinafter stated,
agrees to purchase,  severally and not jointly,  from such Seller the respective
number of  Underwritten  Shares set forth  opposite such  Underwriter's  name in
Schedule I hereto at a purchase price (the "Purchase Price") of $____ per share.

                  In addition,  the Company  agrees to issue and sell the Option
Shares to the several Underwriters as hereinafter provided, and the Underwriters
on the basis of the



                                        2

<PAGE>



representations  and warranties herein contained,  but subject to the conditions
hereafter stated, shall have the option to purchase,  severally and not jointly,
from the Company up to an aggregate of ___ Option  Shares at the Purchase  Price
for the  sole  purpose  of  covering  over-allotments  (if  any) in the  sale of
Underwritten Shares by the several Underwriters.

                  If any Option Shares are to be purchased, the number of Option
Shares to be purchased by each Underwriter  shall be the number of Option Shares
which  bears the same  ratio to the  aggregate  number of  Option  Shares  being
purchased as the number of  Underwritten  Shares set forth  opposite the name of
such  Underwriter in Schedule I hereto (or such amount increased as set forth in
Section 10 hereof) bears to the aggregate  number of  Underwritten  Shares being
purchased from the Sellers by the several  Underwriters,  subject,  however,  to
such adjustments to eliminate any fractional  shares as the  Representatives  in
their sole discretion shall make.

                  The  Underwriters  may  exercise  the option to  purchase  the
Option  Shares at any time (but not more than once) on or before  the  thirtieth
day  following  the  date  of  this  Agreement,   by  written  notice  from  the
Representatives to the Company. Such notice shall set forth the aggregate number
of Option Shares as to which the option is being exercised and the date and time
when the Option  Shares are to be  delivered  and paid for which may be the same
date and time as the  Closing  Date (as  hereinafter  defined)  but shall not be
earlier  than the Closing  Date nor later than the tenth full  Business  Day (as
hereinafter  defined)  after the date of such notice  (unless such time and date
are postponed in accordance with the provisions of Section 10 hereof).  Any such
notice shall be given at least two  Business  Days prior to the date and time of
delivery specified therein.

                  2. The Sellers understand that the Underwriters  intend (i) to
make a public  offering of the Shares as soon after the  Registration  Statement
and  this   Agreement   have  become   effective  as  in  the  judgment  of  the
Representatives  is  advisable  and (ii)  initially to offer the Shares upon the
terms set forth in the Prospectus.

                  3.  Payment for the Shares  shall be made to each Seller or to
its order by  certified  or  official  bank check or checks  payable in New York
Clearing House or other next day funds at the office of J.P.  Morgan  Securities
Inc.,  60 Wall  Street,  New York,  New York 10260 at 10:00 A.M.,  New York City
time, in the case of the Underwritten Shares, on _______, 1996, or at such other
time on the same or such other date, not later than the fifth Business Day


                                        3

<PAGE>



thereafter, as the Representatives and the Company may agree upon in writing or,
in the  case of the  Option  Shares,  on the  date  and  time  specified  by the
Representatives in the written notice of the Underwriters'  election to purchase
such  Option  Shares.  The time and date of such  payment  for the  Underwritten
Shares are referred to herein as the Closing Date and the time and date for such
payment  for the Option  Shares,  if other  than the  Closing  Date,  are herein
referred to as the Additional  Closing Date. As used herein,  the term "Business
Day" means any day other than a day on which banks are  permitted or required to
be closed in New York City.

                  Payment for the Shares to be  purchased on the Closing Date or
Additional  Closing Date, as the case may be, shall be made against  delivery to
the Representatives  for the respective accounts of the several  Underwriters of
the Shares to be  purchased  on such date  registered  in such names and in such
denominations as the Representatives shall request in writing not later than two
full Business Days prior to the Closing Date or the Additional  Closing Date, as
the case may be with any transfer taxes payable in connection  with the transfer
to the  Underwriters  of the Shares duly paid. The  certificates  for the Shares
will be made available for inspection  and packaging by the  Representatives  at
the office of J.P.  Morgan  Securities  Inc. set forth above not later than 1:00
P.M.,  New York City time,  on the Business Day prior to the Closing Date or the
Additional Closing Date, as the case may be.

                  4.   The Company represents and warrants to each
Underwriter that:

                  (a)  no  order   preventing  or  suspending  the  use  of  any
         preliminary  prospectus  has been  issued by the  Commission,  and each
         preliminary  prospectus filed as part of the Registration  Statement as
         originally filed or as part of any amendment thereto, or filed pursuant
         to Rule 424 under the  Securities  Act,  complied  when so filed in all
         material  respects  with the  Securities  Act,  and did not  contain an
         untrue  statement of a material  fact or omit to state a material  fact
         required  to be stated  therein  or  necessary  to make the  statements
         therein,  in the light of the circumstances under which they were made,
         not misleading;  provided that this  representation  and warranty shall
         not apply to any  statements or omissions  made in reliance upon and in
         conformity with  information  relating to any Underwriter  furnished to
         the Company in writing by such Underwriter  through the Representatives
         expressly for use therein;



                                        4

<PAGE>



                  (b)  no  stop  order  suspending  the   effectiveness  of  the
         Registration  Statement  has been  issued  and no  proceeding  for that
         purpose  has been  instituted  or,  to the  knowledge  of the  Company,
         threatened  by the  Commission;  and  the  Registration  Statement  and
         Prospectus  (as  amended  or  supplemented  if the  Company  shall have
         furnished  any  amendments  or  supplements  thereto)  comply,  or will
         comply,  as  the  case  may  be,  in all  material  respects  with  the
         Securities Act and do not and will not, as of the applicable  effective
         date as to the Registration  Statement and any amendment thereto and as
         of the date of the Prospectus and any amendment or supplement  thereto,
         contain any untrue  statement  of a material  fact or omit to state any
         material  fact  required to be stated  therein or necessary to make the
         statements  therein not misleading,  and the Prospectus,  as amended or
         supplemented  at the Closing Date, if applicable,  will not contain any
         untrue  statement of a material  fact or omit to state a material  fact
         necessary  to  make  the  statements  therein,  in  the  light  of  the
         circumstances  under which they were made, not misleading;  except that
         the  foregoing  representations  and  warranties  shall  not  apply  to
         statements or omissions in the Registration Statement or the Prospectus
         made in reliance upon and in conformity  with  information  relating to
         any Underwriter furnished to the Company in writing by such Underwriter
         through the Representatives expressly for use therein;

                  (c) the financial  statements,  and the related notes thereto,
         included  in the  Registration  Statement  and the  Prospectus  present
         fairly the  consolidated  financial  position  of the Company as of the
         dates indicated and the results of their  operations and the changes in
         their consolidated cash flows for the periods specified; said financial
         statements  have been prepared in conformity  with  generally  accepted
         accounting principles applied on a consistent basis, and the supporting
         schedules  included in the  Registration  Statement  present fairly the
         information  required  to be stated  therein;  the pro forma  financial
         information,   and  the  related   notes   thereto,   included  in  the
         Registration  Statement  and the  Prospectus  is based  upon good faith
         estimates and assumptions believed by the Company to be reasonable; and
         the  accountants  who have  certified  or shall  certify the  financial
         statements  filed or to be filed  with  the  Commission  as part of the
         Registration Statement are independent  accountants with respect to the
         Company as required by the Securities Act;


                                        5

<PAGE>




                  (d)  since the  respective  dates as of which  information  is
         given in the Registration  Statement and the Prospectus,  there has not
         been any  material  adverse  change,  or any  development  involving  a
         prospective  material  adverse  change,  in or  affecting  the  general
         affairs,   business,   prospects,   management,   financial   position,
         stockholders' equity or results of operations of the Company, otherwise
         than as set forth or contemplated in the Prospectus;  and except as set
         forth or contemplated in the Registration Statement the Company has not
         entered  into  any  transaction  or  agreement  (whether  or not in the
         ordinary course of business) material to the Company;

                  (e) the  Company  has been duly  incorporated  and is  validly
         existing as a corporation  in good standing under the laws of the State
         of North  Carolina,  with power and authority  (corporate and other) to
         own its  properties  and  conduct  its  business  as  described  in the
         Prospectus,  and has been duly qualified as a foreign  corporation  for
         the  transaction  of business and is in good standing under the laws of
         each  other  jurisdiction  in which it owns or  leases  properties,  or
         conducts any business, so as to require such qualification,  other than
         where the failure to be so qualified or in good standing would not have
         a  material  adverse  effect  on  the  Company;   the  Company  has  no
         subsidiaries;

                  (f)  this Agreement has been duly authorized,
         executed and delivered by the Company;

                  (g) the authorized capital stock of the Company conforms as to
         legal matters to the description  thereof set forth in the Registration
         Statement  and the  Prospectus,  and all of the  outstanding  shares of
         capital  stock of the  Company  have been duly  authorized  and validly
         issued,  are fully-paid and  non-assessable  and are not subject to any
         pre-emptive or similar rights; and, except as described in or expressly
         contemplated  by  the  Prospectus,  there  are  no  outstanding  rights
         (including, without limitation, preemptive rights), warrants or options
         to acquire,  or instruments  convertible into or exchangeable  for, any
         shares of capital stock or other equity interest in the Company, or any
         contract,  commitment,  agreement,  understanding or arrangement of any
         kind relating to the issuance of any capital stock of the Company,  any
         such  convertible  or  exchangeable  securities  or  any  such  rights,
         warrants or options;


                                        6

<PAGE>



                  (h) the Shares to be issued and sold by the Company  hereunder
         have been duly  authorized,  and, when delivered to and paid for by the
         Underwriters in accordance with the terms of this Agreement,  will have
         been duly  issued  and will be fully paid and  non-assessable  and will
         conform to the descriptions thereof in the Prospectus; and the issuance
         of the Shares is not subject to any preemptive or similar right;

                  (i) the  Company is not, or with the giving of notice or lapse
         of time or both would not be, in violation of or in default under,  its
         Certificate of  Incorporation  or By-Laws or any  indenture,  mortgage,
         deed of trust, loan agreement or other agreement or instrument to which
         the  Company  is a  party  or by  which  it or any  of  its  respective
         properties  is  bound,   except  for   violations  and  defaults  which
         individually and in the aggregate are not material to the Company;  the
         issue and sale of the Shares and the  performance by the Company of its
         obligations   under  this  Agreement  and  the   consummation   of  the
         transactions  contemplated herein will not conflict with or result in a
         breach of any of the terms or  provisions  of, or  constitute a default
         under, any indenture,  mortgage, deed of trust, loan agreement or other
         material  agreement or instrument to which the Company is a party or by
         which the Company is bound or to which any of the property or assets of
         the  Company  is  subject,  nor  will  any such  action  result  in any
         violation of the provisions of the Certificate of  Incorporation or the
         By-Laws of the Company or any  applicable  law or statute or any order,
         rule or regulation of any court or  governmental  agency or body having
         jurisdiction over the Company, or any of its respective properties; and
         no   consent,   approval,   authorization,   order,   registration   or
         qualification of or with any such court or governmental  agency or body
         is required for the issue and sale of the Shares or the consummation by
         the Company of the transactions contemplated by this Agreement,  except
         such   consents,    approvals,    authorizations,    registrations   or
         qualifications  as have been obtained  under the  Securities Act and as
         may be required  under state  securities or Blue Sky Laws in connection
         with the purchase and distribution of the Shares by the Underwriters;

                  (j) other than as set forth or contemplated in the Prospectus,
         there  are no legal or  governmental  proceedings  pending  or,  to the
         knowledge of the Company,  threatened to which the Company is or may be
         a


                                        7

<PAGE>



         party or to which any  property of the Company is or may be the subject
         which, if determined adversely to the Company, could individually or in
         the aggregate  reasonably be expected to have a material adverse effect
         on the general  affairs,  business,  prospects,  management,  financial
         position, stockholders' equity or results of operations of the Company,
         and, to the best of the Company's  knowledge,  no such  proceedings are
         threatened or contemplated by governmental authorities or threatened by
         others;  and there are no contracts  or other  documents of a character
         required  to be filed as an exhibit to the  Registration  Statement  or
         required  to  be  described  in  the  Registration   Statement  or  the
         Prospectus which are not filed or described as required.

                  (k) the Company has good and marketable title in fee simple to
         all  items  of real  property  and  good  and  marketable  title to all
         personal  property  it owns,  in each case free and clear of all liens,
         encumbrances and defects except such as are described or referred to in
         the  Prospectus or such as do not  materially  affect the value of such
         property and do not interfere  with the use made or proposed to be made
         of such  property by the Company;  and any real  property and buildings
         held under lease by the Company and is held under  valid,  existing and
         enforceable  leases with such exceptions as are not material and do not
         interfere with the use made or proposed to be made of such property and
         buildings by the Company;

                  (l) no  relationship,  direct or indirect,  exists between the
         Company on the one hand,  and the  directors,  officers,  stockholders,
         customers or  suppliers  of the Company or on the other hand,  which is
         required by the  Securities  Act to be  described  in the  Registration
         Statement and the Prospectus which is not so described;

                  (m) no person has the right to require the Company to register
         any securities for offering and sale under the Securities Act by reason
         of the filing of the Registration  Statement with the Commission or the
         issue and sale of the Shares;

                  (n) the Company  and its  subsidiaries  (i) are in  compliance
         with any and all applicable foreign,  federal, state and local laws and
         regulations  relating to the protection of human health and safety, the
         environment or hazardous or toxic  substances or wastes,  pollutants or
         contaminants  ("Environmental  Laws"),  (ii) have received all permits,
         licenses or other approvals


                                        8

<PAGE>



         required of them under applicable  Environmental  Laws to conduct their
         respective  businesses  and (iii) are in compliance  with all terms and
         conditions of any such permit,  license or approval,  except where such
         noncompliance  with  Environmental  Laws,  failure to receive  required
         permits,  licenses  or other  approvals  or failure to comply  with the
         terms and conditions of such permits,  licenses or approvals would not,
         singly or in the  aggregate,  reasonably be expected to have a material
         adverse effect on the general affairs, business, prospects, management,
         financial  position,  stockholders'  equity or results of operations of
         the Company (a "Material Adverse Effect");

                  (o) in  the  ordinary  course  of its  business,  the  Company
         conducts a periodic review of the effect of  Environmental  Laws on the
         business,   operations   and   properties   of  the   Company  and  its
         subsidiaries,  in the  course  of which  it  identifies  and  evaluates
         material   associated   costs  and  liabilities   (including,   without
         limitation, any material capital or operating expenditures required for
         clean-up,  closure of properties or compliance with  Environmental Laws
         or any permit, license or approval, any material related constraints on
         operating  activities and any material  potential  liabilities to third
         parties).  On the basis of such  review,  the  Company  has  reasonably
         concluded that such associated costs and liabilities  could not, singly
         or in the aggregate,  reasonably be expected to have a Material Adverse
         Effect;

                  (p)  the Company has complied with all provisions
         of Section 517.075, Florida Statutes (Chapter 92-198,
         Laws of Florida); and

                  (q) all tax  returns  required  to be filed by the Company and
         any of the Subsidiaries in any jurisdiction have been filed, other than
         those filings being  contested in good faith,  and all material  taxes,
         including withholding taxes, penalties and interest,  assessments, fees
         and other charges due or claimed to be due from such entities have been
         paid,  other than (i) those being contested in good faith and for which
         adequate  reserves have been  provided,  (ii) those  currently  payable
         without penalty or interest and (iii) those which,  if not paid,  would
         not have a Material Adverse Effect.

                  5.       Each Selling Shareholder represents and
warrants to each Underwriter that:


                                        9

<PAGE>



                  (a)      this Agreement has been duly authorized,
executed and delivered by or on behalf of such Selling
Shareholder;

                  (b) the execution and delivery by such Selling Shareholder of,
and the performance by such Selling  Shareholder of its obligations  under, this
Agreement,  the  Custody  Agreement  signed  by  such  Selling  Shareholder  and
__________,  as  Custodian,  relating to the deposit of the Shares to be sold by
such Selling  Shareholder  (the "Custody  Agreement")  and the Power of Attorney
appointing certain individuals as such Selling  Shareholder's  attorneys-in-fact
to the extent  set forth  therein,  relating  to the  transactions  contemplated
hereby and by the  Registration  Statement  (the "Power of  Attorney")  will not
contravene any provision of applicable law, or the certificate of  incorporation
or  by-laws  of such  Selling  Shareholder  (if such  Selling  Shareholder  is a
corporation),  or any  agreement or other  instrument  binding upon such Selling
Shareholder or any judgment, order or decree of any governmental body, agency or
court  having  jurisdiction  over  such  Selling  Shareholder,  and no  consent,
approval,  authorization  or order of, or  qualification  with, any governmental
body or agency is required for the  performance  by such Selling  Shareholder of
its  obligations  under this  Agreement  or the  Custody  Agreement  or Power of
Attorney  of such  Selling  Shareholder,  except  such as may be required by the
securities or Blue Sky laws of the various  states in connection  with the offer
and sale of the Sellers;

                  (c) such  Selling  Shareholders  has,  and on the Closing Date
will have, valid title to the Shares to be sold by such Selling  Shareholder and
the legal right and power, and all  authorization  and approval required by law,
to enter into this  Agreement,  the Custody  Agreement and the Power of Attorney
and to  sell,  transfer  and  deliver  the  Shares  to be sold  by such  Selling
Shareholder;

                  (d) the Shares to be sold by such Selling Shareholder pursuant
to this Agreement have been duly authorized and are validly  issued,  fully paid
and non-assessable;

                  (e) the Custody  Agreement and the Power of Attorney have been
duly  authorized,  executed and  delivered by such Selling  Shareholder  and are
valid and binding agreements of such Selling Shareholder; and

                  (f)      delivery of the Shares to be sold by such
Selling Shareholder pursuant to this Agreement will pass


                                       10

<PAGE>



title to such Shares free and clear of any security  interests,  claims,  liens,
equities and other encumbrances.

                  6.   The Company covenants and agrees with the
several Underwriters as follows:

                  (a)  to  use  its  best  efforts  to  cause  the  Registration
         Statement to become  effective at the  earliest  possible  time and, if
         required,  to file the final Prospectus with the Commission  within the
         time  periods  specified  by  Rule  424(b)  and  Rule  430A  under  the
         Securities Act;

                  (b)  to  deliver,  at  the  expense  of  the  Company,  to the
         Representative,  4 signed  copies  of the  Registration  Statement  (as
         originally  filed) and each amendment  thereto,  in each case including
         exhibits,  and to  each  other  Underwriter  a  conformed  copy  of the
         Registration   Statement  (as  originally  filed)  and  each  amendment
         thereto, in each case without exhibits and, during the period mentioned
         in paragraph (e) below,  to each of the  Underwriters as many copies of
         the Prospectus  (including all amendments and  supplements  thereto) as
         the Representatives may reasonably request;

                  (c)  before   filing  any   amendment  or  supplement  to  the
         Registration  Statement or the Prospectus,  whether before or after the
         time the Registration  Statement becomes  effective,  to furnish to the
         Representative  a copy of the  proposed  amendment  or  supplement  for
         review and not to file any such  proposed  amendment or  supplement  to
         which the Representatives reasonably object;

                  (d) to advise  the  Representatives  promptly,  and to confirm
         such  advice in  writing,  (i) when the  Registration  Statement  shall
         become effective, (ii) when any amendment to the Registration Statement
         shall have become effective, (iii) of any request by the Commission for
         any  amendment  to  the  Registration  Statement  or any  amendment  or
         supplement to the Prospectus or for any additional information, (iv) of
         the  issuance  by the  Commission  of any  stop  order  suspending  the
         effectiveness  of  the  Registration  Statement  or the  initiation  or
         threatening of any proceeding for that purpose,  and (v) of the receipt
         by the Company of any  notification  with respect to any  suspension of
         the  qualification of the Shares for offer and sale in any jurisdiction
         or the  initiation or  threatening  of any proceeding for such purpose;
         and to use its best efforts to prevent the issuance of any


                                       11

<PAGE>



         such stop order or notification and, if issued, to
         obtain as soon as possible the withdrawal thereof;

                  (e) if, during such period of time after the first date of the
         public  offering  of the Shares as in the  opinion  of counsel  for the
         Underwriters a prospectus  relating to the Shares is required by law to
         be  delivered  in  connection  with  sales by the  Underwriters  or any
         dealer,  any event shall occur as a result of which it is  necessary to
         amend or  supplement  the  Prospectus  in order to make the  statements
         therein,  in the  light of the  circumstances  when the  Prospectus  is
         delivered  to a  purchaser,  not  misleading,  or if it is necessary to
         amend or supplement  the  Prospectus  to comply with law,  forthwith to
         prepare and furnish, at the expense of the Company, to the Underwriters
         and to the dealers (whose names and addresses the Representatives  will
         furnish  to the  Company)  to which  Shares  may have  been sold by the
         Representatives  on behalf of the Underwriters and to any other dealers
         upon request,  such  amendments or supplements to the Prospectus as may
         be necessary so that the  statements in the Prospectus as so amended or
         supplemented  will  not,  in the  light of the  circumstances  when the
         Prospectus  is delivered to a purchaser,  be  misleading or so that the
         Prospectus will comply with law;

                  (f) to endeavor to qualify the Shares for offer and sale under
         the  securities  or  Blue  Sky  laws  of  such   jurisdictions  as  the
         Representatives   shall   reasonably   request  and  to  continue  such
         qualification in effect so long as reasonably required for distribution
         of the  Shares  and to pay all fees and  expenses  (including  fees and
         disbursements of counsel to the  Underwriters)  reasonably  incurred in
         connection with such qualification; provided that the Company shall not
         be  required  to file a general  consent  to  service of process in any
         jurisdiction;

                  (g) to make generally available to its security holders and to
         the  Representatives  as  soon as  practicable  an  earnings  statement
         covering a period of at least twelve  months  beginning  with the first
         fiscal quarter of the Company occurring after the effective date of the
         Registration  Statement,  which shall satisfy the provisions of Section
         11(a) of the Securities Act and Rule 158 of the Commission  promulgated
         thereunder;

                  (h) so long as the Shares are  outstanding,  to furnish to the
         Representatives   copies  of  all   reports  or  other   communications
         (financial or other) furnished to


                                       12

<PAGE>



         holders of Shares, and copies of any reports and
         financial statements furnished to or filed with the
         Commission or any national securities exchange;

                  (i) for a period  of 180 days  after  the date of the  initial
         public offering of the Shares not to offer,  sell,  contract to sell or
         otherwise  dispose of any shares of common  stock of the Company or any
         securities  convertible  into or exercisable or exchangeable for shares
         of common  stock of the Company  without the prior  written  consent of
         J.P. Morgan Securities Inc., other than the Shares to be sold hereunder
         and any shares of common stock of the Company  issued upon the exercise
         of  options  granted  under  existing   employee  stock  option  plans,
         including the Pluma, Inc. 1995 Stock Option Plan;

                  (j) to pay all costs and expenses  incident to the performance
         of its obligations hereunder, including without limiting the generality
         of  the  foregoing,   all  costs  and  expenses  (i)  incident  to  the
         preparation,  issuance,  execution  and  delivery of the  Shares,  (ii)
         incident to the  preparation,  printing and filing under the Securities
         Act of the Registration  Statement,  the Prospectus and any preliminary
         prospectus  (including  in  each  case  all  exhibits,  amendments  and
         supplements   thereto),   (iii)   incurred  in   connection   with  the
         registration  or  qualification  of the  Shares  under the laws of such
         state and  local  jurisdictions  as the  Representative  may  designate
         (including fees of counsel for the Underwriters and its disbursements),
         (iv)  in  connection  with  the  listing  of the  Shares  on any  stock
         exchange, (v) related to the filing with, and clearance of the offering
         by, the National  Association of Securities  Dealers,  Inc. and (vi) in
         connection with the printing (including word processing and duplication
         costs) and delivery of this Agreement, the Preliminary and Supplemental
         Blue Sky Memoranda and the furnishing to the  Underwriters  and dealers
         of copies of the Registration  Statement and the Prospectus,  including
         mailing and shipping, as herein provided.

                  7. The several  obligations of the  Underwriters  hereunder to
purchase the  Underwritten  Shares are subject to the performance by the Sellers
of their obligations hereunder and to the following additional conditions:

                  (a) the Registration Statement shall have become effective (or
         if a  post-effective  amendment  is  required  to be  filed  under  the
         Securities  Act,  such  post-effective   amendment  shall  have  become
         effective)


                                       13

<PAGE>



         not later than 5:00 P.M.,  New York City time, on the date hereof;  and
         no  stop  order  suspending  the   effectiveness  of  the  Registration
         Statement shall be in effect, and no proceedings for such purpose shall
         be pending before or threatened by the Commission; and all requests for
         additional   information   shall  have  been   complied   with  to  the
         satisfaction of the Representative;

                  (b)  the   representations   and  warranties  of  the  Sellers
         contained  herein are true and correct on and as of the Closing Date as
         if made  on and as of the  Closing  Date  and the  Sellers  shall  have
         complied  with all  agreements  and all  conditions on their part to be
         performed or satisfied hereunder at or prior to the Closing Date;

                  (c) subsequent to the execution and delivery of this Agreement
         and  prior to the  Closing  Date,  there  shall not have  occurred  any
         downgrading,  nor shall any notice have been given of (i) any  intended
         or  potential  downgrading  or (ii) any review or possible  change that
         does not indicate an improvement, in the rating accorded any securities
         of  or  guaranteed  by  the  Company  by  any  "nationally   recognized
         statistical rating organization",  as such term is defined for purposes
         of Rule 436(g)(2) under the Securities Act;

                  (d)  since the  respective  dates as of which  information  is
         given in the Prospectus  there shall not have been any material adverse
         change or any  development  involving a  prospective  material  adverse
         change,  in or  affecting  the general  affairs,  business,  prospects,
         management,  financial  position,  stockholders'  equity or  results of
         operations of the Company,  otherwise than as set forth or contemplated
         in  the  Prospectus,  the  effect  of  which  in  the  judgment  of the
         Representative  makes it  impracticable  or inadvisable to proceed with
         the public  offering or the  delivery of the Shares on the terms and in
         the manner contemplated in the Prospectus;

                  (e) the  Representative  shall have  received on and as of the
         Closing  Date a  certificate  of an  executive  officer of the  Company
         satisfactory  to  the   Representative  to  the  effect  set  forth  in
         subsections  (a) through (c) of this Section and to the further  effect
         that  there  has not  occurred  any  material  adverse  change,  or any
         development  involving a prospective  material  adverse  change,  in or
         affecting  the  general  affairs,  business,   prospects,   management,
         financial


                                       14

<PAGE>



         position, stockholders' equity or results of operations
         of the Company from that set forth or contemplated in
         the Registration Statement;

                  (f) Allman  Spry  Leggett &  Crumpler,  P.A.,  counsel for the
         Company,  shall have  furnished  to the  Representative  their  written
         opinion,  dated the Closing Date, in form and substance satisfactory to
         the Representative, to the effect that:

                           (i) the  Company  has been duly  incorporated  and is
                  validly  existing as a corporation  in good standing under the
                  laws of its  jurisdiction  of  incorporation,  with  power and
                  authority  (corporate  and  other) to own its  properties  and
                  conduct its business as described in the Prospectus;

                      (ii) the  Company  has been  duly  qualified  as a foreign
                  corporation  for the  transaction  of business  and is in good
                  standing under the laws of each other jurisdiction in which it
                  owns or leases properties,  or conducts any business, so as to
                  require such qualification, other than where the failure to be
                  so  qualified  or in good  standing  would not have a material
                  adverse effect on the Company;

                      (iii)  other  than as set  forth  or  contemplated  in the
                  Prospectus,  to the best of such counsel's knowledge after due
                  inquiry,  there  are  no  legal  or  governmental  proceedings
                  pending  or  threatened  to which the  Company  is or may be a
                  party or to which any property of the Company is or may be the
                  subject  which,  if determined  adversely to the Company could
                  individually  or in the  aggregate  reasonably  be expected to
                  have  a  material  adverse  effect  on  the  general  affairs,
                  business,   prospects,    management,    financial   position,
                  stockholders'  equity or results of  operations of the Company
                  taken as a whole; to the best of such counsel's knowledge,  no
                  such   proceedings   are   threatened   or   contemplated   by
                  governmental  authorities  or threatened  by others;  and such
                  counsel does not know of any contracts or other documents of a
                  character   required   to  be  filed  as  an  exhibit  to  the
                  Registration  Statement  or  required to be  described  in the
                  Registration  Statement or the Prospectus  which are not filed
                  or described as required;



                                       15

<PAGE>



                           (iv)  this   Agreement  has  been  duly   authorized,
                  executed and delivered by the Company;

                           (v)  the  authorized  capital  stock  of the  Company
                  conforms  as to  legal  matters  to  the  description  thereof
                  contained in the Prospectus;

                           (vi) the  shares  of  capital  stock  of the  Company
                  outstanding  prior to the issuance of the Shares to be sold by
                  the Company have been duly  authorized and are validly issued,
                  fully paid and non-assessable;

                           (vii) the Shares to be issued and sold by the Company
                  hereunder have been duly authorized, and when delivered to and
                  paid for the Underwriters in accordance with the terms of this
                  Agreement,   will  be   validly   issued,   fully   paid   and
                  non-assessable  and the  issuance of the Shares is not subject
                  to any preemptive or similar rights;

                           (viii)  the  Company  is not,  or with the  giving of
                  notice or lapse of time or both would not be, in  violation of
                  or in default  under,  its  Certificate  of  Incorporation  or
                  By-Laws  or any  indenture,  mortgage,  deed  of  trust,  loan
                  agreement  or  other  agreement  or  instrument  known to such
                  counsel to which the  Company is a party or by which it or any
                  of its respective  properties is bound,  except for violations
                  and defaults which  individually  and in the aggregate are not
                  material to the Company;  the issue and sale of the Shares and
                  the performance by the Company of its  obligations  under this
                  Agreement   and   the   consummation   of   the   transactions
                  contemplated  herein  will not  conflict  with or  result in a
                  breach of any of the terms or  provisions  of, or constitute a
                  default under, any indenture,  mortgage,  deed of trust,  loan
                  agreement or other material  agreement or instrument  known to
                  such  counsel to which the  Company is a party or by which the
                  Company is bound or to which any of the  property or assets of
                  the Company is subject, nor will any such action result in any
                  violation   of   the   provisions   of  the   Certificate   of
                  Incorporation, or the By-Laws of the Company or any applicable
                  law or statute or any order,  rule or  regulation of any court
                  or governmental  agency or body having  jurisdiction  over the
                  Company or any of its respective properties;


                                       16

<PAGE>



                           (ix)  no  consent,  approval,  authorization,  order,
                  registration  or   qualification  of  or  with  any  court  or
                  governmental agency or body is required for the issue and sale
                  of the Shares or the  consummation  of the other  transactions
                  contemplated   by  this   Agreement,   except  such  consents,
                  approvals, authorizations,  registrations or qualifications as
                  have  been  obtained  under the  Securities  Act and as may be
                  required under state securities or Blue Sky laws in connection
                  with  the  purchase  and  distribution  of the  Shares  by the
                  Underwriter;

                           (x)   the   statements   in  the   Prospectus   under
                  "____________",    "Description    of   Capital   Stock"   and
                  "Underwriting",  and in the Registration Statement in Items 14
                  and 15, insofar as such statements constitute a summary of the
                  legal matters,  documents or proceedings  referred to therein,
                  fairly present the information called for with respect to such
                  legal matters, documents or proceedings; and

                           (xi)  such  counsel  (A) is of the  opinion  that the
                  Registration  Statement and the  Prospectus and any amendments
                  and supplements  thereto (except for the financial  statements
                  included  therein as to which  such  counsel  need  express no
                  opinion)  comply as to form in all material  respects with the
                  requirements  of the  Securities  Act  and (B)  believes  that
                  (except for the financial  statements  included  therein as to
                  which such counsel  need  express no belief) the  Registration
                  Statement and the prospectus  included therein at the time the
                  Registration  Statement  became  effective did not contain any
                  untrue  statement  of a  material  fact  or  omit  to  state a
                  material  fact  required to be stated  therein or necessary to
                  make  the  statements  therein  not  misleading,  and that the
                  Prospectus as amended or supplemented, if applicable, does not
                  contain  any untrue  statement  of a material  fact or omit to
                  state  a  material  fact   necessary  in  order  to  make  the
                  statements  therein,  in the light of the circumstances  under
                  which they were made, not misleading.

                           In rendering such opinions, such counsel may rely (A)
         as to matters  involving the application of laws other than the laws of
         the United States and the State of North  Carolina,  to the extent such
         counsel deems proper and to the extent specified in such



                                       17

<PAGE>



         opinion,   if  at  all,   upon  an  opinion  or  opinions   (reasonably
         satisfactory  to  Underwriters'  counsel) of other  counsel  reasonably
         acceptable to the Underwriters'  counsel,  familiar with the applicable
         laws;  and (B) as to matters of fact,  to the extent such counsel deems
         proper,  on  certificates  of  responsible  officers of the Company and
         certificates or other written  statements of officials of jurisdictions
         having custody of documents  respecting the corporate existence or good
         standing of the  Company.  The opinion of such  counsel for the Company
         shall  state  that the  opinion  of any such  other  counsel is in form
         satisfactory  to such  counsel  and,  in such  counsel's  opinion,  the
         Underwriters and they are justified in relying thereon. With respect to
         the matters to be covered in subparagraph (xi) above, counsel may state
         their  opinion  and  belief is based upon  their  participation  in the
         preparation  of the  Registration  Statement and the Prospectus and any
         amendment  or  supplement  thereto  and  review and  discussion  of the
         contents  thereof  but is  without  independent  check or  verification
         except as specified.

                  (g) The  Underwriters  shall have received on the Closing Date
         an opinion or opinions of counsel  (satisfactory  to the  Underwriters)
         for the Selling  Shareholders,  dated the Closing  Date,  to the effect
         that:

                           (i)  this Agreement has been duly authorized,
                  executed and delivered by or on behalf of each of
                  the Selling Shareholders;

                           (ii)  the  execution  and  delivery  by each  Selling
                  Shareholder   of,  and  the   performance   by  such   Selling
                  Shareholder of its obligations  under,  this Agreement and the
                  Custody  Agreement  and  Powers of  Attorney  of such  Selling
                  Shareholder  will not  contravene  any provision of applicable
                  law, or the  certificates of  incorporation or by-laws of such
                  Selling   Shareholder  (if  such  Selling   Shareholder  is  a
                  corporation), or, to the best of such counsel's knowledge, any
                  agreement  or  other  instrument  binding  upon  such  Selling
                  Shareholder or, to the best or such counsel's  knowledge,  any
                  judgment,  order or decree of any governmental body, agency or
                  court having jurisdiction over such Selling  Shareholder,  and
                  no   consent,   approval   authorization   or  order   of,  or
                  qualification   with,  any  governmental  body  or  agency  is
                  required for the  performance  by such Selling  Shareholder of
                  its

                                       18

<PAGE>



                  obligations  under this Agreement or the Custody  Agreement or
                  Power of Attorney of such Selling Shareholder,  except such as
                  may be  required  by the  securities  or Blue  Sky laws of the
                  various  states  in  connection  with  offer  and  sale of the
                  Shares;

                           (iii)  each of the  selling  Shareholders  has  valid
                  title to the Shares to be sold by such Selling Shareholder and
                  has the  legal  right and  power,  and all  authorization  and
                  approval required by law, to enter into this Agreement and the
                  Custody  Agreement  and  Power  of  Attorney  of such  Selling
                  Shareholder and to sell, transfer and deliver the Shares to be
                  sold by such Selling Shareholder;

                           (iv)   the   Custody   Agreement   of  each   Selling
                  Shareholder has been duly  authorized,  executed and delivered
                  by  such  Selling  Shareholder  and  is a  valid  and  binding
                  agreement of such Selling Shareholder; and

                           (v) delivery of the Shares to be sold by each Selling
                  Shareholder pursuant to this Agreement will pass title to such
                  Shares  free and  clear  of any  security  interests,  claims,
                  liens, equities and other encumbrances.

                  (h) on the effective  date of the  Registration  Statement and
         the effective date of the most recently filed post-effective  amendment
         to the Registration  Statement and also on the Closing Date, Deloitte &
         Touche LLP shall have furnished to the  Representative  letters,  dated
         the  respective  dates  of  delivery  thereof,  in form  and  substance
         satisfactory   to  the   Representative,   containing   statements  and
         information of the type  customarily  included in accountants  "comfort
         letters" to underwriters  with respect to the financial  statements and
         certain financial information  contained in the Registration  Statement
         and the Prospectus;

                  (i) the  Representative  shall have  received on and as of the
         Closing  Date an  opinion  of Davis  Polk &  Wardwell,  counsel  to the
         Underwriters,   with  respect  to  the  Registration   Statement,   the
         Prospectus  and  other  related  matters  as  the   Representative  may
         reasonably  request,  and such counsel  shall have received such papers
         and  information as they may reasonably  request to enable them to pass
         upon such matters;


                                       19

<PAGE>



                  (j) the Shares  shall have been  approved  for [listing on the
         New York Stock Exchange, Inc./Qouatation on the Nasdaq National Market]
         subject to official notice of issuance;

                  (k) on or prior to the  Closing  Date the  Company  shall have
         furnished  to  the  Representatives   such  further   certificates  and
         documents as the Representatives shall reasonably request.

The several  obligations of the Underwriters to purchase Option Shares hereunder
are subject to  satisfaction of the conditions set forth in paragraphs (a) - (k)
above on and as of the  Additional  Closing  Date,  except that the  certificate
called for by paragraph (e) above, the opinions called for by paragraphs (f) and
(i) above and the third letter  called for by paragraph (g) above shall be dated
the Additional Closing Date.

                  8. The Company  agrees to  indemnify  and hold  harmless  each
Underwriter  and each person,  if any, who controls any  Underwriter  within the
meaning of either Section 15 of the Securities Act or Section 20 of the Exchange
Act,  from and  against  any and all losses,  claims,  damages  and  liabilities
(including,  without  limitation the legal fees and other  expenses  incurred in
connection with any suit,  action or proceeding or any claim asserted) caused by
any untrue statement or alleged untrue statement of a material fact contained in
the Registration  Statement or the Prospectus (as amended or supplemented if the
Company shall have  furnished  any  amendments  or  supplements  thereto) or any
preliminary  prospectus,  or caused by any omission or alleged omission to state
therein a material fact  required to be stated  therein or necessary to make the
statements  therein  not  misleading,  except  insofar as such  losses,  claims,
damages or liabilities are caused by any untrue statement or omission or alleged
untrue  statement  or omission  made in  reliance  upon and in  conformity  with
information  relating to any Underwriter  furnished to the Company in writing by
such Underwriter through the Representative expressly for use therein;  provided
that the foregoing  indemnity with respect to any preliminary  prospectus  shall
not inure to the  benefit of any  Underwriter  (or to the  benefit of any person
controlling  such  Underwriter)  from whom the person asserting any such losses,
claims,  damages or  liabilities  purchased  Shares if such untrue  statement or
omission  or alleged  untrue  statement  or  omission  made in such  preliminary
prospectus  is  eliminated  or  remedied  in  the   Prospectus  (as  amended  or
supplemented  if the Company shall have  furnished any amendments or supplements
thereto) and, if required by law, a copy of the Prospectus (as so amended or


                                       20

<PAGE>



supplemented)  shall not have been  furnished  to such person at or prior to the
written confirmation of the sale of such Shares to such person.

                  Each Selling Shareholder agrees, severally and not jointly, to
indemnify and hold harmless the Underwriters,  the Company,  its directors,  its
officers  who sign the  Registration  Statement  and each  person,  if any,  who
controls the Company or any Underwriter  within the meaning of either Section 15
of the  Securities  Act or Section 20 of the Exchange  Act, from and against any
and all losses, claims, damages and liabilities (including,  without limitation,
any legal or other expenses  reasonably incurred in connection with defending or
investigating  any such  action or  claim)  caused by any  untrue  statement  or
alleged  untrue  statement  of a material  fact  contained  in the  Registration
Statement or any amendment thereof, any preliminary prospectus or the Prospectus
(as amended or  supplemented  if the Company shall have furnished any amendments
or supplements  thereto), or caused by any omission or alleged omission to state
therein a material fact  required to be stated  therein or necessary to make the
statements  therein  not  misleading,  but only with  reference  to  information
relating to such  Selling  Shareholder  furnished  in writing by or on behalf of
such Selling Shareholder  expressly for use in the Registration  Statement,  any
preliminary prospectus, the Prospectus or any amendments or supplements thereto.

                  Each  Underwriter  agrees,   severally  and  not  jointly,  to
indemnify and hold harmless the Company, the Selling Shareholders, the directors
of the Company, the officers of the Company who sign the Registration  Statement
and each person who controls the Company or any Selling  Shareholder  within the
meaning of Section 15 of the  Securities Act and Section 20 of the Exchange Act,
to the  same  extent  as the  foregoing  indemnity  from  the  Company  to  each
Underwriter, but only with reference to information relating to such Underwriter
furnished   to  the  Company  in  writing  by  such   Underwriter   through  the
Representatives expressly for use in the Registration Statement, the Prospectus,
any amendment or supplement thereto, or any preliminary prospectus.

                  If any suit, action, proceeding (including any governmental or
regulatory investigation),  claim or demand shall be brought or asserted against
any person in respect of which indemnity may be sought pursuant to either of the
three  preceding  paragraphs,  such  person  (the  "Indemnified  Person")  shall
promptly  notify the  person  against  whom such  indemnity  may be sought  (the
"Indemnifying  Person") in writing, and the Indemnifying Person, upon request of
the



                                       21

<PAGE>



Indemnified  Person,  shall  retain  counsel  reasonably   satisfactory  to  the
Indemnified  Person to  represent  the  Indemnified  Person  and any  others the
Indemnifying  Person may designate in such proceeding and shall pay the fees and
expenses of such counsel related to such proceeding. In any such proceeding, any
Indemnified Person shall have the right to retain its own counsel,  but the fees
and expenses of such counsel shall be at the expense of such Indemnified  Person
unless  (i) the  Indemnifying  Person  and the  Indemnified  Person  shall  have
mutually agreed to the contrary,  (ii) the Indemnifying Person has failed within
a reasonable time to retain counsel  reasonably  satisfactory to the Indemnified
Person  or (iii)  the  named  parties  in any  such  proceeding  (including  any
impleaded  parties)  include both the  Indemnifying  Person and the  Indemnified
Person  and  representation  of  both  parties  by the  same  counsel  would  be
inappropriate due to actual or potential differing interests between them. It is
understood  that the  Indemnifying  Person  shall not,  in  connection  with any
proceeding  or related  proceeding in the same  jurisdiction,  be liable for the
fees and  expenses  of more than one  separate  firm (in  addition  to any local
counsel) for all Indemnified  Persons, and that all such fees and expenses shall
be reimbursed as they are incurred.  Any such separate firm for the Underwriters
and such control persons of Underwriters  shall be designated in writing by J.P.
Morgan  Securities  Inc. Any such separate firm for the Company,  its directors,
its officers who sign the Registration Statement and such control persons of the
Company shall be  designated  in writing by the Company.  Any such separate firm
for  the  Selling   Shareholders  and  such   controlling   persons  of  Selling
Shareholders,   shall  be   designated  in  writing  by  the  persons  named  as
attorney-in-fact of the Selling  Shareholders under the Powers of Attorney.  The
Indemnifying  Person shall not be liable for any  settlement  of any  proceeding
effected  without its written  consent,  but if settled  with such consent or if
there be a final judgment for the plaintiff,  the Indemnifying  Person agrees to
indemnify  any  Indemnified  Person from and against  any loss or  liability  by
reason of such settlement or judgment.  Notwithstanding  the foregoing sentence,
if at any time an Indemnified Person shall have requested an Indemnifying Person
to  reimburse  the  Indemnified  Person  for fees and  expenses  of  counsel  as
contemplated by the third sentence of this paragraph,  the  Indemnifying  Person
agrees that it shall be liable for any  settlement  of any  proceeding  effected
without its written  consent if (i) such settlement is entered into more than 30
days after receipt by such Indemnifying Person of the aforesaid request and (ii)
such  Indemnifying  Person shall not have reimbursed the  Indemnified  Person in
accordance with such request prior to the date of such settlement. No



                                       22

<PAGE>



Indemnifying Person shall,  without the prior written consent of the Indemnified
Person, effect any settlement of any pending or threatened proceeding in respect
of which  any  Indemnified  Person is or could  have been a party and  indemnity
could  have been  sought  hereunder  by such  Indemnified  Person,  unless  such
settlement includes an unconditional release of such Indemnified Person from all
liability on claims that are the subject matter of such proceeding.

                  If the  indemnification  provided  for in the  first and third
paragraphs of this Section 8 is unavailable to an Indemnified  Person in respect
of any losses,  claims,  damages or liabilities  referred to therein,  then each
Indemnifying  Person  under  such  paragraph,   in  lieu  of  indemnifying  such
Indemnified Person thereunder, shall contribute to the amount paid or payable by
such  Indemnified  Person  as a  result  of  such  losses,  claims,  damages  or
liabilities  (i) in such  proportion as is  appropriate  to reflect the relative
benefits received by the indemnifying  person or persons on the one hand and the
Underwriters  on the other hand from the  offering  of the Shares or (ii) if the
allocation  provided by clause (i) above is not permitted by applicable  law, in
such  proportion  as is  appropriate  to reflect not only the relative  benefits
referred to in clause (i) above but also the relative fault of the  indemnifying
person or persons on the one hand and the  indemnified  person or persons on the
other in  connection  with the  statements  or omissions  that  resulted in such
losses, claims, damages or liabilities,  as well as any other relevant equitable
considerations.  The relative  benefits  received by the Sellers on the one hand
and the  Underwriters  on the other shall be deemed to be in the same respective
proportions  as the  net  proceeds  from  the  offering  of the  Shares  (before
deducting expenses) received by each Seller and the total underwriting discounts
and the commissions  received by the Underwriters,  in each case as set forth in
the table on the cover of the Prospectus,  bear to the aggregate public offering
price of the Shares.  The relative  fault of the Sellers on the one hand and the
Underwriters  on the other shall be  determined  by  reference  to,  among other
things, whether the untrue or alleged untrue statement of a material fact or the
omission or alleged  omission to state a material  fact  relates to  information
supplied by the Sellers or by the Underwriters and the parties' relative intent,
knowledge,  access to  information  and  opportunity  to correct or prevent such
statement or omission.

                  The  Sellers and the  Underwriters  agree that it would not be
just and equitable if contribution pursuant to this Section 8 were determined by
pro rata allocation (even


                                       23

<PAGE>



if the Underwriters were treated as one entity for such purpose) or by any other
method of allocation that does not take account of the equitable  considerations
referred to in the immediately  preceding paragraph.  The amount paid or payable
by an  Indemnified  Person  as a  result  of the  losses,  claims,  damages  and
liabilities  referred to in the immediately  preceding paragraph shall be deemed
to  include,  subject to the  limitations  set forth  above,  any legal or other
expenses incurred by such Indemnified Person in connection with investigating or
defending  any such  action or claim.  Notwithstanding  the  provisions  of this
Section 8, in no event shall an Underwriter be required to contribute any amount
in  excess  of the  amount  by  which  the  total  price  at  which  the  Shares
underwritten  by it and  distributed  to the public  were  offered to the public
exceeds the amount of any  damages  that such  Underwriter  has  otherwise  been
required to pay by reason of such untrue or alleged untrue statement or omission
or alleged omission.  No person guilty of fraudulent  misrepresentation  (within
the  meaning of  Section  11(f) of the  Securities  Act)  shall be  entitled  to
contribution   from  any  person   who  was  not   guilty  of  such   fraudulent
misrepresentation.  The Underwriters' obligations to contribute pursuant to this
Section 8 are several in proportion to the respective number of Shares set forth
opposite their names in Schedule I hereto, and not joint.

                  The indemnity and  contribution  agreements  contained in this
Section 8 are in addition to any liability  which the  Indemnifying  Persons may
otherwise have to the Indemnified Persons referred to above.

                  The indemnity and  contribution  agreements  contained in this
Section 8 and the  representations and warranties of the Company and the Selling
Shareholders  set forth in this  Agreement  shall remain  operative  and in full
force and effect  regardless of (i) any termination of this Agreement,  (ii) any
investigation  made by or on behalf of any Underwriter or by or on behalf of any
Selling  Shareholder or any person  controlling  any Selling  Shareholder or any
person  controlling  any  Underwriter  or by or on  behalf of the  Company,  its
officers or  directors  or any other  person  controlling  the Company and (iii)
acceptance of and payment for any of the Shares.

                  9. Notwithstanding  anything herein contained,  this Agreement
(or the  obligations  of the  several  Underwriters  with  respect to the Option
Shares) may be terminated in the absolute discretion of the Representatives,  by
notice  given to the  Company,  if after  the  execution  and  delivery  of this
Agreement and prior to


                                       24

<PAGE>



the Closing Date or, in the case of the Option  Shares,  prior to the Additional
Closing  Date) (i) trading  generally  shall have been  suspended or  materially
limited on or by, as the case may be, any of the New York  Stock  Exchange,  the
American Stock Exchange,  the National Association of Securities Dealers,  Inc.,
the Chicago  Board  Options  Exchange,  the Chicago  Mercantile  Exchange or the
Chicago Board of Trade,  (ii) trading of any  securities of or guaranteed by the
Company  shall have been  suspended on any  exchange or in any  over-the-counter
market,  (iii) a general moratorium on commercial banking activities in New York
shall have been  declared by either  Federal or New York State  authorities,  or
(iv) there shall have occurred any outbreak or escalation of  hostilities or any
change in financial  markets or any calamity or crisis that,  in the judgment of
the  Representative,  is material and adverse and which,  in the judgment of the
Representatives, makes it impracticable to market the Shares on the terms and in
the manner contemplated in the Prospectus.

                  10. This  Agreement  shall become  effective upon the later of
(x)  execution  and  delivery  hereof by the  parties  hereto and (y) release of
notification  of  the  effectiveness  of  the  Registration  Statement  (or,  if
applicable, any post-effective amendment) by the Commission.

                  If, on the Closing Date or the Additional Closing Date, as the
case  may be,  any  one or more of the  Underwriters  shall  fail or  refuse  to
purchase Shares which it or they have agreed to purchase hereunder on such date,
and the  aggregate  number  of  Shares  which  such  defaulting  Underwriter  or
Underwriters agreed but failed or refused to purchase is not more than one-tenth
of the  aggregate  number of  Shares to be  purchased  on such  date,  the other
Underwriters shall be obligated  severally in the proportions that the number of
Shares set forth opposite their  respective  names in Schedule I hereto bears to
the aggregate number of Underwritten  Shares set forth opposite the names of all
such  non-defaulting   Underwriters,   or  in  such  other  proportions  as  the
Representatives  may  specify,  to  purchase  the Shares  which such  defaulting
Underwriter  or  Underwriters  agreed but failed or refused to  purchase on such
date;  provided that in no event shall the number of Shares that any Underwriter
has agreed to  purchase  pursuant  to Section 1 be  increased  pursuant  to this
Section 10 by an amount in excess of one-ninth of such number of Shares  without
the  written  consent  of  such  Underwriter.  If,  on the  Closing  Date or the
Additional  Closing Date, as the case may be, any  Underwriter  or  Underwriters
shall fail or refuse to purchase Shares which it or they have agreed to purchase
hereunder on such date, and the number of Shares with respect to which


                                       25

<PAGE>



such default occurs is more than one-tenth of the aggregate  number of Shares to
be purchased on such date, and arrangements  satisfactory to the Representative,
the Company and the Selling Shareholders for the purchase of such Shares are not
made within 36 hours after such default,  this Agreement (or the  obligations of
the several  Underwriters  to purchase  the Option  Shares,  as the case may be)
shall terminate without liability on the part of any non-defaulting Underwriter,
the  Company  or  the  Selling  Shareholders.   In  any  such  case  either  the
Representative  or the  relevant  Sellers  shall have the right to postpone  the
Closing  Date (or,  in the case of the Option  Shares,  the  Additional  Closing
Date),  but in no event for longer than seven days,  in order that the  required
changes,  if any, in the Registration  Statement and in the Prospectus or in any
other  documents or  arrangements  may be effected.  Any action taken under this
paragraph shall not relieve any defaulting Underwriter from liability in respect
of any default of such Underwriter under this Agreement.

                  11. If this Agreement shall be terminated by the Underwriters,
or any of them,  because of any  failure or refusal on the part of any Seller to
comply with the terms or to fulfill any of the conditions of this Agreement,  or
if for any reason any Seller  shall be unable to perform its  obligations  under
this  Agreement or any  condition  of the  Underwriters'  obligations  cannot be
fulfilled, the Company agrees to reimburse the Underwriters or such Underwriters
as have so terminated this Agreement with respect to themselves,  severally, for
all  out-of-pocket  expenses  (including the fees and expenses of their counsel)
reasonably incurred by the Underwriters in connection with this Agreement or the
offering contemplated hereunder.

                  12.  This  Agreement  shall  inure  to the  benefit  of and be
binding  upon the  Company,  the Selling  Shareholders,  the  Underwriters,  any
controlling  persons  referred  to herein and their  respective  successors  and
assigns.  Nothing  expressed or mentioned in this Agreement is intended or shall
be  construed  to give  any  other  person,  firm or  corporation  any  legal or
equitable  right,  remedy or claim under or in respect of this  Agreement or any
provision herein contained. No purchaser of Shares from any Underwriter shall be
deemed to be a successor by reason merely of such purchase.

                  13. Any action by the  Underwriters  hereunder may be taken by
J.P. Morgan Securities Inc. on behalf of the  Underwriters,  and any such action
taken by J.P.  Morgan  Securities  shall be binding upon the  Underwriters.  All
notices and other communications hereunder shall be in



                                       26
<PAGE>



writing and shall be deemed to have been duly given if mailed or  transmitted by
any standard form of  telecommunication.  Notices to the  Underwriters  shall be
given to the Representative c/o J.P. Morgan Securities Inc., 60 Wall Street, New
York, New York 10260,  Attention:  Syndicate Department.  Notices to the Company
shall be given to it at Pluma,  Inc., 801 Fieldcrest  Road, Eden, North Carolina
27288, Attention: Nancy B. Barksdale.

                  14.  This  Agreement  may be signed in  counterparts,  each of
which shall be an original and all of which  together  shall  constitute one and
the same  instrument.  This  Agreement  shall be  governed by and  construed  in
accordance with the laws of the State of New York,  without giving effect to the
conflicts of laws provisions thereof.



                                       27

<PAGE>




                  If the  foregoing is in  accordance  with your  understanding,
please sign and return four counterparts hereof.



                                                 Very truly yours,

                                                 PLUMA INC.



                                                 By:_________________________
                                                    Title:



                                                 The Selling Shareholders named
                                                 in Schedule II hereto, acting
                                                 severally


                                                 By:___________________________
                                                      Name:
                                                      Attorney-in-fact


Accepted: _______________, 1996

J.P. Morgan Securities Inc.
Interstate/Johnson Lane Corporation
Wheat, First Securities, Inc.
  Acting  severally on behalf of itself
  and the several  Underwriters  listed in
  Schedule I hereto.


By:  J.P. Morgan Securities Inc.
           Acting on behalf of itself and
           the several Underwriters listed
           in Schedule I hereto.


         By:______________________________
            Title:


                                       28

<PAGE>









                                                        SCHEDULE I



                                                Number of Shares
Underwriter                                     To Be Purchased


J.P. Morgan Securities Inc. . . . . .

Interstate/Johnson Lane
  Corporation . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wheat, First Securities, Inc.  . . . .


                                                ----------------

                    Total: . . . . . .





<PAGE>








                                                        SCHEDULE II



                                                       Number of Shares
Selling Shareholder                                    To Be Sold




                                                       ----------------

                           Total: . . . . . . . .





<PAGE>







Pluma, Inc.
January 30, 1997
Page 1

                      Allman Spry Leggett & Crumpler, P.A.
                        ATTORNEYS AND COUNSELLORS AT LAW

                         380 Knollwood Street, Suite 700
                    Winston-Salem, North Carolina 27103-4152


Telephone                                              Mailing Address
(910) 722-2300                                         P.O. Drawer 5129
                                                       Zip Code 27113-5129
Facsimile
(910) 721-0414

                                January 30, 1997


Pluma, Inc.
801 Fieldcrest Road
Eden, NC 27288

Ladies and Gentlemen:

     This opinion is furnished in connection with the  registration  pursuant to
the  Securities  Act of 1933, as amended (the  "Securities  Act"),  of 3,542,000
shares (the  "Shares") of common stock, no par value, of Pluma, Inc., a North
Carolina corporation (the "Company").

     In connection with rendering this opinion, we have examined the Articles of
Incorporation  and Bylaws of the Company,  each as amended to date; such records
of  the  corporate   proceedings  of  the  Company  as  we  deemed  material;  a
registration  statement  on Form S-1 under the  Securities  Act  relating to the
Shares, File No. 333-18755 (as amended, the "Registration  Statement"),  and the
prospectus  contained therein (the  "Prospectus"),  and such other certificates,
receipts,  records and documents as we considered  necessary for the purposes of
this opinion.

     We are attorneys  admitted to practice in the State of North  Carolina.  We
express no opinion  concerning the laws of any jurisdiction  other than the laws
of the United States of America and the State of North Carolina.


<PAGE>

Pluma, Inc.
January 30, 1997
Page 2

     Based upon the  foregoing,  we are of the opinion that when the Shares have
been issued and paid for in  accordance  with the terms of the  Prospectus,  the
Shares will be legally issued, fully paid and nonassessable shares.

     The foregoing assumes that all requisite steps will be taken to comply with
the requirements of the Securities Act and applicable  requirements of the state
laws regulating the offer and sale of securities.

     We hereby  consent  to the  filing of this  opinion  as an  exhibit  to the
Registration Statement and to the reference to our firm under the caption "Legal
Matters" in the Prospectus.

                                        Very truly yours,

                                        ALLMAN SPRY LEGGETT & CRUMPLER, P.A.





                                       By:
                                           -----------------------------------
                                           Terry Crumpler






                                   PLUMA, INC.

                           SENIOR EXECUTIVE BONUS PLAN

I.       ADMINISTRATION
         The Company's Senior Executive Bonus Plan ("Bonus Plan") shall be
         administered by the Company's Compensation Committee, and may be
         altered or amended as agreed to by the members of the Compensation
         Committee.

II.      THE BONUS PLAN
         A.       TIERS/PARTICIPANTS
                  The Bonus Plan shall consist of at least two tiers and more
                  tiers may be added at the discretion of the Compensation
                  Committee. Participants are selected and placed in the
                  appropriate tier at the discretion of the Compensation
                  Committee. Selection is based upon the level of
                  responsibility, past performance with the Company and possible
                  impact on Company profitability as a result of the
                  participant's position with Company.

         B.       THE BONUS POOL
                  The "Bonus Pool" available for distribution is determined by
                  reference to the Company's fiscal year end pre-tax income
                  before bonuses are paid under the Bonus Plan, as adjusted by
                  adding back to such pre-tax income the Participant's base
                  salary paid for the year for which bonuses are calculated. The
                  Bonus Pool is equal to the amount of the Compensation Pool
                  less the sum of all base salaries paid to the Participants for
                  the year in which bonuses are calculated.

                  The Compensation Committee allocates the Bonus Pool between
                  the tiers in a discretionary manner, with consideration given
                  to the number of Participants in each tier as determined in
                  the sole discretion of the Compensation Committee. In
                  addition, the Compensation Committee and the Board may grant
                  to the tier 1 Participants an extraordinary bonus ("Bonus
                  Percentage") equal to a percentage (as determined by the
                  Compensation Committee) of any annual pre-tax profits earned
                  in excess of a pre-determined pre-tax profit level (the
                  "Profit Target"). The Bonus Percentage shall be determined
                  annually at the discretion of the Compensation Committee. The
                  Profit Target is determined in the early part of each fiscal
                  year at the discretion of the Compensation Committee.

         C.       EXTRAORDINARY ITEMS
                  The Compensation Committee is allowed discretion to consider
                  or disregard extraordinary items, usually of a one-time
                  nature, that might either increase or decrease the amount of
                  the Compensation Pool.






                                   PLUMA, INC.

                              SALES INCENTIVE PLAN
I.       ADMINISTRATION
         The Company's Compensation Committee shall administer the Company's
         Sales Incentive Plan which is designed to create incentive for the
         Company's sales staff to increase customer sales.

II.      THE INCENTIVE PLAN
         Each year, the Company's Compensation Committee will establish a base
         level of annual sales volume (the "Sales Threshold") upon which the
         incentive sales bonus is calculated. At each fiscal year end, the
         Company subtracts the Sales Threshold from the Company's actual total
         nets sales for such year. This difference (the "Bonus Base") is the
         base amount upon which bonuses are determined for the Company's
         salespeople. In the event the Company's actual net sales for a fiscal
         year exceed the Sales Threshold, then each Company salesperson is
         entitled to the payment of a bonus determined by multiplying his or her
         base salary by a fraction, the numerator of which is the Bonus Base and
         the dominator of which is the Sales Threshold. The Sales Threshold is
         determined annually by the Company's Board of Directors after a
         recommendation from its Compensation Committee.







                             PHILPOTT, BALL & COMPANY
                                INVESTMENT BANKERS

212 South Tryon Street, Suite 1050                  Telephone: (704) 358-8094
Charlotte, North Carolina 28281                     Facsimile: (704) 358-0021



                               December 6, 1996
                            Personal & Confidential

Mr. R. Duke Ferrell, Jr.
President & Chief Executive Officer
Pluma, Inc.
801 W. Fieldcrest Rd.
Eden, NC 27288


Dear Duke:

Philpott, Ball & Company ("PB&C" or "we") has enjoyed working with Pluma, Inc.
("Pluma" or the "Company") during the last five years. This letter is a 
proposal for PB&C to continue to act as a financial advisor for Pluma during
1997.


The following is a list of the services that we would propose to perform 
next year for Pluma:


ADVICE AND ASSISTANCE ON INITIAL PUBLIC OFFERING

PB&C will advise and assist you in conducting Pluma's initial public offering.
We will assist your management team in dealing with all phases of the offering
process including:

     1. Preparing "road show" presentations and assisting with scheduling,
     2. Coordinating efforts with managing underwriters and negotiating with
        them when necessary,
     3. Dealing with directors and selling shareholders, particularly on 
        issues related to "who gets to sell" and "how much to sell",
     4. Size and pricing negotiations,
     5. "Coaching" management on dealing with both institutional and retail 
        investors as well as the press and other parties who may take an
        interest in the offering,
     6. Advice on issues related to terminating the Shareholder's Agreement,
        and 
     7. Assisting management with the "logistics" of scheduling meetings of 
        the underwriting group and other key meetings.

<PAGE>

PLUMA ENGAGEMENT FOR 1997
December 6, 1996
Page 2

STRATEGIC PLANNING TO EXPAND AND IMPROVE PLUMA'S POSITION IN THE MARKETPLACE

PB&C proposes to conduct systematic research into potential future targets for 
acquisition by Pluma. We would identify companies, subsidiaries, divisions and 
facilities which might prove to be attractive additions to Pluma's existing
business or give Pluma entries into new markets. We would perform these 
services in conjunction with the Strategic Planning Committee and would assist
Pluma in making acquisitions when they arise.

EXECUTIVE COMPENSATION AND BENEFITS

PB&C will assist Pluma's Compensation Committee by providing the Committee with 
advice and industry data relating to base salaries, bonuses and benefits for 
textile and apparel executives. We will also work with you and the Compensation
Committee on the mirror plan and on additional retirement benefits for Pluma's 
executives and directors.

EMPLOYEE BENEFITS AND STOCK OWNERSHIP

We will continue to assist you in improving the employee benefits in Pluma 
including ownership for employees.

VALUATIONS

If necessary, we will value the common stock of Pluma in 1997 to prepare for
shareholder exchanges if the IPO is delayed, or if valuations are needed for 
other reasons.

EXCHANGES OF SHARES BETWEEN SHAREHOLDERS

If the IPO is delayed, PB&C will assist Pluma in conducting shareholder 
exchanges including advising the board, assisting management and counsel in 
drafting disclosure documents, polling shareholders and using our exchange 
model to facilitate rapid calculation of the exchange results.

ACQUISITION INQUIRIES

We will investigate acquisition inquiries for the Company in 1996.

FINANCIAL FORECASTING MODELS

We will assist you in building a new monthly projection model.

ASSISTANCE IN RAISING CAPITAL IF IPO IS DELAYED

We will advise and assist you in raising additional debt and private equity in 
1997, if necessary.

<PAGE>

PLUMA ENGAGEMENT FOR 1997
December 6, 1996
Page 3

GENERAL ADVICE AND CONSULTING FOR EXECUTIVES, THE BOARD, AND SHAREHOLDERS

We will continue to provide you with general advice related to financial, 
personnel and other matters which will have an impact on shareholder value.

PROPOSED FEES TO BE PAID BY PLUMA TO PB&C IN 1997

We will perform all of the advisory services listed above for the retainer fees
of $10,000 per month. In addition, Pluma will pay PB&C "success" fees 
associated with long-term capital (equity or debt) raised by Pluma in 1997. The
amount of such "success" fees will be negotiated once Pluma and PB&C have 
decided upon the type and amount of capital to be raised.

In addition to these fees, we would ask that you pay our out-of-pocket expenses 
incurred due to the engagement. These are normally related to travel and 
communications (mailings, faxes, etc.) and they should be no greater than those
you incurred in 1996. All retainer fees and reimbursable expenses will be due 
and payable as of the last day of each month following the date of this 
agreement. Fees for capital financing will be due at the closing of such 
transactions.

In order to conduct this assignment in an expedient manner, we would ask that 
you agree that Pluma will freely and promptly provide information regarding the 
Company to PB&C. You and Pluma understand that PB&C will use and rely on 
information furnished by or on behalf of the Company without investigation, 
in providing service or advice.

During the period of this engagement, the Company agrees that PB&C will be 
acting as its exclusive advisors with respect to a sale of all or any part of 
the Company. If you or any other employee of Pluma are contacted by a party 
who expresses interest in acquiring or investing in Pluma or any assets 
controlled by Pluma, the Company agrees to immediately notify PB&C of
such contact. Pluma further agrees to utilize PB&C in any discussions or 
negotiations with such contacts. If such a contact attempts to purchase 
all or any part of Pluma, Pluma agrees that it will retain PB&C to advise it 
in negotiations with the contact, and PB&C's compensation for such advice will 
be covered under a separate agreement negotiated in good faith with Pluma.

Since we will be acting on your behalf in connection with this matter, it 
is agreed that the Company will indemnify and hold PB&C (including any of 
PB&C's officers, directors, employees, or controlling or affiliated persons) 
harmless from and against any losses, damages, liabilities and 
claims arising out of PB&C's role in this work. In addition, the Company will 
reimburse PB&C for legal or other expenses reasonably incurred in 
connection with the defense of such losses, damages, liabilities, or claims are
determined to constitute the negligence or intentional wrongdoing by PB&C. 
This indemnification will survive the payment of any fees to PB&C and the 
termination of this agreement.

<PAGE>

PLUMA ENGAGEMENT FOR 1997
December 6, 1996
Page 4

Duke, if these terms are satisfactory to you, please indicate your acceptance 
of them by signing below and returning an executed copy to us.

Sincerely,

PHILPOTT, BALL & COMPANY

By: /s/ J. Robert Philpott, Jr.
   -----------------------------
   J. Robert Philpott, Jr.

Agreed and accepted this ______ day of ______________, 1996.



    PLUMA, INC.

By:_________________________________
   R. Duke Ferrell, Jr.
   President and Chief Executive Officer







<PAGE>
                                                                    EXHIBIT 23.1
 
                         INDEPENDENT AUDITORS' CONSENT
 
We consent to the use in this Amendment No. 1 to Registration Statement No.
333-18755 of Pluma, Inc. of our report dated January 28, 1997 appearing in the
Prospectus, which is a part of such Registration Statement, and to the reference
to us under the heading "Experts" in such Prospectus.
 
DELOITTE & TOUCHE
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
 
February 5, 1997
 <PAGE>




© 2022 IncJournal is not affiliated with or endorsed by the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission